the water company is coming out to replace their old meter. I think I
will replace the valves that leak when turned off at the same time.
I have two, one coming from the water "main" and one right after the meter.
Here's the one from the "main"
I was hoping to get some advice on what would be a "lifetime"
And also, these looked like threaded valves. So maybe some "pipe dope"
The water company will NOT replace anything other than the meter. I
already asked. But, the valves can only be replaced once the water at
the street is turned off.
I need to able to have all the tools and hardware to do the "job". This
is where I come for advice.
Please let me know if these photos don't show. Basically it's 3/4"
copper valves taking up about 2 1/4" of pipe length. And it looks
threaded on both sides. So, that would be the "standard" thread?
On Tue, 24 Aug 2010 08:57:39 -0400, ng_reader wrote:
Visit a hardware store and find out if they carry a new packing nut and
packing for the valve. You don't need to replace the entire valve body if
you just have a stem leak. Or you may just need to tighten the packing
nut a little if you haven't done so.
It does not look like you have room to spin new ones on? Looks to me
like the baseboard heat is going to be in the way. Unless you remove
the core. Drunk Jeff is right, usually a slight turn on the top is
all it takes to stop these valves from leaking around the stem when
the are closed. Or replacing the packing at the top. I find that
after aging most of them leak around the stem when closed so I don't
bother fixing them. By the time I need to close them again they have
started leaking anyway.
I agree, for infrequent operation the ball valves are less likely to
leak with age. Plus they have much less restriction than other
types. But in his case I'd just try tightening the stem caps a bit
The valve the OP has, is what's called a "globe" valve. The design of
the valve isn't very good, the water has to make two right angle
turns. If I remember from my old days, the valve is equivilant
reistance, the same as 70 feet of pipe. The ball valve you picture has
much less water flow resistance.
I'm with you, sir. The ball valve is the way to go.
NOW, to answer your question, since no one else did. Yes, you'll need
some pipe dope, and as for the valves, get you some good brass and
stainless ball valves. Lifetime? who's? But the ball valves will
outlast you if that's what you mean. Are the water meter guys gonna be
willing for you to jack around with this when they can probably pop that
new meter in there in about 5 minutes?
remove the "not" from my address to email
As to the pipe dope. Please buy some good name brand white teflon
tape, and a wire bush also. While the threads are exposed, wire
brush them till they are clean. Wrap the male (threads on the outside)
threads with two or three wraps of teflon tape. Pull the tape to break
it off. Then, coat the teflon with Rectorseal #5 non hardening. Wrench
the new valve on, and don't bother to wipe off the excess rectorseal.
The water meter guys may wait around -- they get paid by the hour.
The consensus I've seen here would lean toward ball valves. I used "full flow"
valves, which seem to have a larger passage.
You'll probably need a short chunk of spare pipe, torch, and the appropriate
fittings, and pipe dope, plus tube cutter, wrenches, solder and flux. I've
recently started using both pipe dope and teflon tape, and have had better
results with that.
You might want to just learn how to turn off the water at the street, so you can
work at your convenience. Chances are, the new meter fits exactly, so they
probably don't take long to do the job.
Aye you are prolly right about the meter guys. It's true, the valves
don't leak when open. So, maybe a repack is in order. A youtube video
just had some guy wind teflon tape around underneath the nut. This, I
presume, took the place of some kind of graphite wire that I'd seen on
another youtube video. I have tons of tape, maybe I'll use the yellow
gas tape as it's a little thicker.
The meter guys is coming on a saturday, so, I don't know how "rush rush"
it could be.
My meter just got replaced a month ago. The old one was 45years old
according to the guy who changed it. The girl who made the
appointment said to allow 30 minutes- 15 without water. He laughed.
It was closer to 8 minutes in the basement- including
conversations--and we were without water for less than 5.
He didn't shut the water off at the street. When I told him the
valve needed packing the last 3 times I used it, he grimaced & said he
might get wet.
[turns out finally got the packing right and it was fine this time]
Our entire town just had the meters done by an out-of-town firm that
does nothing but change meters- YMMV- but my guy would not have taken
an extra 5 minutes.
Well clearly if the water doesn't get shut off at the street, I'm hosed.
But, the powers of persuasion can be powerful, and I'd betcha he comes
with that "key" to close the valve at the street.
Legally, this guy is setting foot inside my house. I think that provides
me just a tad more leverage than if the service were done outside or at
I wouldn't bet on "leverage" on the person who changes the meter. As
others have said, they want to get in and out in minimum time.
There is no reason to shut off the water at the street to change the
meter. That is what the valves on each side of the meter are for.
If you want the water off to change the valves, I suggest calling the
water utility to find out how to arrange them turning the water off at
the street. Note that the meter has a 'seal' that will be broken if you
remove the meter. They will probably want to inspect the seal before
they turn off the water and install a new one after.
Ummm... Nope, no leverage at all... They are there under the
of the water department...
The only thing you could do is refuse the upgrade, however that would
likely get you hit with a fine and then having to pay to have them do
it sometime in the near future...
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