I'm considering thatching and resseding my lawn. A local equipment rental
showed me a machine by Classen
(http://littlewonder.com/turf-seeder-self-propelled.asp ) called a turf
seeder (he called it an overseeder) that he thinks I should use. When I saw
the arrangement of the blades - considering the machine drops seed first
then lets the 24 or so blades roll over them, my eyebrows rose; it seems to
me a lot of seed will simply fall on top of the grass and those blades will
miss them. It doesn't look like there's enough vibration to shake the seeds
down through the existing lawn and onto the furrows the blades create.
Is this a recommended way to get seed into a mature lawn that needs to
thicken to prevent unwanted weeds? Or should I rent a thatcher then this
machine to plant the seed when all the thatch is gone. The guy at the rental
agency says the machine will thach as well but not as much as a stand-alone
looking at, and I've heard they work OK as long as you stay within the
limitations of a slice seeder. We have a couple of the Ryan mataway's that
drop the seed behind the slice and they work very well on level soil away
from tree roots. Be sure to criss cross your job and go heavy with the
seed. I run 10 lbs/1000sg ft here in Ohio. (perfect time of the year to do
that here right now)
Steveo... I live in NEO also. What mix lawn seed do you use for an average
residential preestablished lawn and how much do you pay? I've been buying a
mix from a local grain elivator in Seville that I thought was fair. I'd have
to look up my records for the exact price but I remember at the time doing a
comparison and they won the race.
I'm taking a drive into Holms county today and will probably come across a
few places to buy seed and fertilizer. I'd like to have a benchmark. What
ferilizer composition do you use on lawns now and what's a fair price to
Purchasing your grass seed by price usually involves receiving seeds from
several species you'd most likely rather not have. Check for "other" on the
label. It may only say "2% other", but that can equal a couple dozen plants
per square foot of a, perhaps unwanted, species in the mix. Just food for
-Not one shred of evidence supports the notion that life is serious.
This is probably late for your shopping trip but at any rate, Jay. I use
Lesco 50/50 for most general sunlight applications. I pay less than $2 a
pound for it and it produces a steady product. (how much less than $2
depends on how many pounds I buy)
I'm surprised you're in the market for that much seed. Your op sounded like
a diy homeowner question. Should I tell you how much to charge for it too?
I left before your message arrived but as it turned out, I only got to Home
Depot. I though I'd run into a few grain elivators on the trip but I didn't.
Anyway, I did jot down the contents of several different bags I thought
might be appropriate. One is from Lesco; Premium Sun and Shade. The other
was Vigaro Sun-Shade Lawn Grass Seed Mix. Fifty pounds would put me around
$50. My experience with grass seed hasn't been something I crow about. I
love movin' earth with machines but I had plantin' and growin' stuff. I'm
sure I end up using a lot more seed than I have to. I've got about 2000 sg
ft. to reseed and I'm now thinking my best bet for success would be to
thatch it first (with a regular thatch machine, not that "thaching"
reseeder) to make sure I clear a good area under the top carpet of grass so
the seeds will take hold then either use that reseeder to plant (would seem
like that night be overkill though) or just a spreader (probably would
suffice) then cross my fingers. Comment? When would I furtilize and with
Whoops! That's more like $50 for 25 lbs., not 50lbs.
Here's the mix... though you're probably not interested with this new
Lesco Premium Sun and Shade. 25lbs for $53.47 $2.14/lb). 99.9% weed free.
We'll call this
Vigaro Sun-Shade Lawn Grass Seed Mix. $25.29 for 10lbs ($2.53/lb) . This is
Seed A Seed B
Standard Kentucky Blue 31.74 24.83
Greenville Premum Rye 30.74
Brittany Chewing Fescue 17.79
Shademark Red Fescue 17.54
? Creeping Red Fescue 19.44
Barlennium Perenial Rye 18.79
Ambrose Chewing Fescue 17.43
Premier II Perenial Rye 9.89
Barclay Perenial Rye 7.69
Other crop seed 0.20
Will that mix of ferilizer be sufficient to take care of the entire area I
reseed or do I
have to come back in October or Novemeber to feed with more phosphorous?
Help me out here, Steve. You mean I should reply at the end? My browser
always lands at the top so I just figured that's here I'm supposed to begin.
If there's an etiquette issue here that I've violated, I appologize. Just an
ol' country boy at heart.
question first, answer second.
the accepted usenet etiquette is to bottom post.
which means your reply goes after that which you
are replying to.
check your news reader settings [configuration] and
you should be able to select whether your reply begins
at the top or the bottom.
as for myself, I don't really care but some get so
very very upset when their rules are not followed
and therefore you hear the words TOP POST...
Jim - real Country Boy, living it!
That's kind of close. Both "all" top-posting, and "all" bottom-posting are
frowned upon, with the later being the lesser of two evils. By far, the
best format would be inline-posting. Addressing each point, in turn. This
makes for the easiest reading, especially for someone just joining a thread
that hasn't quite degenerated into something totally off-topic, heh.
Snipping text that's not relevant to your reply is also considered
"proper", when posting to The USENET. And, unless it's a group specifically
about HTML, then posting in HTML instead of plain text will usually bring
about a good scolding.
I don't believe that OE has the option. It's top-post or bust, for M$.
Although, I seem to remember hearing about OE Quotefix correcting this
issue. I don't go anywhere near OE unless I absolutely have to. It may be
something to look into. I know it fixes the way that OE borks quotes.
in line posting is more like carrying on a conversation.
however one needs to know how to protect the attribute
markers or the who said they said will become inaccurate.
much the same as following along in a conversation between two others.
yep, like sometimes when late to arrive I do wonder where the
thread got it's current subject header. OT.
it's a nice thing for slow dial up users with very little band width.
if your reader allows for the configuration option then set it
to HTML/plain text. doing so causes the HTML poster's post to
appear as an attached file. most always I never open them since
the attributes will be skewed with any attempt to reply.
cruel to send a new poster scurrying around seeking
the meaning of -HTH- [hope that helps]
you are a likable sort and every now and then you say
something which cracks me up. glad I'm not an egg.
I changed this one, since it had strayed completely OT. =)
Yup, or those that pay a certain amount per byte downloaded. Some servers
still operate that way.
Actually, quite a few newsreaders will still show the code by default. It's
best to use only plain text, IMO. HTML/plain text still bloats the message,
unnecessarily. Again, going back to your point about dial-uppers. =)
I disagree. It teaches them how to find out about acronyms, which run
rampant in chat as well as newsgroup postings. They usually find a good
acronym-definition site fairly quickly, and hopefully bookmark it. Or, they
find a newsreader that will give the definition onHover. =)
There are quite a few out there that would vehemently disagree with you, on
that point, LOL. I could care less. I've been doing the BBS/Newsgroup thing
for a long, long time, and will continue to do so, despite those that are
too thin-skinned to be here. =)
If I had a nickel for every egg joke I've seen.... =P
-Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach him to use the Net and
I like bottom posting for Usenet though, it seems to flow better top to
bottom in sequence. No problem tho.
Country boy here too so rock on with with your bad self. How did you make
out with your seed job, get er' done?
Well.... let's see if I get this right; bottom post. Not yet, Steve. I just
got in from a wallk around the lawn. Too damp to mow. Aerator and thatcher
arrive tomorrow around noon. I should have time to do it all if it doesn't
rain. Am splitting the cost with my next door neighbor so we've got all
weekend to complete the task. But.... 30 - 40 % chance of precip. Here in
Medina county, Ohio, that means it probably won't rain. I'm lookin' forward
to the exercise.
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