24" solid core door for furnace closet?

Hey, I need to get a new door for my furnace closet. To cut down on noise a bit I was thinking of getting a solid core one but I can't find a 24" solid core door. Is that something I can find or should I just settle with a hollow core closet door? If the later, are there any sound-dampening materials I could use?
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Before you seal up the door - how does the furnace get air? Is the air taken from an external vent or from indoor air. If the latter and you seal the closet, you'll choke the furnace.
Mike
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Furnace gets air from three returns. The current door is a hollow core door but it has a dent in it which is why I want to replace it.
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If it's gas or oil it still need to get air for it to burn properly. The returns have nothing to do with it. If it pulls fresh air from somwhere else, then you are O.K. It's not very pretty, but I have seen people line the closet with insulation tacked onto the studs. Just make sure you get the required clearance per the furnace specs....
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The dent is on the outside right? (If it were on the inside this would be easy.)
I don't know how hard it is to get a solid door.
I was going to suggest attaching something to the door to deaden the shound, probably on the inside. I don't know what. but how about putting something on the outside, which will cover the dent also. Or you could put, or you could put on top of that, racks to hold food, tools, whatever you need more space for. If this were loosely attached it might add to the noise, but I'd have to hear the noise to give a better prediction. And it doesn't have to be loosely attache.d
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foz wrote:

Remove door.
Remove dented panel.
Fill hollow space in door with stuff (Fiberglass, "Great Stuff," polystyrene packing peanuts, styrofoam, dead cats, etc.).
Install new panel (to match room).
Re-hang door with original hardware, but add heavy-duty weatherstripping.
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foz wrote:

If this is original furnace, and door has a grill on it, then you probably can not remove the grill. but you can put up a solid core door with a grill in it. perhaps a better grill that will baffle sound better.
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Thanks for the insight guys. I repaired the dent and applied about 3/4 inch carpet padding on the interior of the door. There's enough clearance for it. And it actually does make a noticeable difference in noise reduction.
As far as enough air for combustion, I don't know how the door could allow air in except around the seams between the frame and the door. So I didn't put any padding around the outer edge of the door. It's not a louvered door but a solid, hollow core. Think I'm safe?
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So you say it's solid and hollow. Does that make sense?
8-)
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You're right, that doesn't make much sense. I have a very hollow core door with no way for air to get in except at the seams.
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foz wrote:

It made sense to me. Solid - no openings such as a grill. Hollow - empty inside
As for "hollow core" it is a misnomer as they aren't hollow. They have multiple strips of zig-zag cardboard type stuff in there.
Harry K
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wrote:

Didn't you guys see my smiley? He said what he meant, and I would have said the same. It's still funny that something can be solid and hollow. Check out chocolate easter rabbits.

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foz Wrote: > think I'm safe?
No. You should have outside combustion air coming into the room (assuming that it's not a very large room - don't make me look up the formula, I'm sure it isn't that big a room). 10 sq in high & 10 sq in low openings for outside air per 100K BTU. That air should not come from a garage (where cars are parked), outside is best.
You run the risk of making carbon monoxide.
--
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He meant combustion air.
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you should be able to order a solid core 24" door from a lumberyard.
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marson wrote:

And if not that, buy a 26 or 30" and cut it down.
Pay attention to what someone said about needed air. The return ducts DO NOT supply combustion air unless they just dump into the closet vice being plumbed into the ductwork as they should be. Without that you are in for flameouts at best and a lot of cabon monoxide at worst.
Harry K
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foz wrote:

It depends on how much room you have between the door and the front of the furnace. If the space is enough to not require a heat deflector, then best solution is to tack carpet underlayment (dense foam type) on the door. I put that on all walls of my furnace closet and it made a huge difference. But my furnace is a zero clearance furnace on the sides and the back. I have a heat deflector on the door so did not put anything on the door.
If heat could be a problem then put attach a panel of 3/4" plywood or even drywall to the door. Be sure to attach firmly as you don't want to make a drum. The weight will make a large reduction in sound transmission through a hollow core door.
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