I have to cut a chunk of sheetrock out of a wall, approx. 2' x 5', to
repair some plastic water pipes (why do people use plastic in places like
this???). I'm going to replace the shower/tub valve, and replace all of the
plastic with copper. This is the final stage of a repair job that I started
a few weeks ago when a plastic (cpvc) pipe broke in the bathroom wall. I'm
basically replacing all of the plastic with copper, and putting in new
valves for the tub/shower, and toilets.
My question has to do with removing and replacing the sheetrock. I'm not
sure I can remove a piece this big intact, since it crosses a stud and is
screwed to the stud in a dozen places. Should I just hack it out of the
wall, or should I take the time to find and remove the screws so that I can
remove it intact?
If I take the time and trouble to remove it intact, I can replace it with
minimal finishing work. If I replace it, I have to redo the texture that is
on it so that it matches the rest of the wall. Any advice from those of you
who have done this before?
If you have extra sheetrock laying around, cutting the outside and then ripping
it out will be fastest. But, if you use a strong magnet to find the screws, you
can just scrape off the putty over them and back them out, and save the piece
without much difficulty. The biggest problem is cutting along the center of the
studs so you can re-screw both side when you are done in either case.
I use a magnet taken from the inside of an old 5 1/4" computer harddrive to find
screws/nails. It'll stick in place over them if you want.
ended up looking like crap, from the screws blowing out the cut raw edge
of the drywall. Now, instead, I flush-cut as tight as I can on the side
of the stud where it needs to be opened, and screw (not nail) blocks
against the stud, to catch the edge of the patch when it gets
reinstalled. That allows a proper margin between screw and edge of
drywall, and a nice straight and tight seam to patch.
But then again, nobody will ever pay me for my drywall skills- it takes
me a day to do what a pro can do in an hour. And you can still tell a
pro didn't do it. :^(
All that work can be avoided if you simply use a jig saw with a
shortened blade to just cut the drywall thickness. I have center cut
for drywall patches for years this way. Preparing a new patch first
and using it to mark the opening makes the job a breeze if the cut out
section cannot be reused for some reason. If a stud to stud patch
might be subjected to some stress, then the usual backing means are
On Sat, 06 Feb 2010 21:20:06 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Depends on how well one contains the damage.
I've seen a fast set texture ( 20 Min.) cover a ceiling patch near
the size of the OP. Taped up clear plastic to avoid over spray
By the time the hopper is cleaned (do it fast), the ceiling is ready
for paint. Think containment.
I'm thinking that anyone who is asking the questions being asked is
not at a level of skill and knowledge that going to be able to match
If he wants an invisible repair, he's looking at the whole wall, not a
Yes...just rip and tear....use a utility knife and steel square to make your
cuts straight and corners 90 degrees...... I just completed this job ...if
you have a spot where you want to match a piece of drywall to another piece
that does not have a stud backing, just slide a 2X4 on its side through the
hole and screw it to the good drywall leaving half of the 2x4 exposed to
screw the new piece to it on the inside... then you have something to secure
your patch to.... Jim
Ditto to what Jim said...Getting the texture to match will be your biggest
challange...You will have to scrap a few inches of texture off he old wall
as well so you can apply mud tape..What texture is it ???
A sharp utility knife, level, square, and score through the paper. A
nice clean cut, prevents the paper from tearing texture away when
ripped out. Tape and mud will cover the cut.
Yep? The texture challenge.
Here's how I have done it. Saving the cutout piece and requiring minimum
Cut the piece out cleanly between the studs using a sheetrock saw or
utility knife, do not cut down the middle of the studs. Don't worry
about having no nailers to put it back for now.
After doing your pipe repair, screw some 1 by ? to the sides of the open
studs as 'nailers'. Do not use nails as the hammering might result in
nail pops in the sheetrock.
Glue some pieces of 1 x ?, or pieces of spare sheetrock, across the
backside of the sheetrock between the studs on the top and bottom of the
hole. Leave an inch or more of the 'nailer' exposed in the hole I use
regular carpenter glue. Clamp until dry.
Glue or screw your original sheetrock piece to the nailers you put
in.Gluing will eliminate having to spackle screw heads.
Put a piece of plywood or other flat stock that will cover the whole
patch against the wall and brace it for a while until the glue dries. A
half hour is sufficient.
Fill the cracks with spackle around the hole
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