A rat problem

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wrote:

What I like is the perfectly shaped mouse hole. AIUI, carpentry is high-status occupation in the mouse world. And as real craftsmice, they do all this without power tools.
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http://i7.tinypic.com/2ex6kah.jpg
Check the picture. Traps are not very effective.
Seriously, if you want to be done with them, put out poison and keep it out even after the rats are gone.
Put it in places hard for kids/pets to reach
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wrote:

If you don't plug up the hole they are coming in you won't accomplish much. In spite of what I see here, I have had a dead rat in a wall and it is more than a monor little inconvenience. That was a relatively small roof rat. A Norway is a lot bigger problem.
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Always though, plug the entrances once you are sure that the immediate problem has been resolved.
Some think that the 10 days of an odor followed with the chance of a week of flies is more than a minor inconvenience...others may think that of breaking a thumb or finger while messing with a rat trap...even more may think paying a carpenter to come in to patch the ceiling where they put a foot through it while placing out the traps becomes more than a minor inconvenience. And then there is no assurance that the rodent won't kill itself by biting into electrical wiring killing itself anyway or actually starting a fire during the time that setting and checking traps may take.
Lar
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The rat we had was more like a 6 month smell that just would not go away. I used a live trap and glue pads to trap them out. It really wasn't that hard. I never got one with a snap trap. They always managed to trip it without getting caught, then they ate the bait. Glue traps on the trails and a baited live trap seemed to be most effective.
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On Sun, 12 Aug 2007 12:24:24 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

It's really hard to trap them after they are dead. But I guess it is worth trying.

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On Fri, 10 Aug 2007 20:10:50 -0400, "Charlie Bress"

A cat that enjoys hunting. Using more than one method is a good idea too.
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