Wiring a Carrier Infinity thermostat

power outages cause the thermostat to require configuation...media type, humidifier type, etc. If this is not done, the hvac does not come on. It just waits for someone to configure the thermostat. The tstat does not take a battery. Any ideas? Aabob
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wrote:

    Avoid power outages.
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Plug the air handler/furnace into an UPS with external batteries, the APC SUA2200XL would work nicely. When the power fails turn off the system ASAP to save the battery life then turn it back on afterwards when power is restored. This means you still have to fiddle with the T-stat but at least it is just "flipping a switch" instead of reprogramming it.
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On Sat, 3 Sep 2011 23:35:04 -0500, "Daniel who wants to know"

    Ya beat me to the idea, but you got it wrong. You have to feed just the control circuit, not the rest of the AHU ( like the fan or heat strips )

No need for all that - the control circuit doesn't draw that much power.
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I thought about that but wondered if the control board would go into lockout mode when nothing responded to its commands, IE the pressure switch on the draft inducer. If it did it requires a power cycle of the board and then you are back at square 1.
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On Sun, 4 Sep 2011 22:25:26 -0500, "Daniel who wants to know"

    Good point, could be.
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Why you purchase something that you don't know what to do with

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meone to configure the thermostat. The

I am sorry that is very hard to swallow
Any ideas?

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Some of the serial controlled controls DO NOT have batteries, they have an E-Prom and memory chips that are supposed to remember what all the settings are. If it goes to default settings when power is lost, there is an issue with either the control itself or one of the other mother baords in the system. There is a reason I don't install new systems using the serial control wiring.
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wrote:

    Do they still use that cheesy 3 conductor flat strip bullshit that pushes in to their crap connector slot ?
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Most of them are using pin and socket type connector strips between the wall plate and control head.
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wrote:

    And behind that ? They used to use some BS clear flat plastic ribbon crap .....
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They do on the cheap ones folks get from the big box stores, but not on the Honeywell controls that I use.
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Yes that is true but it requier dc voltage for burn in configuration/program unless it comes from factory inbeded which I don't believe it does!
they have an

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now how come I did not think about that

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