Appliances aren't fixtures. There is no code requirement that an
appliance must utilize the full Ampacity of the circuit it's plugged
into. An appliance that utilizes from 0-80% of the circuit's Ampacity is
I guess I should have included 240.5(1)
(2) expands on (1)
(1) Supply Cord of Listed Appliance or Luminaire. Where flexible cord
or tinsel cord is approved for and used with a specific listed
appliance or luminaire, it shall be considered to be protected when
applied within the appliance or luminaire listing requirements. For
the purposes of this section, a luminaire may be either portable or
Actually, in the case of a direct short in a lamp socket conected to
a 8 foot 18 guage zip cord the breaker WILL trip, and a fuse WILL blow
(15 amp). The cord may or may not show evidence of heat. I have had
it happen without any visible damage to the cord.
On Sunday, November 3, 2013 8:42:53 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
While what you did is a code violation, I agree it's incorrect to say
the breaker will never trip and imply it has something to do
with the range. What you did is extend a 50A circuit to a
receptacle to be used for the AC using 14-2 wire. We all agree
that's a code violation. But if the AC became a dead short,
the breaker would still trip before anything happened to the
wire. The danger is that if the AC has a partial short, or
someone plugs in some other load that is 45A,
then the wire can overheat and start a fire without the
That is right. A dead short on small wire will trip a large capacity
breaker and probably not harm the wire at all.
The problem is that as current is drawn the smaller gauge wire will heat
much faster than the correct size wire. It may take several hours to
several weeks or years before the smaller wire heats up enought to catch
things on fire, but it is possiable.
Also from what I get he put aluminum and copper under the same screws. They
heat and expand at differant rates. A good way to cause major problems.
The light turns on?
There's a big difference between a lamp cord, which is not really
intended to be protected by the breaker, and permanent house wiring.
Or am I misunderstanding what you did and you made an extension/adapter
cord with a range plug on one end and a 6-15R on the other? If the
latter that's more of a grey area; sounds like Not a Good Idea but I
can't 100% say it's against code. I'd have been tempted to put a little
box in line with the cord with one of those single gang fuseholders or
something in case the cord got damaged, although that in and of itself
would be an OSHA violation were it done in a workplace.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
The garden variety 15A duplex receptacle we use is rated 20A for both
halves together and for 20A wire through. (It certainly will be used
that way when connected to a 20A circuit.)
A 20A receptacle on a 50A circuit is a code violation (210.21-B-3).
Should be apparent that doing the same thing bu changing to a 50A plug
is also a violation.
Welders operate on a duty cycle, so code allows you to "downgrade" the
wire size from the listed amps of the unit, since the unit cannot be run
The outlet has to be labeled that it is specified for a welder, though,
so nobody plugs in a continuous-duty appliance.
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