Hi there my Huckleberry friend!
Yeah, I "inherited" my sister's kids. She's the same sister whose house
I had been fixing up a while ago after her divorce. So, I have both
grandkids and her kids now, which is more kids at times than I had on my
own when I was young and peppy! (Now I wear knee pads just to work on a
Having her as a permanent guest is like having a second wife!
So, I'd better fix this thing, before *both* of them kill me
Ah, you remember that rattler, you do.
I wish I had a picture of her.
I have found a half dozen since, but now I know EXACTLY what to
I almost got bit by the pool, bending over to clean out the pool
pumps, but I catch them now and throw them about a mile away
from a five gallon bucket so that they can live, but somewhere
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 04:49:33 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:
There was absolutely no smell, although we used to blow up electrolytic
caps (the blue unipolar water tank type) by sticking them in outlets in
physics class and then waiting for some unsuspecting student to turn
the lights on in the Physics lab - and I don't remember any smell at
Anyway, the wife screamed when it happened, so I was there within a
minute, and I didn't detect any smell myself.
I'm very familiar with the electrolytic caps, and I am hopeful that
I'll see something burnt or blown inside when I open it up.
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 21:53:48 -0700, Charles Bishop wrote:
I don't remember if it was one switch or two.
I remember that the switch was just inside the doorway to the lab.
So, it was usually turned on by the first person who entered the lab.
The lab itself had these long countertops down the length of the lab.
At about eye level were the outlets.
The caps we stuck in the outlets and I "do" remember the labs being
dark when nobody was in there (even then, we were aware someone could
be hurt but we didn't worry about it because we associated the darkness
with nobody being in there). < yes, we were kids >
On Tue, 26 Apr 2016 09:40:42 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:
PS: Don't remind me the time we took nitric acid, as I recall, and
poured it into beakers containing iodine crystals and then dried it with
either ether or alcohol (as I recall) and then painted anything we wanted
e.g., the chemistry lab countertops, with the wet (stable) nitrogen
When that stuff dries, it's so unstable, even a fly landing on it
will cause it to explode (little purple cloud bursts sporadically
popping all over the place!).
< yes, we were kids once >
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
Can you open the door to the washer? If not it may be the door
interlock has failed. The sound could have been mechanical.
If the door interlock doesn't work properly then it is likely the
switch in the interlock is preventing the washer from working. I had a
similar experience when the door seal failed and squirted water into
the interlock switch.
You are correct in that the door is locked shut, under all conditions.
Whether the washer is plugged in or not, or if the start and cancel
are operated, the door won't open.
There is no water because the wash never started, so, it could
be the door interlock. Right now I'm searching for a model-specific
troubleshooting manual that can give me diagnostic codes.
The model number is WFW8410SW, Whirlpool duet Sport Washing Machine.
My last thread on this washing machine was more than two years ago,
which I found by going to http://tinyurl.com/alt-home-repair and
typing in the washer model number WFW8410SW.
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 18:53:58 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
There should be a manual release of the interlock. Look in the manual.
Once the interlock is manually disengaged the washer should try to
function normally. If the manual door unlock doesn't work even when
actuated then the mechanical linkage may be broken which is what the
noise may have been. Or it may be that the switch in the interlock has
corroded contacts like mine did from water squirting directly at the
switch from a leaky tub seal. On my washer I carefully took apart the
switch and cleaned the contacts inside. This fixed the washer
operation. I still had to replace the belt, tub pulley, and tub seal.
And my nice maple floor is warped under the washer from that damn seal
leak. GRRR. If it is the interlock and if your washer is anything
like my GE then you are in for some fun. If you enjoy fixing washers.
I was pissed off at GE for the lousy construction. Still am for that
There is a place you can slied a screwdriver or table knife to unlock the
door, if you need to.
The smarts are usually just one small PC board in the "console" at the back
of the washer. Often there are a few angled screws and the while thing
lifts straight up. (OK, looks like yours is a front load, so the
construction is a bit different.)
Most of the newer machines, and I'll bet all of the recent front-loads, use
3-phase motors and VFDs integrated into the controller board. I suspect the
load pop was something in the VFD blowing. You ought to pull the board and
inspect for burst components or traces burned off the board. If you find
any of that, it may be best to just replace the whole board (although it
will be expensive.)
We have one of the super-efficient top loaders, and I've done quite a bit of
maintenance on it.
Opening the door turned out to be easy.
In the WFW8410SW, Whirlpool duet Sport Washing Machine, there is a
special pull tab for opening the door.
Here is a picture of it in my washing machine:
Thanks for all your advice; I think it's the Motor Control Unit
(Whirlpool P/N 8540540).
If you skip to the bottom of this post, you'll see pictures of the
burned board. Do you concur based on the photos below that it's
the motor control board?
Why didn't the diagnostic test work then?
Anyway, after being totally unsuccessful at getting the Whirlpool duet
sport WFW8410SW washing machine to diagnose anything other than F28
(which is apparently the same "communications error" as the infamous F11
that youtubers all deplore), I finally just took the whole thing apart.
The en133200 F11.126/980-214 EMI Noise Filter near where the power
comes in seemed to be in good shape:
The main computer control board (Whirlpool PN W10063510) also seemed
to be in good shape on the bottom:
And on the top:
And even looking to the sides:
But, the motor control board had "something" wrong with it based
on what the plastic looked like:
I don't know what actually burned yet:
As the two capacitors seem to be intact:
Here's one of the capacitors at a side view:
And here's the other capacitor:
This shows a burned trace on the MMU:
And this shows a closeup of that:
As does this show burnt components or traces:
I don't think I can figure out, on my own, whether
it's repairable (I suspect it's not - do you?).
So, at this point, if you have good pointers for where to buy a
new Whirlpool motor control board (PN 8540540), I'd appreciate
more advice now that it's pretty sure that it's the MCU and not
From my experience with you guys, you *see things* I don't see when
I show you pictures (remember the garage door frame rebuild?).
So, I wanted you to have the *biggest* pictures I could supply, so
that you guys could zoom in.
As a courtesy to you all, who help me immensely, here are the shrunk
pictures, in the order of most important to least important.
This is the motor control board (PN 8540540, also PN W10163007) for
the Whirlpool Duet Sport WFW8410SW washing machine:
Notice that traces are burnt:
And that multiple surface-mount components have exploded:
There is even a "bullet hole" in one of the flat devices, which,
might not be a capacitor because it's labelled "R16" whereas the
other capacitors have a "C" designation as per typical convention:
I'm not sure if one of the huge electrolytic capacitors has blown
or not, because the top isn't flat, but I don't know if it was
flat to begin with:
The other huge electrolytic capacitor seems OK though:
The part number is clearly shown on this sticker (and a call to
the official Whirlpool parts center (866-698-2538) confirms that
the part number W10163007 and 8540540. (It's important to note
that the part number is not W10205342, which is sometimes listed
in the parts diagrams - that must be for a newer model?)
I'll repost the shrunk pictures of the CPU board and the EMI
filter separately, but they seem pristine so I don't think the
problem is there (unless they caused the problem in the first
Let me know if these pictures need to be shrunk further as I do
try to document everything not only so that you guys can help
me, but also so that others benefit from each action we take.
PS: Where is Jeff Liebermann when you need him!
On Sun, 01 May 2016 21:33:07 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:
We did have rains here in California, as Jeff Liebermann would know, where
the wind blew out the power in the mountains three time in one week.
So this was the *first* time the washer was started after the power
went out multiple times!
And you are correct that the part I thought was a capacitor is not
labelled with a C (as the rest of the caps are), but it's labelled
R16, so, it's not a cap.
The rest of the capacitors on the motor control board seem to be ok:
But certainly some of the surface-mount components have fried:
The good news is that the EMI suppression filter seems to be intact:
And the main computer control board (CCU) seems to be in good shape:
Nothing seems burnt on the CCU:
So, now my goal is to see where the best place to get a used or rebuilt
or new Motor Control Board (MCU) P/N W10163007 or PN 8540540 from:
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