Help laying new turf...please!

So, I'm about to lift some turf and lay some new turf as well as extending the area. However, I'm very much a garden novice and have a couple of questions I'd like to ask you lovely people.
1. Do I have to add top soil to the area before laying the new turf? Or can I just add sand to the existing soil? (I have it on good authority that the garden soil is very fertile)
2. Do I have to do the ground preperation immediately before laying the new turf or can I do it the day before?
3. The area I'm using to extend the lawn has existing weeds. After removing the weeds should I use weedkiller on the soil or will this effect the new turf.
4. Away from the new lawn now - I'm also putting up some raised decking. I've cleared an area which was heavy with weeds. Should I put some weedkiller on the soil before laying a membrane or will the membrane be enough to keep the weeds at bay?
I would be very greatfull if someone would be kind enough to provide me with some advice on these issues.
--
jamie23


Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
jamie23;929437 Wrote: > So, I'm about to lift some turf and lay some new turf as well as > extending the area. However, I'm very much a garden novice and have a > couple of questions I'd like to ask you lovely people.

> can I just add sand to the existing soil? (I have it on good authority > that the garden soil is very fertile)

> new turf or can I do it the day before?

> removing the weeds should I use weedkiller on the soil or will this > effect the new turf.

> I've cleared an area which was heavy with weeds. Should I put some > weedkiller on the soil before laying a membrane or will the membrane be > enough to keep the weeds at bay?

> with some advice on these issues.
hi, go over it with a rake to get a fine level tilth,the day before is fine.probably better to spray then remove them in a couple of weeks,or just hand weed, no point in weed killer once theyre out.
regarding the membrane, it depends on the type of weed, but really you should spray and leave them to die down for a couple of weeks before putting it down. or pull them out, some weeds like brambles could pop through. also some membrane is better than others.
--
fletcher


Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
You need to ensure that the ground you will be laying onto is weed and debris free, best done by going over a few times with a rake.
Following this, your lawn needs to be as level as you want it to be, as you don't want a wonky lawn! You will need to ensure that as your raking the soil, you need to treat it with a good quality fertilizer and a good water, and then it is ready to lay.
When laying the turf, you need to ensure theres a certain amount of pressure to the turf sits nicely on your soil, and its always best to tap it down by laying a plank of wood across the joints in the turf and tapping it with a hammer to ensure its packed.
Last thing to do puncture a few holes in the top of your turf (most people do this with a rake), and you need to sprinkle some good quality topsoil over the top of the turf, followed by brushing it in with a fine sweeping brush!
Hope this helps!
Matt
--
gardenermatt

Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Jul 12, 4:06 am, gardenermatt <gardenermatt.

I can just see doing this on a 5000 sq ft lawn. Must be a real joy. And the point to making holes with a rake is?

That sounds about as useful and practical as the previous step. Ever see pros do either of these?

Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net said:

Ever see anything worthwhile come from Gardenbanter? =P c'mon man... get a newsreader. You're still the only G2 poster that I upscore. =)
--

Eggs

-I started out with nothing... I still have most of it.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I don't use a newsreader because I access newsgroups from different locations. Hence I find Google Groups to be both easy and suited to my needs. Another reason some people use GG is that they want to access groups from places that don't allow installation of any or certain software, eg corp environment.
I'm still picturing a guy running around a 5000 sq ft lawn, beating it with a rake to make holes in new sod.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net said:

There's plenty of portable newsreaders around. You could just keep it on a flash drive. If you're someplace you can access G2, you're someplace you can plug in a flash drive.

And, not lifting the sod in the process! =)
--

Eggs

One nice thing about egotists... they don't talk about other people.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Eggs Zachtly wrote the following:

It's a wonder that this thread has gone on so long without someone repeating the same solution for any unwanted critter so, with tongue in cheek, I will rsurrect it. How about a gun?. :-)
--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
If you get my message regarding this post, please ignore. It was meant for the wasp nest question above.
Eggs Zachtly wrote the following:

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
willshak said:

I was wondering. It seemed a bit excessive, for both dealing with someone beating 5000 sq ft of sod with a rake, and for someone posting from Google! =)
--

Eggs

-A conscience is what hurts when all of your other parts feel so good.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Assuming there is such a thing as a portable newsreader that doesn't require installation, why exactly should I or anyone else carry it around on a flash drive? Just because you have a hardon against GoogleGroups and insist that everyone must use only what you like?
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net said:

Calm down, man. Just a suggestion. And, it's not just me. The regular users in every group I frequent are leaning towards killfiling Google (or have already done so). Not because of the posters, but because Google has broken things so badly, in their portal to usenet (as has gardenbanter and countless others). I merely pointed out that your argument about using it because you "access newsgroups from different locations" was pretty much invalid. It's all good. I always enjoy your posts. You're one of the few in this particular group that actually knows what they're talking about. =)
Cheers trader. Stay cool in this unforgiving heat. =)
--

Eggs

They told me I was gullible.... and I believed them.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

What exactly has Google broken? I have no problem accessing the groups I follow and doing what I want. I do see some people pissing and moaing about a lot of spam posts originating from Google. But if it were not Google, they would just find somewhere else to post from. And I have no filters rejecting Google posts and don't have any problem just skipping the spam.
I

Maybe invalid to you, but not to me. I don't see the need to carry around a flash drive with a portable newsreader when I can just access the groups through google from anywhere. An example being airport lounges that just have a screen, keyboard and mouse. Not 100% sure they don't have a USB port somewhere, but I've never seen one in the American Airlines lounge.

Thanks for the kind words. I feel the same about you and your posts. For the most part it's amazing how many clueless people there are here giving out all kinds of wrong advice. Sometimes I wonder why I bother looking here....

Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
jamie23;929437 Wrote: > So, I'm about to lift some turf and lay some new turf as well as > extending the area. However, I'm very much a garden novice and have a > couple of questions I'd like to ask you lovely people.

> can I just add sand to the existing soil? (I have it on good authority > that the garden soil is very fertile)

> new turf or can I do it the day before?

> removing the weeds should I use weedkiller on the soil or will this > effect the new turf.

Ok people if we can get away for petty bickering and actually assist the OP with his query?
THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO LAYING A FLAT USABLE TURF LAWN:
This would be my take: 1/ Treat the area for weeds, digging them out may leave a broken tap root which will come back to haunt you. Remove stones etc and get the area reasonably level. Don't worry about it being perfectly level now as we will take care of that shortly.
2/. Spread *sharp (plasterers)* sand over the area to a depth of 2-4 inches.
3/. Hire a vibrating plate (the flat bottomed type not the trench type, the hire centre will know what you mean) Dont skimp here and try to compact another way; forget rollers and stamping, it's the 21st century and this piece of kit will make the difference to your lawn. Should be around £20 for the day.
4/. Go over the area with the vibrating plate to compact the sand, 2x passes no more. It will be very uneven now but don't worry about that.
5/. Get a straight edge, at least 6-8' and STRAIGHT, no flimbsy bits of wood. A good 4x2. at least. DON'T try to do this with a rake, believe me your eye is not that good!
6/. Go over the area shaving off the highpoints and add the 'shaved off' sand to the depressions, use additional sand for the lowpoints as required.
7/. ONE more pass with the plate.
8/.Use the straight edge again to shave highpoints and highlight any remaning depressions.
9/. repeat step 7.
10/. If you have dont this right you should have a perfectly flat area, compact enough to actually walk on (within reason, be careful) without disturbing the ground.
11/. Give the area a very *LIGHT* rake, even a grass rake would be sufficent, you only want to tease the surface, no more.
12./ Lay your turf neatly with no gaps (don't water it first) using the straight edge to to 'butt' and ensure tight joints but don't damage the edges. Once laid water in and the expanding turf will ensure a tight fit. No tapping beating thumping required as you have a perfectly flat surface to work with!
You can now walk on your new lawn, no waiting, no nonsense. Ensure that you keep the lawn well watered for the first couple of weeks to prevent shrinkage and bad-a-bing you're finished.
If you followed the steps correctly there will be no depressions or peaks appearing and you lawn will resemble a golf course and not an obstacle course!
As a footnote if you want to go over an old lawn for the easiest route, apply a kill everything type weedkiller. Once the lawn and weeds have died (leave it for a week) cut and strim down the grass short; water thouroughly and leave for a day (you don't want to work in mud). Clear away debris then follow the steps above. This way no tilling, no back breaking weeding; why make it hard for yourself?
Good luck with the lawn...
--
Samuel


Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

See what I mean Eggs?
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.