Superheat is not a fixed number in a cap tube system. (FWIW, maybe you
would be better off not telling those who ARE trying to help you, that
they're wrong when you yourself are still not sure what is what.)
The wiring looks awful.
Ken, there is a metal plate tack welded onto the compressor that has
numbers stamped into it. If you would post all the info on that tag. As a
WAG, this may be a butchered unit from the start and not have the proper
If you didn't do the hacking, who mangled the cap mount, and what exactly
keeps the cap and hard start pack from going exactly where they want. Also,
what's the evaporated metal on the right hand side of the hard start? Did
you or someone else replace the condenser fan motor at some point, or did
you replace the start cap with a dual cap because that's all you could
scrounge? While we're looking at the cap.... is that the remnants of a
flashover on the right hand terminal? And, is the red wire on the center
terminal another piece of your handiwork?
Leave it the way it is and you will...the flashover burns are all over the
Unless I am gone totally blind, on the capacitor, you have the red wire
going to the common terminal, as well as *BOTH* hard start wires, and the
compressor wire to the *FAN* terminal.
DUHHHHH Gee, I wonder why its not working.
Call somebody that knows what their doing, before you end up as a Darwin
Award nominee..... on second thought........
You've not blind - I thought that too, but I enlarged, and looked really
closely at the pic, and you can see the right spade on the left terminal has
nothing on it. The 14 or so guage red wire is on the left spade of the
center terminal, one of the wires from the HS is on the right spade of the
center terminal, the other is on the left spade of the right terminal, and
the white comp wire is on right spade of the right terminal. As to what this
cap really is, who knows. The marking near the left terminal looks to be H
R2, and the marking near the right terminal can't be made out, but does
kinda look like FAN. Just think... the hard start is doing all the work ; ).
Anyway, look at the right terminal at about the 1 o'clock position, and you
can see what appears to be the remnants of a flashover, all the way up to
the crimp on the can (BTW: I didn't say burn). He's got major nicks on the
insulation of several of the wires that we can see, and the ring terminal on
the red wire for the comp on the left side of the contactor looks like it's
been hot as well. For a good laugh, look closely at the strand or so of wire
going in to the spade terminal on the L2 terminal on the hot side of the
contactor. (just above the chunk of missing insulation on the black wire).
Come on Ken, tell us the truth.... this picture is of something that you
found out for the garbage someplace.
<sigh> Its a combination of things.... the biggest problem is the ignorance
of the owner.
What works on paper doesn't necessarely work in real life.
You are only giving us half of the story......... Call a local *PRO* not the
lowest bidder. We have already seen *your* work.
So, why do you come here? For you and your buddies to jerk each other
off and make nasty insults to people who come here for help? You
think of this as a video came with real people?
As for "seeing" my work you haven't "seen" a damn piece of my work.
I'll say AGAIN everything you *see* in that picture was done by a
"Pro". NONE of it was done by me. So you know what I get by hiring
the likes of you and know why I now try to fix it myself.
Do you come here to spew out bile, because if you did it to someone's
face they'd wax the street with you?
I run across your kind of BS on an all too regular basis, then they expect
me to fix their screw-ups for free. If you had called a *competent* tech in
the first place, you wouldn't be having these problems now. I figure that
you got the unit installed by the lowest bidder and it hasn't been right
since day one. You yourself said that the guy screwed with it for 10 years
till the warranty was up and never did correct the cause.
Before you start slinging stuff I don't want to step in, please consider
that those of us that are professionals, see this all the time. I don't have
a problem with walking away from a job. I *do* have a problem with people
that are not professionals, without the training, education, and experience
messing with stuff they really have no business screwing with. I have even
less tollerance for for hacks and guys that "do it on the side".
I have been posting on this news group for as many years and my killfile is
full of folks that get pissy when they don't get told what they want to
hear..... care to join them??
Hey, don't get snotty with us! You put up with these fucknuts doing the same
thing for 10 years because you are a dufus, now you want it fixed for free and
fast. I'm surprised these shitbirds haven't sold you a new system.
If the steering column in your Yugo burnt up every six months don't you think
you'd find another pep boys to take it to? Christ they're so lazy by this time
that don't even clean the smoke off the windshield and snicker when you go into
the store to buy more rags and windex...
Tekkie "There\'s no such thing as a tool I don\'t need."
Could be... If the compressor is spending alot of time in locked rotor cause
it doesn't start properly, it could account for everything. Do all three
burn off, or just two. How's the compressor wire look on L1 on the
compressor side of the contactor? Is it all toasty like the red one? You
said you are replacing a few inches of wire every time it cooks. Maybe the
burning off is starting at the end that you are spicing rather than at the
compressor terminals - hey, it's toasted all the way up to the contactor.
Replace the whole length of wire. After you do a hack.. er, I mean a splice
job, do you check the wires after the compressor runs for a while to see if
they're warm / hot, or do you just wait for thermonuclear meltdown? What's
the line voltage drop to during start? What does the line voltage drop to
across the run windings during start AT THE COMPRESSOR TERMINALS.
The big question is... Why did you put up this for ten years while it was
...........and where are you now?
Now you will most likely get to replace the compressor on your dime
because you have let yourself, your buddies and some supposed
"company" work on a unit in which none of you had a clue about. The
terminals are now futzed beyond repair and you get to replace the
compressor, contactor, drier, run cap, refrigerant and any start
components. Or you can replace the whole outdoor unit and indoor coil.
Dont worry, It'll only sting a little.
Only one. The other two scorch but don't burn off. T1 burns off
(this is the lead also connected to the capacitor). The lead from the
capacitor to the compressor is the second worst burned. It has the
insulation melted for about an inch from the compressor terminal, but
the wire has not burned off. T2s insulation is scorched about 1/2"
from it's compressor terminal (this is the lead that goes only to the
I didn't follow that. What toasty red one? If you are looking at
the picture, it was only for the purpose of clearly defining what I
meant by the Super-Boost. It is an older picture taken before I
replaced all three compressor wires with Term-Loc wires. There is no
evidence of scorching or burning except near the compressor terminals,
in the way explained above.
There are no splices. I cut off the burned end back to bright copper
and stake on a new connector.
Can't just ask the question without the jab?
Yes, I've checked the wires after the compressor has run for 5+
minutes. They're cool (ambient) right up to 2-3 inches from the
I haven't measured these. I will do so and report back.
I do appreciate your help and suggestions.
To be clearer, instead of:
"(this is the lead also connected to the capacitor)"
it should probably read:
"(this is the lead from the contactor terminal that is also connected
to the run capacitor)"
Ken Hall wrote:
Jesus Christ! The fucking thing isnt wired correctly for fucking
sakes! Pay comeone who knows WTF they are doing, replace the
contactor, burnt wires, test and if needed replace the cap, (thats a
run cap BTW not a start) and wire the mother fucker right. The
compressor is a PSC motor and so is the damn fan motor. Look up PSC
motor wiring and all will become clear. Problem over now get the fuck
out of here. Sheesh.
The incoming supply voltage at the contactor with the unit idle is
During start the voltage across the compressor terminals T1/T2 rises
to 143volts within less than 1/2 second. During this half-second my
meter reads out of range.
With the unit running:
the drop across T1/T2 fluctuates between 142-143v.
the voltage drop from the contactor terminals to the end of each
lead T1 and T2 is about 0.1volts.
the drop across the contactor contacts is about 0.05volts for
There's part of the problem.... You're about a hundred volts too low. For a
residence - assuming non delta (of any variety) - you should be around
220-250 volts. I can only assume you made an error during your measurements,
your meter is broken, or you made a typo. It ain't gonna start at 143 volts.
Also, someone else here asked for the data from the label / plate on the
compressor in order to do some research...... Model, LRA, FLA, etc.
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