Advice on tricky tree felling?

Just for the record, major Snippage must have occurred because DerbyDad03 did not say any of the words quoted in the post above.

Reply to
DerbyDad03
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Depends on the lean, have you felled trees in the past? I have been successful each time at putting it down where I want. None were leaning the opposite direction.

Pruning like others have said on the side toward your structure and the lean will give some weight to the opposite side.

You realize that cable is dangerous... and rope would have to be rated for thousands of pounds... The cable can actually launch toward you if things go wrong, and the speed would make it impossible to get out of the way. Rope would be safer... but again, the weight of the tree exceeds most ropes...

__Only you can determine if this is doable... none of us has the vision to recommend what you are capable of__ and how dangerous the task is. Pics would help. With someone in the pic for scale.

Reply to
woodchucker

Depends on the lean, have you felled trees in the past? I have been successful each time at putting it down where I want. None were leaning the opposite direction.

Pruning like others have said on the side toward your structure and the lean will give some weight to the opposite side.

You realize that cable is dangerous... and rope would have to be rated for thousands of pounds... The cable can actually launch toward you if things go wrong, and the speed would make it impossible to get out of the way. Rope would be safer... but again, the weight of the tree exceeds most ropes...

__Only you can determine if this is doable... none of us has the vision to recommend what you are capable of__ and how dangerous the task is. Pics would help. With someone in the pic for scale.

Reply to
woodchucker

Harry's a logger now!!!! Oh Joy.

Jonsered reccomends a slightly downward felling cut. Every woodsman I've worked with uses a slightly downward felling cut - some aimed right at the apex of the directional notch, but more often aimed higher in the cut - and NEVER cut all the way through. You leave a narrow "hinge" to control the direction of fall. Wedges can be used in place of the rope or come-along, , or in conjunction with the rope.. Using a block and tackle, the "pull" rope should come back past the tree so the puller is not in the path of the falling tree. Using a straight pull you want to be sure the puller is WELL beyond the point where the top of the ree will land - out of range of flying projectiles as well.

We felled a LOT of large elms back in the sixties due to Dutch Elm Desease. I was a teanager on the farm back then and spent a LOT of time in the bush.Then we lost a lot of Birch due to Birch Borer - and now it's the Emerald Ash Borer doing it's thing - so the ash trees are coming down by the hundreds.

Then we get these freak storms that indiscriminately down anything in their path and we need to clean up after them - felling those that are too damaged to salvage after the cleanup.

Reply to
clare

The rope prevents it falling down hill. It won't fall uphillbecause of gravity. As it falls, the rope restrains it, the top of the tree describes a quarter circle and it lands "across the slope"

Reply to
harryagain

If I had my own remote location I'd do it myself. Just read up on it, and use good gear with enough strength. You're not supporting the entire weight of tree with the tensioning gear, just applying directional force. If you give it enough thought and still have some doubts, hire a pro. You didn't say how pitched the slope is, and whether it's possible for the cut tree to slide into and punch through your cabin. The rope/cable will be useless in stopping that if the base of the tree is close enough to the cabin, so keep that geometry in mind. An anchoring rope/cable near the base of the tree might be needed. But I'd go for. Then I'd get to talk about my lumberjackin' days over a few beers.

Reply to
Vic Smith

Now that part damn sure ain't rocket science!

** Lonesome Dove
Reply to
Lonesome Dove

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