I can't really tell much from that tiny picture, but it doesn't look like
any P-trap I've ever seen. Regardless, standard plastic P-Traps are
usually less than $5, not a big expense.
I agree. Novel admits to not being familiar with plumbing work, so it would
be wise to have a real plumber come in and update things.
Several years ago my in-laws asked me to fix their leaky kitchen faucet.
The spout corroded and broke off so I had to track down a new faucet. While
trying to remove the faucet, the old galvanized fittings broke. When I
tried to replace the fittings, the next section of galvanized pipe split
lengthwise. By the time I got back to a usable fitting, I was about 20 feet
from the faucet where I started. :) I went ahead and replaced the entire
plumbing system with new plastic pipe.
It would appear it's a half-inch short because OP said in original post,
the portion of the threads twisted off when the fella' took the trap off...
One can always make one whatever length required altho again as another
said the simpler solution for the drain would be to go to the standard
On Sunday, June 22, 2014 1:39:14 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
But.... What we don't know is if the original length was a standard
close nipple or a length cut to make it fit. If it's standard, they
got mighty lucky..... That sucker has to be pretty close to the right
size to get the tailpiece vertical.
Of course it does (have to be the right length, that is), but given a
union plumber in NYC in the 40s or 50s, what's to think he didn't have
the whole shop set up at the time and did it all onsite? I'm guessing
altho afair OP hasn't said that this must be a multi-story brownstone or
something similar -- otherwise the stack pipe would likely not be 3",
either if were single-family dwelling.
The curious thing is how it's assembled from the sink to manage to get
the tailpiece into the trap...there's got to be a slip joint there or
it'll be a real trick...
But, I'm presuming the guy who did it can measure...it would surely have
been nice if our OP had put a ruler or some other fixed-size object in
there when took the picture...
On Sunday, June 22, 2014 2:34:00 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
I agree. It's precisely my point. If it's not a standard length
nipple, buying one isn't going to work. And I wouldn't trust
the drain guy to have measured it correctly. Folks here are
assuming the reason it's not vertical is because some of the threads
on the end broke off. But these fittings are tapered. I think
you could take 1/2" off the end and it still would tighten up to
about the same length, no? Meaning it may never have been the
right length to begin with.
Yep, which is why I said if he can get a new P trap with a slip
joint in there, using a reducing bushing in the T, etc, that
would be much better/easier.
Maybe, but I'd leave it to the guy who's going to do it to figure out
the best solution, right size, etc. If you hand him the new nipple,
then the new P trap solution is out and if he tightens it up and the
vertical alignment is off, then Doh!
I'm still wondering what the duct tape below the tee is all about.
He said something about that being put there with regard to a
previous snaking of the drain? I couldn't make any sense of that.
I hope he's not saying they made a hole in the pipe to get the
snake in, then covered it with duct tape....
are available (or were last I needed one - admittedly over a decade
ago) Not hard to custom make a nipple any size you need if you have a
pipe threader available - havr it made at your local plumbing supply,
or even Home Despot.
Maybe, maybe not (originally perfect length, that is)--we have no way to
know. I'm at least one who thinks from OPs original posting that it is
so that the threads twisted off in the trap when removed, yes. And, yes
NPT are tapered but once broke off the end, the remaining are larger and
unless he happened to have a 3" die set with him (what's the odds of
that if just the snaker-guy? :) ) he can't rethread so they'll snug up
quite soon...in fact, I'm somewhat surprised he was able to get it back
on, but appears to have done so.
Which I also said quite some time ago...
Well, I've not said anything against that at all, necessarily, only that
if the OP wants to just go back w/ the original, there's no real reason
not to imo -- I don't think any of the other "issues" raised are truly
significant in the bigger schemes of things. I'd guess it'll go another
40 yr before it clogs again unless OP is putting something down it that
shouldn't and then it'll clog just as well, anyway, if so...
As for the ruler wish, I was only interested in the true dimensions just
as a point of curiosity about it really being 3" drain there--that's
just remarkable if so it would seem...
Galvanized pipe is inexpensive and easy to find most anywhere.
Around here, copper pipe over 1" is unheard of and would surely be
expensive if you could find it.
Brass pipe is a bit rare in large sizes, but it's always expensive when I
can locate it. The few times I've needed large brass fittings, I have
ordered them online from plumbingsupply.com.
On Friday, June 20, 2014 8:49:16 AM UTC-4, novel wrote:
d a 3" pipe attached to it. Well as he was trying to remove it, part of the
thread broke off. it was old and rusted. Now, he told me to have it replac
e. His job did not call for replacing pipes and had me sign a waver for tha
t. That's fine. Now what I want to know is how to go about getting that pip
e. I'm sure its not ready made, or maybe I am wrong. I know it probably won
't be available in a regular hardware store. He said to ask for a 3" pipe,
threaded on both ends and 3" long. Isn't that what they call a 'coupler"?
To all you guys... and gals? It is a single home. I will check about the PV
C's if its necessary, when the plumber comes this morning to check it out.
The drain cleaner did put a ruler to it after I questioned him and he did s
ay 3" by 3" threaded at both ends. Obviously with that size, its not center
ed, so I guess its going to be at least longer than 3"...but again I will
leave that up to the plumber. It definitely has to be removed cause like I
said, part of the thread going into the T broke off that is why we taped it
and its holding up pretty good considering.
On Monday, June 23, 2014 9:08:01 AM UTC-4, novel wrote:
led a 3" pipe attached to it. Well as he was trying to remove it, part of t
he thread broke off. it was old and rusted. Now, he told me to have it repl
ace. His job did not call for replacing pipes and had me sign a waver for t
hat. That's fine. Now what I want to know is how to go about getting that p
ipe. I'm sure its not ready made, or maybe I am wrong. I know it probably w
on't be available in a regular hardware store. He said to ask for a 3" pipe
, threaded on both ends and 3" long. Isn't that what they call a 'coupler"?
. The drain cleaner did put a ruler to it after I questioned him and he did
say 3" by 3" threaded at both ends. Obviously with that size, its not cent
ered, so I guess its going to be at least longer than 3"...
No idea what that means. If it's 3" long, it's 3"
but again I will leave that up to the plumber. It definitely has to be remo
ved cause like I said, part of the thread going into the T broke off that i
s why we taped it and its holding up pretty good considering.
Is it a multi-story home then? What's above that stack?
That they used a full 3" trap is amazing to me--I don't think I've ever
seen such outside a commercial kitchen or the like.
The plan to let the plumber dude arrange as sees fit is probably best
bet; you might ask about the idea of reversing the T direction and what
is the tape around the lower exit line going on down doing? If he's
going to be out anyway, better do what should be done at one time if
there's something fishy there.
What's below the sink/floor? Access hopefully not a slab???
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