What Causes Compressor Leads to Burn Off of Terminals?

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wrote:

capillary tube
-- Ken
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Superheat is not a fixed number in a cap tube system. (FWIW, maybe you would be better off not telling those who ARE trying to help you, that they're wrong when you yourself are still not sure what is what.)
The wiring looks awful.
Ken, there is a metal plate tack welded onto the compressor that has numbers stamped into it. If you would post all the info on that tag. As a WAG, this may be a butchered unit from the start and not have the proper start/run components.
-zero
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keeps the cap and hard start pack from going exactly where they want. Also, what's the evaporated metal on the right hand side of the hard start? Did you or someone else replace the condenser fan motor at some point, or did you replace the start cap with a dual cap because that's all you could scrounge? While we're looking at the cap.... is that the remnants of a flashover on the right hand terminal? And, is the red wire on the center terminal another piece of your handiwork?
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The people who installed and maintained the unit for 10 years did all of those things.
I don't see anything that looks like burns on the capacitor.
-- Ken
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wrote:

Leave it the way it is and you will...the flashover burns are all over the contactor.
Unless I am gone totally blind, on the capacitor, you have the red wire going to the common terminal, as well as *BOTH* hard start wires, and the compressor wire to the *FAN* terminal. DUHHHHH Gee, I wonder why its not working.
Call somebody that knows what their doing, before you end up as a Darwin Award nominee..... on second thought........
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wrote:

You've not blind - I thought that too, but I enlarged, and looked really closely at the pic, and you can see the right spade on the left terminal has nothing on it. The 14 or so guage red wire is on the left spade of the center terminal, one of the wires from the HS is on the right spade of the center terminal, the other is on the left spade of the right terminal, and the white comp wire is on right spade of the right terminal. As to what this cap really is, who knows. The marking near the left terminal looks to be H R2, and the marking near the right terminal can't be made out, but does kinda look like FAN. Just think... the hard start is doing all the work ; ).
Anyway, look at the right terminal at about the 1 o'clock position, and you can see what appears to be the remnants of a flashover, all the way up to the crimp on the can (BTW: I didn't say burn). He's got major nicks on the insulation of several of the wires that we can see, and the ring terminal on the red wire for the comp on the left side of the contactor looks like it's been hot as well. For a good laugh, look closely at the strand or so of wire going in to the spade terminal on the L2 terminal on the hot side of the contactor. (just above the chunk of missing insulation on the black wire).
Come on Ken, tell us the truth.... this picture is of something that you found out for the garbage someplace.

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So, is this causing the leads to burn off the compressor terminals?
-- Ken
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wrote:

<sigh> Its a combination of things.... the biggest problem is the ignorance of the owner. What works on paper doesn't necessarely work in real life. You are only giving us half of the story......... Call a local *PRO* not the lowest bidder. We have already seen *your* work.
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wrote:

So, why do you come here? For you and your buddies to jerk each other off and make nasty insults to people who come here for help? You think of this as a video came with real people?
As for "seeing" my work you haven't "seen" a damn piece of my work. I'll say AGAIN everything you *see* in that picture was done by a "Pro". NONE of it was done by me. So you know what I get by hiring the likes of you and know why I now try to fix it myself.
Do you come here to spew out bile, because if you did it to someone's face they'd wax the street with you?
-- Ken
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I run across your kind of BS on an all too regular basis, then they expect me to fix their screw-ups for free. If you had called a *competent* tech in the first place, you wouldn't be having these problems now. I figure that you got the unit installed by the lowest bidder and it hasn't been right since day one. You yourself said that the guy screwed with it for 10 years till the warranty was up and never did correct the cause. Before you start slinging stuff I don't want to step in, please consider that those of us that are professionals, see this all the time. I don't have a problem with walking away from a job. I *do* have a problem with people that are not professionals, without the training, education, and experience messing with stuff they really have no business screwing with. I have even less tollerance for for hacks and guys that "do it on the side".
I have been posting on this news group for as many years and my killfile is full of folks that get pissy when they don't get told what they want to hear..... care to join them??
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Ken Hall posted for all of us...

thing for 10 years because you are a dufus, now you want it fixed for free and fast. I'm surprised these shitbirds haven't sold you a new system.
If the steering column in your Yugo burnt up every six months don't you think you'd find another pep boys to take it to? Christ they're so lazy by this time that don't even clean the smoke off the windshield and snicker when you go into the store to buy more rags and windex...
--
Tekkie "There\'s no such thing as a tool I don\'t need."

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wrote:

Could be... If the compressor is spending alot of time in locked rotor cause it doesn't start properly, it could account for everything. Do all three burn off, or just two. How's the compressor wire look on L1 on the compressor side of the contactor? Is it all toasty like the red one? You said you are replacing a few inches of wire every time it cooks. Maybe the burning off is starting at the end that you are spicing rather than at the compressor terminals - hey, it's toasted all the way up to the contactor. Replace the whole length of wire. After you do a hack.. er, I mean a splice job, do you check the wires after the compressor runs for a while to see if they're warm / hot, or do you just wait for thermonuclear meltdown? What's the line voltage drop to during start? What does the line voltage drop to across the run windings during start AT THE COMPRESSOR TERMINALS.
The big question is... Why did you put up this for ten years while it was under warranty?
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Because my only other option was to pay for repairs that were supposed to be under warrenty.
-- Ken
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On Sun, 01 Oct 2006 15:19:45 -0500, Ken Hall

...........and where are you now? Now you will most likely get to replace the compressor on your dime because you have let yourself, your buddies and some supposed "company" work on a unit in which none of you had a clue about. The terminals are now futzed beyond repair and you get to replace the compressor, contactor, drier, run cap, refrigerant and any start components. Or you can replace the whole outdoor unit and indoor coil. Dont worry, It'll only sting a little. Bubba Bubba
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Only one. The other two scorch but don't burn off. T1 burns off (this is the lead also connected to the capacitor). The lead from the capacitor to the compressor is the second worst burned. It has the insulation melted for about an inch from the compressor terminal, but the wire has not burned off. T2s insulation is scorched about 1/2" from it's compressor terminal (this is the lead that goes only to the compressor).

I didn't follow that. What toasty red one? If you are looking at the picture, it was only for the purpose of clearly defining what I meant by the Super-Boost. It is an older picture taken before I replaced all three compressor wires with Term-Loc wires. There is no evidence of scorching or burning except near the compressor terminals, in the way explained above.

There are no splices. I cut off the burned end back to bright copper and stake on a new connector.

Can't just ask the question without the jab?
Yes, I've checked the wires after the compressor has run for 5+ minutes. They're cool (ambient) right up to 2-3 inches from the compressor terminals.

I haven't measured these. I will do so and report back.
I do appreciate your help and suggestions.
-- Ken
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To be clearer, instead of:
"(this is the lead also connected to the capacitor)"
it should probably read:
"(this is the lead from the contactor terminal that is also connected to the run capacitor)"
-- Ken
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Ken Hall wrote:
sniparoo
Jesus Christ! The fucking thing isnt wired correctly for fucking sakes! Pay comeone who knows WTF they are doing, replace the contactor, burnt wires, test and if needed replace the cap, (thats a run cap BTW not a start) and wire the mother fucker right. The compressor is a PSC motor and so is the damn fan motor. Look up PSC motor wiring and all will become clear. Problem over now get the fuck out of here. Sheesh.
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On Sun, 01 Oct 2006 17:09:38 -0500, Ken Hall

The incoming supply voltage at the contactor with the unit idle is 144volts
During start the voltage across the compressor terminals T1/T2 rises to 143volts within less than 1/2 second. During this half-second my meter reads out of range.
With the unit running:
the drop across T1/T2 fluctuates between 142-143v.
the voltage drop from the contactor terminals to the end of each lead T1 and T2 is about 0.1volts.
the drop across the contactor contacts is about 0.05volts for each contact..
-- Ken
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wrote:

There's part of the problem.... You're about a hundred volts too low. For a residence - assuming non delta (of any variety) - you should be around 220-250 volts. I can only assume you made an error during your measurements, your meter is broken, or you made a typo. It ain't gonna start at 143 volts. Also, someone else here asked for the data from the label / plate on the compressor in order to do some research...... Model, LRA, FLA, etc.
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Correction, typo 242, 243 and 244 volts respectively.
-- Ken
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