Frigidair electric range oven broiler and bake elements

This is a 5 years old Canadian made range (model: CPES389AC1, S/N:NF

14705526). It worked just fine until now. Not anymore. The broiler and bake elements not producing heat. After checking, they are OK. The convection element and its fan works. There is light in the oven. Oven control board's shows all functions, close door it oven set to self-cleaning mode. Clock is OK. No error code.

Turns out this model is quite unique, because none of the parts retailers contacted knows a model with AC1 ending. Being an amateur would like to find out the part number for the heat sensor (3" long) and the control board (made by Spitfire Control Inc. Model: 31818390)assuming that one of these parts is the culprit. Which might or not be true.

Any idea would be appreciated,

Reply to
OvenFrank88
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Hi, Checked fuse or something equivalent?

Reply to
Tony Hwang

Hello Tony,

House main panel fuses are OK. According to the schematic diagram, downloaded from Frigidaire website for this model, shows only 1 thermal circuit breaker for the temperature probe. Meantime Sears give me the part numbers (sensor: 970316217002) and the "timer" (hopefully it is the EOC's number): 970318183603N After taking apart the front of the range-where the EOC is located-the tab on the EOC reads: Spitfire Control Inc. Model No.: 318183900. While this is only of this man nitpicking interest: where the part numbers come from? By the way: resetting the range (disconnecting) gives no error code either.

To do:

  1. How to test the temperature probe
  2. How to test the EOC

Any other idea?

Thanks for your trouble.

Reply to
OvenFrank88

Reply to
eass

Reply to
eass

My reply of Dec27 on OvenFrank88's problem with his Frigidaire range appears not to have gotten through, so here's another.

Had the same problem recently with my 5-yr old Kenmore range, which also uses the Spitfire Controls model 318183900 electronic oven control. Since no power was getting to the bake and broil elements, and all other functions including the display were still operating normally, I figured that something was wrong with the 20A relay (the largest of the 3 located at the end of the circuit board) that switches both the bake and broil elements. Closer inspection revealed that the trace on the solder side of the circuit board connecting this relay to its associated spade terminal had probably overheated and blown open, because the relay itself was still operating in reponse to the control voltage. I thought I'd try a repair because the cost of replacing the whole control would be $314 for the part alone (Sears has one in stock). Now these controls are not actually repairable; they're sealed, so you can't get at the solder side of the circuit board for one thing. I ended up cutting off the top and one side of the relay's plastic housing, exposing the relay, and soldering a couple of stranded copper wires between it and the spade terminal. The oven now heats normally.

I had a similar problem with my dishwasher touchpad control 3 years ago. The cost of replacing that control was going to be about half the cost of a new dishwasher! It only needed resoldering of a contact of one of the power relays that sits on a circuit board.

I think all such types of electronic controls have the same failure-prone weakness; in their efforts to keep appliances compact, stylish, and to reduce manufacturing costs (and maybe also help the parts and repair business), they've included the power handling relays

- the ones that switch the bake and broil elements for example- with the electronic control. Premature failures will continue to occur until these relays are installed off the board. Reliability of the control may then begin to approach the reliability of the relays themselves, which is about 100,000 electrical operations, and that of the other solid state components. Bill E., Toronto, ON

Reply to
eass

Thanks for the tip. My friends 36" Tappan gas range has a F1 error message and the oven won't turn on. I'll check out the bake and broil relays assuming if I could get to it. If plug-in relays were used but that would add any extra dollar to the circuit board.

Reply to
# Fred #

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I also have this board and am having issues. I have been suspecting that the board wiring is incorrect, (I bought it second hand and it need work) Can you help me?

Reply to
kendog

formatting link

You are responding to a question that is 4 years old.

This is not a homeownershub forum. It is a usenet newsgroup. Maybe you could find out what usenet is.

Homeowners' hub is a parasite that steals the work of people who use usenet.

If you don't want to figure out usenet, I suggest using google groups.

Reply to
bud--

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