A/C on one circuit causing voltage flicker on another (?)

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snipped-for-privacy@pookmail.com wrote:

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/browse_thread/thread/818da780a1f96513/d1af96b1ca6205f6?lnk=gst&q ώeder+wire+for+subpanel#d1af96b1ca6205f6
hard start assist on your AC unit. It could eliminate the light dimming.
http://www.kickstartoem.com/faqs/homeowner.html
[8~{} Uncle Monster
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Uncle Monster wrote:

AC. Supco makes a hard start unit that will work on your 120 vac air conditioner.
http://www.supco.com/eclass.htm
[8~{} Uncle Monster
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another issue is the type of lights that are flickering....
those cheap shop fluroscents do flicker with even minor voltages fluctuations.
had a rental with a tenant that bugged, afraid home had bad wiring . replaced lamp fixtures with better ones end of trouble:)
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Jeff wrote:

If you really want to do the test. Ordinary meter is too slow as well as human eyes. Really oscilloscope is needed or a meter which can read the instantaneous voltage and freeze the display.
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Jeff wrote:

Your eyes and digital display panel is not good enought to catch it. Digital scope or analog scope kinda instrument will show it proper.
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snipped-for-privacy@pookmail.com wrote:

I have same issue on rewired lake house. Friends in the business tried to explain it - apparently not that unusual and no a lot you can do either....
paul
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Motor starting surge is approx 3x the running current....plus an inductive "kick" for a capacitor start(single phase) motor.
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Mike Copeland wrote:

Depends upon the motor and its load. Some are less. Compressors tend to be a lot more. Check the nameplate on the AC. Look for "LRA".
Momentary dimming of lights on motor starting is quite normal. If it is a 120V motor, the lights on circuits on the opposite may brighten. Some lights are more sensitive to voltage fluctuations: lights partially dimmed are much more noticeable; full on incandescents are less noticeable.
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What does LRA stand for? An acronym? Name of a manufacturer?
Thanks,
David
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On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 01:56:10 +0000 (UTC), snipped-for-privacy@panix.com (David Combs) wrote:

That should be "Locked Rotor Amps", the maximum possible current drain.

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