At a plant i used to work at they used 240v fuoroescent lights, becuase they lasted longer and were cheaper, any clue where i could get ballasts and such? I'd be interested in doing this for my garage
- posted
17 years ago
At a plant i used to work at they used 240v fuoroescent lights, becuase they lasted longer and were cheaper, any clue where i could get ballasts and such? I'd be interested in doing this for my garage
Are you sure they were 220 volt and not 277 volt lights ? If a plant has 3 phase 480 volts in use, the lights are usually set for 277 volts. That is because you can get 277 volts from one leg of the 480 to the center of the transformer that is connected in the Y arangement.
I doubt they last longer because the tubes can be the same and the ballast is the differance.
Fluorescent tubes are not rated by voltage. They are rated by style, size, wattage, color temp, etc.
Ballasts are rated for voltage, in addition to other characteristics. In the US, anyway, you can get 120, 240, or 277 volts, the latter being common in commercial and inductrial installations.
Beachcomber
You'll also need to re-wire your garage for 240V.
They were probably 277V fixtures. The price savings comes in not needing as big a step down transformer for the 120/240V. Those things are pricey and the 277V fixtures cost about the same as the residential use fixtures.
In short don't bother chasing 2 bucks. You might get one but not the other ;-)
Richard Reid, LC Luminous Views
buffalobill wrote:
thanks for all the posts, it most like was 277, and I assumed 240 would be similar, supervisor commented on incredible lifespan of bulbs.
I am plannin on a large garage/workshop in the future and I figured that if the lighting was 240v, I'd save money just on wiring (a 40x80 building)
The bulbs don't come in 120V and 240V ratings.
More likely you as a 120V customer are suffering from any or any combination of:
If you run into trouble at the hardware store or the big box store in this area, then try one of those electrical/lighting supply shops of the kind that contractors go to. Be patient, be prepared to wait, and don't expect super-fast checkout - especially not in many areas where many of their customers are paid on-the-clock to have their orders rung up and where many customers buy hundreds or thousands of dollars of merchandise at a time. But with meerely reasonable patience, one can buy so little as one $3.50 compact fluorescent lightbulb or one 4-pack of incandescents at such places.
If you get 32 watt T8 bulbs, I do advise a couple points:
Keep in mind that I like 835/841 or SPX35/SPX41 more than fluorescents with color rendering index in the 90's for two reasons:
- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)
Just get fluorescent fixtures with "real deal" ballasts 9.5 inches overall length including the mounting flanges. Preferably better to get the fixtures with bulbs and ballasts from one of those electrical/lighting supply shops of the kind that contractors go to. Be patient there and thenm confirm that the bulbs are 32 watt T8, that the ballasts are electronic, and that the ballasts are either of "commercial grade" or "specification grade" as opposed to "residential grade". Also that the ballasts are not rated for both T8 and T12 lamps - I am more suspicious of ballasts that are supposed to be good for both because T8 and T12 have significantly different arc current.
Don't be afraid to pay more for fixtures that come with good ballasts and good bulbs. I think of cheap fixtures as being best for those who are up to buying good ballasts to substitute for the stool specimen ballasts that cheap fixtures all-too-often come with!
- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)
The lifespan isn't inherent to the supply voltage, it's more a consequence of the ballast and bulb quality. "Standard" residential dual-tube
4' fluorescents have _extreme_ price pressure, and that $15 fixture has lowest-possible-cost ballasts - reasonably decent replacement ballasts usually cost more than the whole fixture did.While it may seem silly to replace a failed ballast in a $15 fixture with a $25 ballast instead of simply buying another fixture, the result with the better ballast will usually pay for itself.
In industrial situations, there isn't quite the price pressure, the buyers are much more interested in longevity - the labor in replacing a bulb (not including the bulb!) might end up costing more than the fixture did. Sales of such units live or die by longevity and robustness.
You'd be hard pressed to save any _installation_ money with decent fixtures (at any voltage, including perhaps slightly simplified less costly wiring) compared to el-cheapo $15 120V units. But you'd probably kick yourself later for picking the real cheap ones. Especially in cold zones...
Rather than focussing on voltage, you should be focussing on getting good quality fixtures _first_. It may be difficult sorting out which 4' ones are any good in the plethora of 120V systems, because price _itself_ isn't really the issue. Go for names or recommendations from electricians. Then decide if picking a different supply voltage will save you enough to be worth the slightly additional hassle.
An alternate approach is to go with 8' fixtures. They're sufficiently unusual in the residential end, that they don't suffer from the same price-pressure issues.
The main lighting in my shop is 120V 3 8-foot dual tube electronic ballast fixtures. In terms of light output, they probably cost about 2-3 times as much as the equivalent in cheapie 4' fixtures, but they're solid, reliable, and consistently _start_ at -25C (about -10F) and below. The bulbs are getting on to almost 10 years old now. Regular "cheapie" units seem have a 5 year lifespan in the same environment, even with a far lower duty cycle.
Incredible lifespan comes from not turning them off and on. I worked for a company that NEVER turned off the lights, there were no switches, you had to go to the circuit breakers to get them off. They were running for 20 years before the price of electricity and other pressures forced them to add timers to turn the lights off after hours.
During the 20 years that they were on, some of the bulbs were never changed. Occasionally the power would go out and then the weak bulbs would not light up and had to be changed out. Others survived until the timers killed them off quickly.
They probably also only put out a small fraction of their original light. ALL lighting fades over time!
Fluorescents can last long enough to barely glow. But of course they still use the same amount of power. If you can notice a difference in brightness just by looking at them it is probably time to change the tube.
RickR
all points I thought we assumed. not worried about instalation costs, but more of the overall cost savings. a ballast that cost $15 and has to be replaced 3 times is not effective compared to a $25 ballast.
another assumed issue, in a 40x80 shop, 4' bulbs seem downright silly.
this tagline sounds familliar, how long you've been posting lewis?
Standardization has some benefits. Many large warehouses, gyms, and stores are lit with 4' tubes. More, smaller sources make for less shadowing, an important issue for detail critical areas.
Many spaces with old 8' lamps are replacing them with 4' T8 tubes. 1/2 the tubes and ballasts, longer lamp life, less power!
The super-bright T5HO lamps are even replacing metal-halides in many big spaces. Due to their high output they require 1/4 the fixtures/tubes/ballasts and therefore less installation, maintenance and disposal. (4 lamp ballasts are big help also.)
Do the math for your case. Get some real costs from local suppliers. Check out the lamp and ballast makers web sites for tips and quickie calculators to compare options.
Richard Reid, LC Luminous Views
According to Tater :
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