AC low freon?

[jamesgangnc]

That's acceptable. It might seem a little high but they're including the initial trip. If you don't go with them they are going to hand you a bill for $100 to $150 for the first trip.

[Grumpy]

What should the job cost, I have a quote of 470 for the total job, the initial service trip and tomorrow another tech come by to fix the leak and recharge it. I am having them do it since they installed it, are a quality company and warranty the repair. But its like anything else, you charge what the market bears - what ever you can get.

470 is fair price if he does the job as it should be done!!!!!

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[Grumpy]

I hope its the only leak, its a big one though, I hope I end up lucky or its no Ac for the rest of the year.

LEAK THAT YOU ARE DESCRIBING SYSTEM SHOULD BE EMPTY IN COUPLE OURS? good luck

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[Stormin Mormon]

I could do it for $190, but I'm in another state.

[Stormin Mormon]

House call. Three or four hours labor. They may want to recover all the old freon and put in all new freon. I'm not sure what others charge. But, I'd work it out as 60 trip charge (local to me). $50 an hour labor, and $30 a pound for refrigerant. That could total out $400 without too much effort. Sounds like they aren't too far off. It's still a pile of money.

[HeyBub]

But there's bargains to be had.

My ten-year-old Trane bellied up and washed ashore during hurricane Yikes. My son has a neighbor (Guatemalan if that makes any difference) who moonlights off the books. Being in the business, he found a two-year old condensing unit, brought it over at 8:00 p.m., installed the unit (including brazing a couple of joints), evacuated (I guess sort of) the system, and recharged it. He was done by 10:00 p.m. and I was out $700.

Been working swell these two years.

It might pay to, um, "inquire" around. (I'm in Houston if you want my tech's name...)

[The Daring Dufas]

Many techs don't know how to properly use them and like most folks are afraid of something different. I most definitely don't push sealers as a cure all and prefer brazing up a hole in a system but some tiny leaks respond very well to the sealer I've used. I'm also fond of UV florescent dye for finding tiny leaks. I've used it to find pinhole sized leaks in many refrigeration and AC systems.

TDD

[The Daring Dufas]

Hot weather is a bear that trumps everything else.

TDD

[ransley]

When you are broke any repair is alot of money. When I think this month I might get some back bills paid off I get new ones to keep me broke.

[ransley]

I paid the first trip, it was 150 but discounted to 75 since they are comming back. They are a good company, and it could have been 10 x worse so I shouldnt complain, im lucky yesterday was the coolest day in a month, im lucky ive had central Ac at all.

[Stormin Mormon]

The old cliche fits, too much month left over at the end of the money. Walmart has window shakers from about a hundred bucks and up.

[Grumpy]

SORRY CHRIS! ONLY IF YOU ARE SCREWING UNCLE SAM I work for my self and I would not do it for less then $600.oo

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[Grumpy]

Sorry TDD but the only reliable leak detector on market today is H-10G presently manufacture by Bacharach they are not cheap but they are good. You take good fart it will detected, UV florescent dye if I can use nothing ales

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[Stormin Mormon]

In many cases, it's not necessary to use the recovery machine. If the leak is on the low side, it's possible to pump the refrigerant into the condensor, and keep it captive, there.

[Stormin Mormon]

State of confusion, I am!

Your prices sound reasonable. I was having a sale, but not having any product in stock. No rain checks!

[The Daring Dufas]

I can find most leaks with the Mark 1 Eyeball and E240/ns64 Ear. I have not only the UV dye but ultrasonic leak detectors and sniffers. Another item I use is dry nitrogen. I will break down an exasperating system into zones, seal them off, pressurize them and look for a pressure drop. When me and my buddy install an AC system in a house that won't be occupied for a while, we don't install the condenser but pressurize the line set connected to the evaporator with N2 and leave it. If the pressure drops or vanishes a week later, we know a carpenter put a nail through the line set.

TDD

[Don Klipstein]

The way I hear it:

Leaks big enough to find with "sniffers" and fluorescent/"UV" leak detection are worth fixing in ways that target them - brazing or whatever along those lines.

Leaks smaller than that appear to me to deserve Cliplight's "Super Seal".

Keep in mind that Cliplight sells not only "Super Seal", but also dyes, dye injectors, lights, and kits for fluorescent/"UV" leak detection.

As a result, it appears to me that Cliplight has a reasonable rate of marketing their "Super Seal" for usage when that is appropriate. That is heavily-in-my-mind because they also sell means to find leaks worth fixing more directly than with application of their "Super Seal". And I have yet to hear of Cliplight selling braze, torches, torch hoses, torch fuel or oxygen or tanks thereof, although they do sell the most convenient and durable torch ignitor that I ever saw ("SparkKey" IIRC, and I have one.) But as much as they sell leak detection dyes, lights, and dye injectors as well as torch ignitors, I seem to think that they want their customers to target leaks worth finding and brazing or otherwise repairing without their "Super Seal" when such leaks are big enough to be worth repairing more directly than with usage of their "Super Seal". And that they promote usage of their "Super Seal" mainly to plug smaller leaks that are too small to be worth individually both detecting and repairing by leak-site-specific means.