How to mortar a whirlpool tub?

 

I have a tub I am putting in - it needs to be supported by stringers
on 3 sides (to level the tub only). Then it will need approx 1 1/4" of
mortar or so underneath it to properly support the base.

I am thinking of using relatively soft cardboard triangles stapled to
the floor to hold the mortar to get the tub on it. I only have access
from the back and then only before I slide the tub in.

I am looking for clues as to how to go about this. I can't open up any
adjoining walls (or rather am unwilling to), so to me it seems the
mortar bed is crucial for proper support on this thing.... The issue
will be to get the mortar at the right consistency so it will not run
out, but yet can be 'squished' a bit once the tub is in.

They say NOT to fill the tub while doing this, which is a good thing
since I have nothing hooked up to be able to do that.

I attached a few pics here of it so you can sort of get an idea of the
issue....

http://clients.teksavvy.com/~bsaking/Reno/CIMG6258.JPG

http://clients.teksavvy.com/~bsaking/Reno/CIMG6261.JPG


Like I say - just looking for /clues/pointers/observations before I
get into it...... (no rude comments puhleese! lol)

Thx, BSA

 

A corollary question regards the electrical. I currently have a 15 amp
wall outlet with a GFI in it and a separate 10 gauge solid wire
dragged back to the panel ground and will be tagged to the motor
block.

Would I be better server by a GFI 15 amp installed in the panel? Or
does it make any difference? The panel one is like $100 and the wall
box mounted one I already have.

thanks

 


*I typically install one or two 20 amp 120 volt circuits for a whirlpool tub
depending on whether there is a heater attached or not.  I mount a regular
20 amp receptacle (Or 2) near the access panel in a 4" square box attached
to the wall studs. It is not always easy, but I try to keep the receptacle
box from interfering with possible pump servicing while at the same time
keeping the receptacle box accessible.  I install a GFI switch (Or 2)
somewhere else in the bath room such as a closet or behind the door or as a
last resort over the countertop to protect the outlet(s) for the tub.  I do
this so that it is convenient to reset the GFI instead of having to go to
the electrical panel or pry open the panel on the side of the tub.

I usually bond the tub with a solid #8 from the pump lug to the nearest hot
and cold water pipes.  I clamp onto both pipes and if there is a shower head
I clamp onto that pipe too.  There is no need to bring the equipotential
bonding conductor back to the panel.

Read articles 680-71 and 680-74 and also read the manufacturer's
instructions.

 

wrote:

What does the manufacturer say? The installation manual should say how
to accomplish this, but if I had to guess, just throw a mound of
mortar on the floor, then lift up tub slightly while pushing it into
place so it makes a good form when it sits on the mortar.
Does the manual say you need mortar?

As far as the electrial, it does not make a difference to have a GFI
outlet or breaker, but I think you need to run a new circuit anyway
either way because 1) 15A is not code for a bathroom outlet and 2) a
whirlpool bath might need a dedicated circuit.

 


It does not say anything at all about how to accomplish the mortar
issue. It does say you need it. Looking at it, the actual tub 'target'
area is much less than the overall base area, so perhaps a sizable
mound of mortar is all I need to do....

I have already run a separate 15 amp circuit from the panel with a
separate ground for the motor assembly directly from the panel. 15
amps is what that motor calls for. I did run 12 gauge wire though
because the run is about 30 feet and it is a motor draw, but breakers
and GFI's are 15 amp as called for.