Advice on brand of caulk? Mine has failed twice.

I am in the process of re-doing two bathrooms. I needed to quickly get at least one shower working so I installed an acrylic tub and a tub surround. I caulked the thing once using ployseamseal tub & tile caulk, but it failed. I figured I hadn't given the caulk enough time to cure, so I took everything apart, cleand everything with bleach and alcohol. Then I put it all back together, re-caluked, let cure for 48 hours, and it's failing again. There is six people in my family so I am now thinking that that many showers in the morning is killing the caulk job. Any recommendations on better brands of caulk?
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snoopy snipped-for-privacy@excite.com wrote:

I am amazed that you're having a problem with PolySeamSeal.
I've been using this stuff for over 20 years & I've never had it fail.
here is the link for the TDS
http://www.polyseamseal.com/products/tech-TUBTILE1.pdf
if you look at the limitations section
there are some words about "below the water line" & "constant water imersion"
if the six showers in the morning do not allow caulk to dry out maybe that is the problem
or if the shower / tub configuration is such that water can pool or sit on the caulk?
DAP DynaFlex 230 is also another possibility
or just bite the bullet & go with a silicone.
cheers Bob
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snoopy snipped-for-privacy@excite.com wrote:

I'm not a big fan of Polyseamseal, particularly in wet areas. Silicone caulk is my preferred beast at the tub/tile joint and for tub surrounds. I do use latex caulk when I need color-matched caulk, but in my experience Polyseamseal hardens over time and loses its elasticity (it fails). BobK doesn't seem to have had the same expereinces with it.
Latex caulk is easier to apply (a bit), easier to clean up, and is affected more by water during its curing period. Some people use too much water when smoothing latex caulk during application. It's also possible that you have too deep of a caulk joint. The caulk should be designed to move in one direction only, and there should be backing rod and/or bond breaker tape used to control depth and adhesion to the correct surfaces.
If you want the most tenacious caulk and can settle for a more limited palette of colors, polyurethane would be a good choice - anything by 3M or Sikaflex.
R
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RicodJour wrote:

All of my experience w/PolySeamSeal has been in SoCal so maybe it's a environmental condition thing
even when stuff gets wet out here it generally doesn't stay wet for long
I would agree about the urethane suggestion if you don't want to make the jump to silicone.
cheers Bob
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If the area is not perfectly clean it can fail, bleach should be used to kill any spores, after scrubbing use a razor blade to get it clean. Silicone caulk is best but check the expiration date, old caulk never works well
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We use polyseamseal here in Arizona all the time in our home repair business as well as our own home and have very good luck with it. 48 hours should be plenty for dry time.
cm

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snoopy snipped-for-privacy@excite.com wrote:

In my experience caulk failure is usually the result of poor surface prep. Everything must be clean and dry. Note: Bleach will kill mold, but is does not clean anything. All traces of the old caulk must be removed.
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snoopy snipped-for-privacy@excite.com wrote:

along outside of seam? Only time I have ever had caulk fail was when I removed an aluminum/glass shower door unit to clean up and recaulk. Being a newbie at that, I slathered latex caulk all along the edge of the unit before I reinstalled it. The more, the better, right? :o) Waited couple of days, and first shower had caulk running down outside of tub :o) Ick!
Cleaned it all up. Went to pro installer for free advice, got sillycone and did it the right way. Wipe with bleach first. I don't look for particular brand, but it is usually DAP.
Never put in a plastic shower/tub unit, but what do install instructions tell you to use?
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snoopy snipped-for-privacy@excite.com (snoopy snipped-for-privacy@excite.com) says...

I have had good results with DAP.
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Just a thought- there is no movement of the unit when people step in it, right? Install is secure?
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Yes, everything is rock solid and stable. I did however use a lot of caulk :-( I don't normally, but it failed so poorly the last time I went with the more is better route. I laid a thick bead down, then slid the panels in place over it. Then swipe the bead via a wet and soapy finger. Everything is brand new so mold is not a problem, but I did clean away old caulk with a razor, then scrubbed with bleach and then alcohol. I was wondering if grout would bind to the plastic.... Also, I thought this polyseamseal was silicone....?
Sev wrote:

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Can you get them to take a bath instead of a shower for the next week while it cures? Is it a fiberglass or cast iron tub?
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I've heard to fill tub with cold water while caulking (and for the two days of drying time). This stretches the tub DOWN as best it's gonna go. When it's empty it comes up, which compresses the caulk. Whic is OK.
No idea if this works or helps.
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snoopy snipped-for-privacy@excite.com wrote:

made when I caulked around the frame of the aluminum/glass door unit before I replaced it. Didn't know that caulk only went on the edge of the joint after the unit is in place :o) Had a latex waterfall goin' on first time I showered - water hit glass door and ran out under the frame, taking the goo with it. :o)
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My experience is that Dap is crap, and Dow is wow.
Just one man's experience, Dap Acrylic Latex caulk is garbage. GE or Dow works better for me.
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After a day or two I notice that if I touch the caulk there is white residue on my finger, which leads me to think it's not dry. Then when I take a damp rag to wipe off the ledge, some strings of caulk come off and float down the edge of the tub. It's not completely gone, but some weep holes are devloping etc... I tore apart the whol tub and surround, cleaned everything with bleach fantastic, then wipe down with alcohol, dried, and re-caulked. Same difference. I was thinking about tearing it back out and using the silicone that they use for fish tanks. I don't know what else to do. I never had a problem with caulk before. Same brand from two different stores so I assume that the batches are different.
Stormin Mormon wrote:

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This site may answer some questions for you.........
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infcau.shtm
Good luck with this :-)
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&spamblock*-@hotmail.com (Stormin Mormon) says...

Acrylic latex would really be the wrong thing to use around a tub. Tub and Tile Adhesive Caulk would be my choice. I have had very good luck with the DAP product.
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