I need to get a new door for my furnace closet. To cut down on
noise a bit I was thinking of getting a solid core one but I can't find
a 24" solid core door. Is that something I can find or should I just
settle with a hollow core closet door? If the later, are there any
sound-dampening materials I could use?
If it's gas or oil it still need to get air for it to burn properly. The
returns have nothing to do with it. If it pulls fresh air from somwhere
else, then you are O.K. It's not very pretty, but I have seen people line
the closet with insulation tacked onto the studs. Just make sure you get the
required clearance per the furnace specs....
The dent is on the outside right? (If it were on the inside this
would be easy.)
I don't know how hard it is to get a solid door.
I was going to suggest attaching something to the door to deaden the
shound, probably on the inside. I don't know what. but how about
putting something on the outside, which will cover the dent also. Or
you could put, or you could put on top of that, racks to hold food,
tools, whatever you need more space for. If this were loosely
attached it might add to the noise, but I'd have to hear the noise to
give a better prediction. And it doesn't have to be loosely attache.d
Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.
Remove dented panel.
Fill hollow space in door with stuff (Fiberglass, "Great Stuff," polystyrene
packing peanuts, styrofoam, dead cats, etc.).
Install new panel (to match room).
Re-hang door with original hardware, but add heavy-duty weatherstripping.
If this is original furnace, and door has a grill on it, then you
probably can not remove the grill. but you can put up a solid core door
with a grill in it. perhaps a better grill that will baffle sound better.
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
Thanks for the insight guys. I repaired the dent and applied about 3/4
inch carpet padding on the interior of the door. There's enough
clearance for it. And it actually does make a noticeable difference in
As far as enough air for combustion, I don't know how the door could
allow air in except around the seams between the frame and the door. So
I didn't put any padding around the outer edge of the door. It's not a
louvered door but a solid, hollow core. Think I'm safe?
It made sense to me. Solid - no openings such as a grill. Hollow -
As for "hollow core" it is a misnomer as they aren't hollow. They
have multiple strips of zig-zag cardboard type stuff in there.
> think I'm safe?
No. You should have outside combustion air coming into the room
it's not a very large room - don't make me look up the
formula, I'm sure it
isn't that big a room). 10 sq in high & 10 sq in
low openings for outside air
per 100K BTU. That air should not come
from a garage (where cars are parked),
outside is best.
You run the risk of making carbon monoxide.
And if not that, buy a 26 or 30" and cut it down.
Pay attention to what someone said about needed air. The return ducts
DO NOT supply combustion air unless they just dump into the closet vice
being plumbed into the ductwork as they should be. Without that you
are in for flameouts at best and a lot of cabon monoxide at worst.
It depends on how much room you have between the
door and the front of the furnace. If the space
is enough to not require a heat deflector, then
best solution is to tack carpet underlayment
(dense foam type) on the door. I put that on all
walls of my furnace closet and it made a huge
difference. But my furnace is a zero clearance
furnace on the sides and the back. I have a heat
deflector on the door so did not put anything on
If heat could be a problem then put attach a panel
of 3/4" plywood or even drywall to the door. Be
sure to attach firmly as you don't want to make a
drum. The weight will make a large reduction in
sound transmission through a hollow core door.
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