I have removed carpet from hardwood floor. I probably need to sand the floor first before painting. What kind of sand paper do I need? and after sanding what kind of filler do I have to use for the first paint. I am new in this, like to do it by myself. Would anyone please guide me step by step. Thanks
"blackcat" wrote in news:1160252009.007744.301660 @m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com:
Go to the this site with your web browser:
It will pretty much explain everything you have asked about........ :-)
Unless the floor is real bad, I would scrape it (use a big sander and an edger, somewhat coarse grade if necessary and then a finer grade) and finish it in varnish or polyurethane.
If you insist on painting it, ugh, it would depend on what the suface looks like now.
I did polyurethane a floor once and I followed the directions and consider them a mistake. It said after the first coat, if I did it in less than 24 or 12 or something hours, I could, I actually should wire brush the first coat (using a floor buffer and a "steel wool" pad iirc. I think I had the buffer already for some reason>) and then put on the second coat of polyurethane. The idea was to rough up, I think, the first coat so the sececond coat would stick. Unfortuanately, the first coat was not dry and little pieces of steel wool got imbedded in it. I don't know if I evewn noticed before I put on the second coat, but even if I had, I don't know any way to have rectified it in the time I allocated.
That web site posted by propman has some good info but a lot of bad info.. Go to home depot and rent their flat vibrating floor sander, just cannot make mistakes with it. Then use the sawdust from sanding mixed with carpenters glue for filler. Do counter sink the exposed nails and fill the holes. Then stain if desired and top off with water based poly usually four coats will give it a great look and long lasting finish. The water based poly dries in an hour and has no fumes. Muff
If you're going to go through all the trouble of sanding the thing down, (A) you shouldn't need filler, and (B) Why then are you painting, instead of using stain/varnish/shellac/polyurethane on a hardwood floor?
If you are going to paint, then (A) Use tinted primer, and (B) Do *NOT* believe the printer cure-time on the can. It will dry to the point where you can walk on it, yes, but it won't cure enough to stand up to hard use for about a month.
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