every one is installed the other way.
There are only two arguments that seem to make sense.
Ground up, does appear to have a slight safety advantage. Notice
I did say SLIGHT.
Ground up does not work well with all plugs (then again ground
down does not work well with some other plugs.)
I don't intend to loose sleep over it, but all my plugs that get
added or worked on are ground up.
well it does matter in the sense that many cords and wall warts seem
to hang better with the ground pin down....but many commercial
buildings seem to have the ground pin up...
It would be nice in this case if there WAS a standard way to do it...
The NEC seems to want to define everything, here is a case where we
NEED a standard and they didn't do it....
I don't care which way, just pick one way and make all the plugs play
well with that way...
The "invisible" reason would be the type of cktry in the warts types.
To some styles, as it used to be with TV sets, the polarity of
hot/neutral was important. But if an item is fully Class II designed,
then it doesn't need polarization. They can also use polarity to meet
certain safety ratings, such as having to cover more than one receptable
You don't find many polarized wall warts anymore though.
On Mon, 1 Sep 2008 12:10:22 -0400, "TWayne"
For the ones (wall wart power supplies) I've examined, the prongs of
the plug are connected directly to the ends of the transformer
primary. There seems to be nothing special about one or the other.
This doesn't stop some manufacturers from using polarized plugs.
Would these ratings be nonsense, or is there actually some benefit to
using polarization here?
Why would a low-power device be designed to prevent use of a
True; many will use whatever is cheapest and already on the market.
It's a UL/CSA/ETL thing. To me it's nonsense, but that's what the specs
require for many of them. One reason I still recall is, due to the
weight of the warts, they do not want more than one hung on a vertical
outlet on the wall. I used to have to spec supplies for our telecom
equipment (R&D) which meant passing all the safety agencies.
I try when I can to get things with warts that have cords on both
sides; the primary and secondary both; more wire to hide, but more fit
to a power strip.
I haven't seen a polarized direct plug in in a long, long time though
As I mentioned above, the weight of the wart/s on the receptable seemed
to be the main reason. They aren't really considered "low power"
because you have line power coming into it and processed to produce
whatever kind of output/s was/were required. IIRC too, there was some
magic weight where even a non-polarized wart had to extend far enough to
negate using any receptacle next to it. We accomodated that by adding a
lip to the far end that covered most, not all, of any receptacle in the
There was more to all of this, but I've been out of the business for a
long time. I know Ault used to have a great web site with all the
UL/CSA and MOU plain language requirements on it; don't know if they
> Ground up does not work well with all plugs (then again ground
I recently bought some power strips for the office and the plug rotates so
it can be use in either direction or even at 45 degrees if you want. All
the new recepticals installed during a remodel are ground up.
I just saw a 3-pack of "outlet savers" in a store. Those are the
things that are supposed to let you use all the outlets in a power
strip, even when you have several wall-warts. $2 each is a really high
price to pay for 6-inch extension cords.
re: $2 each is a really high price to pay for 6-inch extension cords.
Price out your other options.
Let's say you have 5 or 6 warts and an outlet strip that will only
Option 1 - Another power strip. Takes up more space, won't be fully
utilized and probably costs more than $6.
Option 2 - Longer extension cords. Takes up more space (sloppy) and
probably costs more than $6
Option 3 - Spread your warts out to other outlets. Assuming that's
possible, what's the convenience of having all the warts in one place
worth to you? Probably more than $6.
Option 4 - Make your own 6-inch exttension cords. A viable option, but
it'll probably cost close to $6 for all the parts, although you will
have the pleasure of making your own and saying "shove it" to
corporate America. :-)
All in all, I'm not sure that "$2 each is a really high price to pay
for 6-inch extension cords"
Oh I didn't realize the machine went to the storeroom to get the parts, then
assembled them and put them into finished goods inventory all with no people
involved and no cost for the machine since there is no operator. Thank you
for correcting my error.
not the beer itself. Per oz, a keg is the cheapest way to buy beer. Unit
cost for consumer goods can never drop below a certain point, or there
would be no reason for the product to be made, because nobody would make
any money on it.
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