# Air compressor fittings and hose

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• posted on March 9, 2009, 12:37 pm
On Mon, 9 Mar 2009 08:12:29 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

Why would you plug your compressor into a lighting circuit?
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• posted on March 9, 2009, 3:05 pm
On Mon, 9 Mar 2009 08:12:29 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

When you find that mythical motor that puts out 1HP per 800w the world will beat a path to your door. About all you will ever get from a 120v@15a rated motor is ~1HP. Campbell Hausfeld et al got sued over those 5HP stickers they put on their 1HP compressors and the whole "class" got a free power tool.
http://www.lawcash.com/attorney/3392/campbell-hausfeld-devilbiss-air-power-ingersoll-rand-coleman-powermate-inc-lawsuit.asp
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• posted on March 10, 2009, 5:36 pm
On Mar 9, 8:05 am, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

748 watts happens to be 1 hp of electrical power.....of course motors are not 100% efficient at turning lectrical energy into mechanical work.
But even standard efficiency motors are in the 80%+ range with the new premeum units having higher than 90%
so 15amps @ 120v = 1800 watts ( 2.4 hp electrical)
factoring in 85% efficiency gives you ~2 hp
a 20amp circuit would give you 2.7 hp (at 85%) and nearly 3 hp at 91%
so those mythical motors (1 hp at 800 watts......93.5%) may not exist but some are pretty close
cheers Bob
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• posted on March 10, 2009, 7:18 pm
fftt wrote:

One horse power equals 746 watts hp(E) in electrical terms. I'm lysdexic too!
TDD
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• posted on March 11, 2009, 3:02 am
wrote:

I see a lot of 1HP motors in my travels and they usually have a FLA in the 12-13a range on the nameplate.
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• posted on March 11, 2009, 5:37 pm
On Mar 10, 8:02 pm, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

the 12-13a range on the nameplate. <<<<
I'm not disputing what you see but I'm pretty sure my calcs & info are correct; based on the definition of a hp(E) and typical motor efficiencies.
Maybe the motors have really bad efficiencies or the mfr's have them tagged "conservatively" ?
The current draw for even an "old school" / giant motor 1hp should be ~7.5 or so... I remember my dad having a GIANT 1hp rated motor from the 60's & the nameplate read 7.2 / 3.6
....12 to 13 amps seems way too high. JMHO
cheers Bob
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• posted on March 11, 2009, 11:34 pm
fftt wrote: ...

You're leaving out the other factor besides the efficiency (as well as assuming new motors of only 1 hp are really built to such high efficiency numbers) which is the power factor.
Spec's for a fairly typical Baldor (not inexpensive) general-purpose 1hp motor...
Catalog Number:     VL3509 Specification Number:     35C013X964 Horsepower: 1 Voltage: 115/230 Hertz: 60 Phase: 1 Full Load Amps: 11.8/5.9 Usable at 208 Volts:     6.1 RPM: 3450 Frame Size: 56C Service Factor:     1.25 ... Full Load Efficiency: 68 Power Factor: 82 ...
hp = 115*11.8*0.68*0.82/748 --> 1.0
This is a list price motor of \$400.
At least a couple in the same general classification were 0.65/0.65 efficience/power factor (at roughly \$300 price point).
One of their (very few at this low a hp) premium efficiency 1hp motors is
Catalog Number: EL3510 Specification Number: 35J385S758G1 Horsepower: 1 Voltage: 115/230 Hertz: 60 Phase: 1 Full Load Amps: 8.5/4.25 Usable at 208 Volts: N/A RPM: 1760 ... Full Load Efficiency:     82.5 Power Factor: 91
hp = 115*8.5*0.82.5*0.91/748 --> 0.98
That comes at a price, however -- \$643 catalog list
At a high-enough usage and for long enough, eventually one would make up the initial cost difference, but for intermittent use it would take quite a long time.
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• posted on March 11, 2009, 11:56 pm

Total bullshit. There is no allowance for windage, polar deviation, time zone variations, and whether the person using it is right or left handed.
Totally skewed and unacceptable.
Steve ;-)
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• posted on March 12, 2009, 4:14 am

Duane-
Thanks for the detailed response. Good comment about super high efficiency motors being expensive / rare in the 1 hp range.
Your analysis explains why the other post "I see a lot of 1HP motors in my travels and they usually have a FLA in the 12-13a range on the nameplate" is, in fact, correct.
I had no idea that typical 1hp motors have efficiencies & PF's that low. :(
I guess that's why SoCal Edison gives such good rebates on the purchase of high efficiency pool pump motors.
cheers Bob
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• posted on March 9, 2009, 2:56 am
MiamiCuse wrote:

Teflon tape is fine. Be sure when you buy fittings that you get the right type. There are more than one type in the stores, and they don't intermingle.

Bigger hose for bigger runs or higher volume uses. Mine is all 3/8". Better to use a larger long hose than an extension cord to reach distances.

How do you know it was never drained? How much water came out?
FWIW, I acquired an old compressor tank. I talked to the county "tank and boiler" inspector about getting it tested, and he volunteered to come by, and tested several spots on the tank with an untrasound thickness guage, and assured me the tank was fine.
Unless you know it was done recently, replace the compressor oil soon with oil specified in the manual.
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• posted on March 9, 2009, 3:18 am
In addition to the other replies, I think the only good use for the coiled hoses is over a workbench in an air-plumbed shop and over a tire changer in a garage. It'll hang retracted and out of the way overhead until needed.
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• posted on March 9, 2009, 4:30 am

I know it was never drained as I asked the previous owner, when he last drained the tank, and he looked at me and said he never did.
The compressor is oiless so there is no need to replace oil?
Here is the online reference for the unit.
http://www.chpower.com:88/chpdfs/manual04/622000_0308-web.pdf
Thanks,
MC
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• posted on March 9, 2009, 4:32 am
Joe wrote:

I've been using Marvel Mystery oil. How would you compare that to the above?

Make sure you use a heavy duty cord if you do that. Too small of a cord can fry the motor. I do fine with a large home-built powered reel with 150 feet of hose, and an occasional additional 50 feet (all 3/8"). But my compressor is a heavy 2 stage, and not movable and probably supplies significantly more pressure than the OP's.
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• posted on March 9, 2009, 10:14 am
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Marvel Mystery OIl "is" ATF.
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• posted on March 9, 2009, 6:17 pm
snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote:

Interesting. Can you relate where you got this info?
Dextron, or Mercon? (If I got thos right from memory)
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• posted on March 9, 2009, 6:19 pm
wrote:

I've known this for about 50 years. It's not really much of a secret.
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• posted on March 9, 2009, 5:41 pm

Can't really say. ATF and air tool oil are compounded to work with rubber O-rings, seals and such. MMO may well be as compatible since as an upper cylinder lube it shouldn't attack intake manifold seals.

You got me there, Bob. I should have considered that some young 'uns may not remember the laws of diminishing voltage with increasing length. Good point.
Joe