3-way lamp switch

Hi,
I have a halogen floor lamp in which the switch has melted and needs to be replaced. It's a 3-way rotary switch (off,low,high), but it only has 2 leads coming out (it looks like there was a resistor or something inside which was used for the "low" setting and was what melted). The only 3-way switches I've seen at the hardware store all have 3 leads. Is there a way to use one of these switches to replace mine, or am I stuck with replacing it with just a regular on-off switch?
- J.R.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
J.R. Quigley wrote:

I suspect you are going to have a problem. Take out the old switch and bring it to an electrical supply house (not your local hardware store or DIY big box store. Try to pick a time when they are not busy servicing their professional customers and show them what you have and explain what you want. Be sure to have the total wattage of the fixture, and if possible have the fixture in your car.
Considering most halogen floor lamps, I would suggest it may be better to just replace the whole lamp and get one with all the current safety features.
--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
J.R.:
JQ> I have a halogen floor lamp in which the switch has melted and needs JQ> to be replaced. It's a 3-way rotary switch (off,low,high), but it JQ> only has 2 leads coming out (it looks like there was a resistor or JQ> something inside which was used for the "low" setting and was what JQ> melted). The only 3-way switches I've seen at the hardware store all JQ> have 3 leads. Is there a way to use one of these switches to replace JQ> mine, or am I stuck with replacing it with just a regular on-off JQ> switch? I'm thinking the 'resistor' is a diode (rectifier) -- does it have a single coloured band at one and, or perhaps one end is bevelled? You can get replacements at many sources including Radio Shack. If your lamp is rated 300W (watts) you'll need to get a replaced rated 6A (amps); if the lamp is rated 150W get the 3A version (the 6A version will also work; using an over-rated device in this situation won't cause any harm). ...A common number for the device is the 1N4001 family -- I think the 1N4007 is the 6A version (it's been a while and I'm too lazy to check - these numbers will get you to the right section, narrow it down to the three or four items R/S sells, and the ratings are printed on the packaging).
You also need to get a double throw, center off switch. (Radio Shack sells these also.) Which ever one fits and has the appropriate ratings. IIRC they don't have 3A contacts so go with contacts rated 6A (again, overrating here won't cause problems).
Wiring:
Black Diode Line--------|<|-- | | o o o Switch contacts | |________________________________Lamp_____White Line
The polarity of the diode is this application doesn't make any difference so you can connect the banded side to either terminal. In the diagram when the switch contacts are to the left your light will be at full voltage, giving full brighteness. When to the right will be half brightness. Off is in the center (which is why we specified a center-off switch).
Be sure none of the leads are close to anything metal of the lamp's framework. Insulate as necessary/appropriate.
- barry.martinATthesafebbs.zeppole.com
* Why are drug addicts and computer aficionados are both called users?
--
RoseReader 2.52 P003186
The Safe BBS Bettendorf, IA 563-359-1971
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.