40:1 or 50:1 two-stroke tools (what to do if you have both)?

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I have 40:1 and 50:1 two-stroke tools - which I'm inclined to use the same fuel for all of them.
What do you do given some two-stroke tools are 40:1 while others are 50:1?
a) Do you maintain two separate gas cans? b) Do you make it 45:1 for all of them? c) Do you use 40:1 or 50:1 for all of them?
Note: Tools are chainsaw, hedge trimmer, weed whacker, air blower, etc.
How critical is the exact oil:gasoline ratio anyway?
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On 6/15/2011 3:55 PM, SF Man wrote:

if you use a good quality oil like the stihl oil, you can run everything at 50:1. We even run the old lawnboys which were supposedly designed for 16:1 on 50:1 with out problems.
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Steve Barker
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replying to Steve Barker, Bubba wrote: It wont hurt using ONE tank that much. Using fuel that isn't the same ratio will harm the unit. It will carbon up and rings will stick, exhaust will get clogged and the combustion chamber will be full of carbon. 35 years as a factory tech for stihl( gold) ,echo, husqvarna and a master OPE TECH.
Not a good idea.
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replying to Bubba, trimmer88 wrote: Why can't you just use Mobile 1 at the proper ratio ie. 40:1? Why does it have to be 2 stroke oil?
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SF Man wrote:

I would probably use 50:1 in all of them, and make sure it was really really good oil. Echo or Stihl brand chainsaw oil, or maybe Quicksilver synthetic PWC oil.
For 2-cycle tools that I don't use very often, I've starting mixing fuel in a 500ml pop bottle and measure the oil with a syringe. One tank of fuel for most small engines. If you do the same you could custom mix it for each tool.
-Bob
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More oil is better for engine life but many engines run poorly at richer oil mixes. I have a 1984 lawnboy designed for 32-1 and I run synthetic at maybe 40 to 46 - 1. Id say use a good synthetic and see how they run and try one mix
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On Wed, 15 Jun 2011 18:08:27 -0500, zxcvbob wrote:

Yes, I've got a straight-sided jug that I use to do the same, which I marked off for the tank capacities of different tools. Good tip on the syringe; for the oil I've got a little marked-off cup thing which I think came from a tub of laundry cleaner, but the syringe would probably work better.
I think for 50:1 v 40:1 it's "close enough" that it wouldn't matter using the same mix, but I've got a little tiller which likes a lot of oil and runs on 24:1.
cheers
Jules
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On Thu, 16 Jun 2011 01:41:12 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson wrote:

Hi Jules,
Thanks for that tip, on top of Bob's suggestion.
I see if I get the right sized jug, I can mark it for the capacity of each tool, and, ad hoc, mix the oil and gas at the time of fill.
Of course, that's a problem with partial fills.
So, I would have to do a behavioral modification (full fills only allowed).
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On Wed, 15 Jun 2011 23:43:38 -0700, SF Man wrote:

Yes, that's the main drawback. OTOH, I never know how much I'm going to be using each tool each season, and I don't want leftover mixes sitting around, so I just got into the habit of running them dry before re- filling.
I suppose the jug could be marked for fractions of a tank, too, but that's perhaps more trouble than it's worth :-)
cheers
Jules
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replying to Jules Richardson, Bubba wrote: You will burn up it up with your thinking.....its not designed to run with 'close enough' ratio fuel mix. Don't understand why folks want to shortcut stuff ...then it tears up. Then you bring it to me for warranty, and I know that you haven't used the right ratio , when I go through it, and I tell you too bad, and then you get mad. Be smart , not lazy. It will save you time nd aggravation.
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On Wed, 15 Jun 2011 18:08:27 -0500, zxcvbob wrote:

Thanks for that idea Bob. I had not thought of that.
Since the fuel tanks are so very small, that's an option (I'd have to measure each one though and get a syringe, as you noted).
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replying to zxcvbob, Bubba wrote: And you would burn it up with a leaner mix...you garage mecahnics are what keeps me fed...but don't tell folks stuff that ruins their equipment.
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SF Man wrote:

For me, I'll settle for 45"1 with best oil you can get.
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wrote:

designed for 40:1 at 50:1 - and PWC oil is not necessarily acceptable, at any ratio, for air cooled power tools. You want AIR COOLED two stroke oil. (they run hotter than water cooled engines)
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replying to clare, Bubba wrote: Correct! Finally someone with sense...
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replying to Tony Hwang, Bubba wrote: And you will cause a carbon to build up...when it breaks loose it will devistate the engine ..not smart advice.
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I'd go with 40:1 and risk a fouled plug in the 50 engine. If that happens, you can always go lighter, but once the engine is seized, changing the mix won't help.
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replying to Ed Pawlowski, Bubba wrote: Fouled plug is the least of your worries...carbon build up in the chamber, rings, and exhaust port....when that carbon breaks loose, it devistates the cylinder and piston...you're givem incorrect advice. Smh
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I am not an expert but I always considered it important enough to mark separate cans for my chain saw and weed eater which use different mixes. I generally use Stihl oil in both.
RonB
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On Wed, 15 Jun 2011 18:51:57 -0700 (PDT), RonB wrote:

In doing research on the oil & ratio, I find the following tidbits of interest: - Two-stroke oil reduces the octane rating by about 2 points. - Two-stroke oil raises the octane rating (by an unspecified amount). - All Echo 2-stroke equipment requires 89 octane gasoline with ISO-L-EGD & JASO M345 FC/FD two-stroke oil - Using more two-stroke oil (i.e., 40:1 vs 50:1) will not help your engine. - Do not use synthetic two-stroke oil.
- Two-stroke oil reduces the octane rating by about 2 points. "First, when fuel is premixed with 2-stroke oil, the octane rating is reduced by about 2 points. An 87 octane fuel would therefore become 85 octane. Second, fuel evaporates and loses its octane rating when it lays in your aircraft's fuel tank or in a plastic jug. A "premium", 91 octane fuel will see its octane rating reduced to unusable levels after as little as three weeks. Fuel with a lower octane rating would obviously have an even shorter usable life. REFERENCE: http://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed2.htm
- Two-stroke oil raises the octane rating (by an unspecified amount). "adding oil to the gasoline will raise the octane. The amount that it will raise the octane though would be very little. The reason for this is twofold. First, with a fuel-oil ratio on the order of 25:1 - 50:1, there is actually very little oil added to the gasoline. Second, when the oil/gas mixture enters the cylinder, the oil will "drop out" while the gasoline will remain a vapor. this is due the oil's lower vaporization rate. If the oil didn't do this, there would be no lubricating effect and the engine would quickly seize." REFERENCE: http://www.wmi.org/bassfish/bassboard/boats_motors/message.html?message_id 4343
- Using more two-stroke oil (i.e., 40:1 vs 50:1) will not help your engine. "The ratio is 50 to 1, or 2%. This means you would mix 400mL of oil in 20L of fuel, 500mL for 25L, and so on. Using more oil than recommended would not help your engine in any way: it will accelerate the formation of carbon deposits which will eventually break loose and accelerate wear." REFERENCE: http://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed2.htm
- All Echo 2-stroke equipment requires 89 octane gasoline with ISO-L-EGD & JASO M345 FC/FD two-stroke oil "ISO-L-EGD and JASO M345 FC/FD oil must be used with a mid-grade (89 octane) or premium gasoline in all 1997 and newer engines." REFERENCE: http://hubersgarage.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/docs/ECHO_FUEL.10073242.doc
- Do not use synthetic two-stroke oil. "Synthetic oil should only be used by those who operate their engine nearly every day. Even when shut down, air is constantly circulating through a 2-stroke engine; it is never sealed like a 4-stroke engine. Even though it has excellent lubricating properties, a synthetic oil does not effectively protect a stopped 2-stroke engine against corrosion: it tends to attract moisture and will run off the parts rather than leave a protective coating." REFERENCE: http://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed2.htm
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