Advice requested Whirlpool Duet Sport Washing Machine "popped"

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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 10:54:20 -0700, Oren wrote:

Hi there my Huckleberry friend!
Yeah, I "inherited" my sister's kids. She's the same sister whose house I had been fixing up a while ago after her divorce. So, I have both grandkids and her kids now, which is more kids at times than I had on my own when I was young and peppy! (Now I wear knee pads just to work on a washing machine!).
Having her as a permanent guest is like having a second wife!
So, I'd better fix this thing, before *both* of them kill me first!
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Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...

Instructions to the nearest laundromat would seem in order.
--
Tekkie

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Oren posted for all of us...

e

my

a

Just think, they could throw ALL the wash in one industrial size washer and save bux over the smaller units. Have a party and ice cream.
--
Tekkie

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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 13:54:30 -0700, Oren wrote:

Ah, you remember that rattler, you do. I wish I had a picture of her.
I have found a half dozen since, but now I know EXACTLY what to look for!
I almost got bit by the pool, bending over to clean out the pool pumps, but I catch them now and throw them about a mile away from a five gallon bucket so that they can live, but somewhere else.
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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 04:49:33 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:

There was absolutely no smell, although we used to blow up electrolytic caps (the blue unipolar water tank type) by sticking them in outlets in physics class and then waiting for some unsuspecting student to turn the lights on in the Physics lab - and I don't remember any smell at that time.
Anyway, the wife screamed when it happened, so I was there within a minute, and I didn't detect any smell myself.
I'm very familiar with the electrolytic caps, and I am hopeful that I'll see something burnt or blown inside when I open it up.
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Why were the outlets and the lights on the same circuit?
We had power strips on the work benches that were turned on when you came in to work in the morning. It would have worked ther.
--
charles

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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 21:53:48 -0700, Charles Bishop wrote:

I don't remember if it was one switch or two. I remember that the switch was just inside the doorway to the lab. So, it was usually turned on by the first person who entered the lab.
The lab itself had these long countertops down the length of the lab. At about eye level were the outlets. The caps we stuck in the outlets and I "do" remember the labs being dark when nobody was in there (even then, we were aware someone could be hurt but we didn't worry about it because we associated the darkness with nobody being in there). < yes, we were kids >
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On Tue, 26 Apr 2016 09:40:42 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

PS: Don't remind me the time we took nitric acid, as I recall, and poured it into beakers containing iodine crystals and then dried it with either ether or alcohol (as I recall) and then painted anything we wanted e.g., the chemistry lab countertops, with the wet (stable) nitrogen tri-iodide paste.
When that stuff dries, it's so unstable, even a fly landing on it will cause it to explode (little purple cloud bursts sporadically popping all over the place!).
< yes, we were kids once >
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says...

The recipe I used (and the only one I've heard of) uses ammonia as a source of nitrogen, not acid.
Mike.
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On Tue, 26 Apr 2016 14:56:42 +0100, MJC wrote:

I could be remembering it wrong as it was a few decades ago. It was chem lab, so, there was everything available.
We may have used the nitric acid with the cotton balls ...
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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico

Can you open the door to the washer? If not it may be the door interlock has failed. The sound could have been mechanical. If the door interlock doesn't work properly then it is likely the switch in the interlock is preventing the washer from working. I had a similar experience when the door seal failed and squirted water into the interlock switch. Eric
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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 10:28:12 -0700, etpm wrote:

You are correct in that the door is locked shut, under all conditions. Whether the washer is plugged in or not, or if the start and cancel are operated, the door won't open.
There is no water because the wash never started, so, it could be the door interlock. Right now I'm searching for a model-specific troubleshooting manual that can give me diagnostic codes.
The model number is WFW8410SW, Whirlpool duet Sport Washing Machine. My last thread on this washing machine was more than two years ago, which I found by going to http://tinyurl.com/alt-home-repair and typing in the washer model number WFW8410SW.
https://groups.google.com/forum /#!searchin/alt.home.repair/WFW8410SW|sort:relevance/alt.home.repair/3Q0hbYtmEJI/FsLs2j_8N58J
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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 18:53:58 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico

There should be a manual release of the interlock. Look in the manual. Once the interlock is manually disengaged the washer should try to function normally. If the manual door unlock doesn't work even when actuated then the mechanical linkage may be broken which is what the noise may have been. Or it may be that the switch in the interlock has corroded contacts like mine did from water squirting directly at the switch from a leaky tub seal. On my washer I carefully took apart the switch and cleaned the contacts inside. This fixed the washer operation. I still had to replace the belt, tub pulley, and tub seal. And my nice maple floor is warped under the washer from that damn seal leak. GRRR. If it is the interlock and if your washer is anything like my GE then you are in for some fun. If you enjoy fixing washers. I was pissed off at GE for the lousy construction. Still am for that matter. Eric
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Danny DiAmico wrote:

There is a place you can slied a screwdriver or table knife to unlock the door, if you need to.
The smarts are usually just one small PC board in the "console" at the back of the washer. Often there are a few angled screws and the while thing lifts straight up. (OK, looks like yours is a front load, so the construction is a bit different.)
Most of the newer machines, and I'll bet all of the recent front-loads, use 3-phase motors and VFDs integrated into the controller board. I suspect the load pop was something in the VFD blowing. You ought to pull the board and inspect for burst components or traces burned off the board. If you find any of that, it may be best to just replace the whole board (although it will be expensive.)
We have one of the super-efficient top loaders, and I've done quite a bit of maintenance on it.
Jon
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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 14:15:03 -0700, Oren wrote:

Hi Oren, Opening the door turned out to be easy.
In the WFW8410SW, Whirlpool duet Sport Washing Machine, there is a special pull tab for opening the door.
Here is a picture of it in my washing machine:
http://c74i.imgup.net/pulltab19b0a.gif
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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 19:28:49 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:

Yeah. It was nice the door opened so easily with that pull tab made expressly for that purpose.
http://c74i.imgup.net/pulltab19b0a.gif
All I needed to do was remove the lower panel, which contained this instruction manual, hidden inside:
http://v62i.imgup.net/instruccti9bd5.gif
Then, there was this drain plug:
http://t23i.imgup.net/drain27a1.gif
Which, when loosened, leaked very little water (1/4 inch or so):
http://t41i.imgup.net/leak5a84.gif
Unfortunately, the drain plug broke in half when I twisted it out:
http://b28i.imgup.net/broken_plu6163.gif
So I will have to deal with that problem later.
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Thanks for all your advice; I think it's the Motor Control Unit (Whirlpool P/N 8540540).
If you skip to the bottom of this post, you'll see pictures of the burned board. Do you concur based on the photos below that it's the motor control board?
Why didn't the diagnostic test work then?
Anyway, after being totally unsuccessful at getting the Whirlpool duet sport WFW8410SW washing machine to diagnose anything other than F28 (which is apparently the same "communications error" as the infamous F11 that youtubers all deplore), I finally just took the whole thing apart.
The en133200 F11.126/980-214 EMI Noise Filter near where the power comes in seemed to be in good shape:
http://i.cubeupload.com/9NouUy.gif
The main computer control board (Whirlpool PN W10063510) also seemed to be in good shape on the bottom:
http://i.cubeupload.com/3AJpZe.gif
And on the top:
http://i.cubeupload.com/vHyNQx.gif
And even looking to the sides:
http://i.cubeupload.com/s47l8r.gif
http://i.cubeupload.com/HXFRaC.gif
But, the motor control board had "something" wrong with it based on what the plastic looked like:
http://i.cubeupload.com/0hFNfc.gif
I don't know what actually burned yet:
http://i.cubeupload.com/NzBAH1.gif
As the two capacitors seem to be intact:
http://i.cubeupload.com/DLgrxP.gif
Here's one of the capacitors at a side view:
http://i.cubeupload.com/LHKttV.gif
And here's the other capacitor:
http://i.cubeupload.com/eySoyP.gif
This shows a burned trace on the MMU:
http://i.cubeupload.com/zTTwBd.gif
And this shows a closeup of that:
http://i.cubeupload.com/pg2KkN.gif
As does this show burnt components or traces:
http://i.cubeupload.com/hXFq4P.gif
I don't think I can figure out, on my own, whether it's repairable (I suspect it's not - do you?).
So, at this point, if you have good pointers for where to buy a new Whirlpool motor control board (PN 8540540), I'd appreciate more advice now that it's pretty sure that it's the MCU and not the CCU.
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On Sun, 01 May 2016 23:40:24 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

The part number seems to be either 8540540 or AKO 706497-05 based on this sticker on the Whirlpool WFW8410SW motor control board.
http://i.cubeupload.com/H3k19q.gif
I wonder what caused the board to blow up? Notice this capacitor has a hole blown in it, for example:
http://i.cubeupload.com/UQQp1S.gif
Do you think if I put in a new board, that it will also blow?
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On Sun, 01 May 2016 19:04:35 -0700, Oren wrote:

I'm sorry. From my experience with you guys, you *see things* I don't see when I show you pictures (remember the garage door frame rebuild?).
So, I wanted you to have the *biggest* pictures I could supply, so that you guys could zoom in.
As a courtesy to you all, who help me immensely, here are the shrunk pictures, in the order of most important to least important.
This is the motor control board (PN 8540540, also PN W10163007) for the Whirlpool Duet Sport WFW8410SW washing machine:
http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg
Notice that traces are burnt:
http://i.cubeupload.com/k7Hwkl.jpg
And that multiple surface-mount components have exploded:
http://i.cubeupload.com/YGQ9cM.jpg
There is even a "bullet hole" in one of the flat devices, which, might not be a capacitor because it's labelled "R16" whereas the other capacitors have a "C" designation as per typical convention:
http://i.cubeupload.com/RfF0Bv.jpg
I'm not sure if one of the huge electrolytic capacitors has blown or not, because the top isn't flat, but I don't know if it was flat to begin with:
http://i.cubeupload.com/vdL6Ut.jpg
The other huge electrolytic capacitor seems OK though:
http://i.cubeupload.com/tb3cu4.jpg
The part number is clearly shown on this sticker (and a call to the official Whirlpool parts center (866-698-2538) confirms that the part number W10163007 and 8540540. (It's important to note that the part number is not W10205342, which is sometimes listed in the parts diagrams - that must be for a newer model?)
http://i.cubeupload.com/ErHVuc.jpg
I'll repost the shrunk pictures of the CPU board and the EMI filter separately, but they seem pristine so I don't think the problem is there (unless they caused the problem in the first place).
Let me know if these pictures need to be shrunk further as I do try to document everything not only so that you guys can help me, but also so that others benefit from each action we take.
PS: Where is Jeff Liebermann when you need him!
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On Sun, 01 May 2016 21:33:07 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:

We did have rains here in California, as Jeff Liebermann would know, where the wind blew out the power in the mountains three time in one week.
So this was the *first* time the washer was started after the power went out multiple times!
And you are correct that the part I thought was a capacitor is not labelled with a C (as the rest of the caps are), but it's labelled R16, so, it's not a cap.
http://i.cubeupload.com/RfF0Bv.jpg
The rest of the capacitors on the motor control board seem to be ok:
http://i.cubeupload.com/TWiBYR.jpg
But certainly some of the surface-mount components have fried:
http://i.cubeupload.com/xRnjw9.jpg
The good news is that the EMI suppression filter seems to be intact:
http://i.cubeupload.com/ONiqvC.jpg
And the main computer control board (CCU) seems to be in good shape:
http://i.cubeupload.com/qABhEj.jpg
Nothing seems burnt on the CCU:
http://i.cubeupload.com/zBAmq5.jpg
So, now my goal is to see where the best place to get a used or rebuilt or new Motor Control Board (MCU) P/N W10163007 or PN 8540540 from:
http://i.cubeupload.com/ErHVuc.jpg
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