Chain Saw Recommendations

[A. Pismo Clam]

Hello All,

I've got about 100 dead avocado trees that are eyesores. I'm looking for a 14" or 16" chain saw that can help me prune back the limbs.

If anyone can recommend the saw that they currently use or have used, I would be most grateful for the help!

Alan

[JB]

I've used the same 18" Shindaiwa chainsaw for more than 15 years now and it runs just great. I'd buy another if I ever needed one.

[Stubby]

MacCullough is out of business. But there are many for sale.

A. Pismo Clam wrote:

[Art]

Stihl. You can't go wrong.

[Srgnt Billko]

Stihls really whine. If you go with them you had better wear ear protection. The cheap McCollughs aren't nearly as loud.

[Tomes]

"A. Pismo Clam"

[Jim]

the Shindaiwa is a fine product.

[ecarecar]

What's good to sharpen a chain?

I have had the best results with just a round file.

Tomes wrote:

[Tomes]

They make a kit for this, although I have not had one. Maybe that could be a Christmas present idea... The thing is that you want to get a few dimensions right, not just move the arc back. I take mine in at $6 each. Anyone wish to comment on self sharpening? Do you use a kit, is it easy, how is it done? Tomes

[Mel M Kelly]

I have had good luck with Echo. There is some nice ones on eBay now. Also I have had a sharpening service for over 30 yrs. It is OK to sharpen with a round file 2 or 3 times then take it in and get the angles right and the drags taken down to proper setting. The chain can't cut if the teeth can't get to the wood. A sharp chain makes the saw and the operator last longer. I also heat with wood and do my own cutting.

From Mel & Donnie in Bluebird Valley

[Chas Hurst]

Evry one I know that uses a chain saw sharpens it themselves. The owners manual should give instructions, or search the internet.

[Art]

Sharpening with a round file is fine. You don't need a kit. Some tips - push back on the file not down, use the right size round file (most homeowner saws 18" and smaller will use a 5/32", most pro saws will use 7/32"), keep several chains and try to keep them all sharpened, keep it sharp, don't wait for it to get dull, At the point that a chain won't cut anymore it usually needs to be sent to a shop where it they will use a chain grinder,

and the absolute most important tip is to NEVER let the chain hit the dirt while cutting.

[Art]

and of course I left out the obvious which is to follow the existing chain angles as closely as possible.

[Jim]

I was glad to see you follow-up with that last addition of critical information.

it's a whole lot more than most would ever want to know. oregon chains are ok and oregon has the technology correct on these web pages.

for the best possible chain the word is STIHL!

[Joe]

Some good pointers..

Stihl's website has everything you need to cut wood..

Read the PDF's..

I have 2 stihl's a MS250C and KM110R.. Never had any problem..

I use the yellow "ripper" chain.. High kickback but will cut wood like not other..

Must wear hearing protection!!! I use my shooting muffs work great!!

buy the FaceMask/Muffs combo.. Worth their wieght.. if you dont' trust me then ask the guy who got a 1/2" chip in the cheek!!!

I use a round file for the chain.. Stihl chains has a "laser mark" that shows you the angle to file.. File parallel to the mark.

I could not tell you how valuable a good chain saw is...

I have MS250C 18" Bar

2 - Yellow Chains File Kit 1 - Stock green chain..

I have not used the green chain since i bought the saw..

I have sharpened the chain after everytime I use and rotate chains for wear..

Stihl has the "recommended" wear cycles.. IT'S WORTH IT!!

[Jason A Piwowar]

Stihl! I'll never own another brand of handheld equipment, no matter what the price. You can always get parts and service for Stihl.