Adding insulation to a mobile home


Here I sit, in my Mobile Mansion, feeling a chill in the air and wondering what I can do to make it better.
First I was thinking about 1 inch rigid foam over the shingles with a steel roof over that. Searching the net I see people are filling the entire "attic" spaces in mobiles with blown in fiberglass insulation. (Cellulose insulation is too heavy and can corrode steel roofs) Well mine isn't steel, it's trusses, underlayment, and shingles. Anyone seen something that looks good, or warn me about something bad?
I had one gable end open once so it looks feasable doing blown in from each end, but the drawback is the living room with cathedral ceiling leaves no access or room for insulation there. I suppose that could get the foam on the inside ceiling and drywall, but a second layer of drywall is probably too much of a load on it.
Any ideas?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Better ( storm) windows.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
<RJ> wrote:

Hi, Also insulated skirting for the floor if there is none.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

When I spent a winter in Columbia Missouri in the early 70s skirting really made a difference. In this case the skirting was lattice blocked with snow.
Jimmie
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Tony Hwang wrote:

It has skirting of sorts. Concrete block with stucco, and with the automatic opening vents. (they close at around 50f) Once when it got down below zero it went down to 40F under there (I leave a thermometer next to the plumbing stuff). Insulation wouldn't be easy. Also the bottom or belly of the house is insulated and in pretty good condition.
I don't know why but the locals, even masons call the block skirting "underpinning" even though it gives no support to the house.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
<RJ> wrote:

That's a possibility. My current windows are basically 1 storm window on the outside and one storm window on the inside with about 3 3/4" of air in between. Not the tightest fit but not really that bad either.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
What the others have said, is true. Trailers have not enough wall thickness, and seldom enough insulation in the roof. And leaky windows. And they lose heat under the floor.
What I've done in mine. A couple friends and I cut open the ends of the roof, and blew in several bags of cellulose. I had some 2 inch PVC left over from another job. That fit into the blower hose, and allowed the guys to inject fluff farther in. I'm sure the center didn't get insulated, but it's better than it was.
A couple of the windows were single pane. I packed in pink fiberglass, and then stapled plastic on the inside. Helps, a lot. Looks awful. Who cares?
Under the trailer, I found some of the heat run, uninsulated. That got packed with fiberglass, and then mylar foil bubble wrap stapled up from under.
When it starts to snow, I fill the floor model humidifier, and keep a little humidity in the trailer. During the bitter cold, it takes about two galons a day of water. Which tells me I'm losing a lot of air some how. I should go around and do what I can to tighten up some more.
Also installed a 90 percent efficiency furnace, which helps a bit with the fuel costs.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I did pretty much the same thing as Stormin describes. I used cellulose, which has been satisfactory so far (12-13yrs?) If I could do t over, I would have imsisted om fiberglass though. I hired mine done-- at the time the whole thing was $300, which more than payed for itself in one summer. Not long after that, I removedthe aluminum skin, added fiberglass batts, then the foil backed foam sheathing and wood siding, and replaced the windows at the same time.I was far more intersted in keeping the place cool than warm (S Tx). Place still isn't gonna win any prizes for energy efficiency, but compared to the way it was----.no comparison. Another option for the roof is sprayed foam---urethane(?) I talked to a customer a while back who had that done on a regular house, with a fairly low pitched roof, and he said he had no complaints whatever after 10+ yrs. Larry
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.