A few questions - Basement windows, replacing doors

Hello I'm buying my first house, and I have a few questions.
One of the things I'm wanting to do (and it's been suggested by the inspector) is to replace the basement windows. They're all single pane and currently, instead of having the TV cable hookup go through anywhere else, they've (the current owners) have it going through one of the basement windows, meaning that it lets in all the cold etc ?!?! I'm wondering, how easy is it to replace basement windows? (They are a little above ground level, there is no dug out area in front of them.)
Should the cable be going through the window like that, and if not, how do I create a hole that will allow it through (without drilling holes in the brick/concrete if possible, perhaps put it through the window frame and seal with silicone or something?), or should I have the cable company hook it up properly into the house somehow?
Also, is it horribly difficult to replace a set of sliding doors that lead outside? They are old and it's difficult to get the doors open. I'm looking to see if I can simply fix the track, but if it's simply unrepairable I would like to replace it myself.
As a side question, I recently told a friend that I did indeed get an inspector to come in, and they were shocked to find out that I paid for it instead of insisting the sellers pay for this. Who normally pays for the house inpsection?
Thanks in advance for any help :)
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What type of foundationf or the windows? In stone or cement foundations, I used to tear them out and set in the new window using concrete. It would be easy at the time to allow a cable entry. It took about 30 minutes to do a window.

Two men, h af a day or so. If you know the basics, it can be done. I piad $200 to have a 8' door replaced some years ago, but it would be at least double that now.

Seller almost never pays. Why should he? You are the one that wants the information. If I was to pay, I'd choose the inspector and he may be biased. You don't want that do you?
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We bought a house a couple of months ago, and it was never suggested that the seller pay. You are buying a house, you want YOUR inspector to do the work. I was also told not to take the inspector recommended by the realtor, because inspectors like a clean referral source, and don't want a reputation as a deal killer. I suppose that would depend on your level of trust with your agent.
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Running Jack Flash wrote:

Our agent was great, working with us to ensure everything went smoothly and such considering we're moving 4 hours north from where I am now. The inspector was someone we knew personally and he went through everything with a fine toothed comb. It seemed odd to me that my friend was shocked that I pay for it, but it made sense to me. I'm glad to hear I'm not the insane one (for once!)
What I really don't understand is when people refuse to get inspections, thinking they'll somehow save a few hundred bucks. I mean, you're buying probably the most expensive item in your lifetime, it makes sense to me to have it inspected by a professional you trust!
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

Cement foundation. 30 mins isn't so bad, and thank you, I'm glad to hear I can put the cable in there easily when doing this.

Hmm ok. My husband was saying he and I could just 'pop it out' and put in a new one but I didn't think it'd be that easy for us to do it, as we've never done this before. It seems to just be the track that needs replacing, but I figured it would be best to get an idea of what was needed in case we have to replace.

That's what I figured! I figured it was best that I pick the person I trust.
Thanks!
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Decoy wrote:

If the track is not bent and dinged, you might save yourself some time and money by checking the rollers in the bottom of the door. There should be an access hole on either side at the bottom of the door to allow you to use a screwdriver to adjust the roller height. Adjusting the rollers to minimum height should allow you to lift the door out of the track. One or two screws hold the rollers into the bottom of the door. Take them out, check to see that they are not broken and spin freely, springs OK, etc. If they look OK, clean and lube. If not, take one with you to Home Depot or Lowes and get a couple of exact replacements. Reinstall and adjust the height so the door rolls freely and the latch engages, and you're done.
Jerry
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jerry snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Very helpful, thank you!
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