10 foot transition from carpet and tile

I need to transition my carpet and tile.
I found some 6 ft transition pieces that I have used in the past.
But I am afraid if I butt these together the end joint will not be flush.
Any suggestions??
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On Wed, 21 Nov 2007 17:48:39 -0600, homebrewdude

Plane the transtion strip at the bottom and make flush - Worry about the wrong side :)
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homebrewdude wrote:

I had to transition 9 feet. I looked up "moulding (my city)" and found a place nearby.
I had to get a 12' piece and I think it cost about $13.00 including tax. This was cheaper than two 6' pieces at the big box store, but I did have to stain and varnish the raw wood. Add one dollar for that.
I wandered into their storeroom and was staggered. Piles of lumber, each about the size of a shipping container (guess why). Many of these stacks contained planks about 2' x 1' and the planks were 20 to 40' long. The piles were of Cypress, Ebony, Hickory, Mahogany, Oak, Pecan, Redwood, Cedar, Teak, Walnut, Zebra, and more.
I bet they even had pine.
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Was this a pre-made transition?
Or did you have to make it yourself?
HeyBub wrote:

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homebrewdude wrote:

Nah, they had every type of molding, transisitions, baseboards, casings, chair rails, crown molding, baseboards, handrails, siding, and door moulding imaginable. In any type of wood (from Balsa to Teak), in lengths up to about 40'.
If they didn't have what you wanted in stock, they'd punch it out by tommorrow (just had to change the knives on one of their milling macines and push a hunk of wood through it).
They've certainly got all the patterns you'd find at a big box store, except they come in different woods and a wide assortment of lengths.
Here's an example:
http://www.houstonhardwoods.com/moulding.php?Type=thrsm
I found this using "moulding+(city name)" You might also try millwork.
In my case, I had put down a parquet floor in the hall and vinyl tile in the breakfast area, about a 3/8" transistion. I could have used two 6' "standard" lengths, but I thought that, after all the work and expense of the two floors, I wouldn't settle for a patch job. In the process, I learned about the existence of millwork shops.
--- as an aside
I own a duplex. One side is outfitted as an office and I live in the other. I get one water bill, two electric bills, and two gas bills. I found out that the gas company has a minimum charge of about $15.00/month just to cover reading the meter, sending out a bill, and other overhead items. What gas you use is extra.
My son and I spent about an hour and $20 to connect the natural gas distribution systems of the two halves of the duplex, complete with cut-off valve. Come Monday, I'm calling the gas company and have one of the meters disconnected. That'll save about $180 per year!
And before anyone stomps their foot about not having a professional do the job, there are no leaks.
We used the Bic Lighter technique for checking.
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The soapy water technique is MUCH more sensitive to slow leaks, and is why the pros use it. A leak could be too slow to ignite with a lighter - mixes with too much air before it hits the lighter. But a slow leak can get worse, or, accumulate gas in an enclosed space after you've buttoned it up.
I suggest you retest it ;-)
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
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Chris Lewis wrote:

Glad to run into someone who knows about gas. Thanks for the tip.
Do you know where I can get those push-on rubber hoses to connect a space heater?
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Sorry, no, I'm not _that_ familiar with gas in Canada, let alone the US ;-)
I suspect your local gas supplier can suggest a source.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
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re: -- And before anyone stomps their foot about not having a professional do the job, there are no leaks.
Just curious...did you call the gas company on Monday? Did they disconnect the meter or did they stomp their foot about not having a professional do the job?
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