My water heater is leaking from the bottom today. There's a drop
falling every second or two so its failure is probably imminent. I
have called a plumber to come check it out this afternoon. I'd like to
know what to expect or any diagnosis you might have.
Capacity 40.0 gal
Input 40,000 btu/hr. Natural Gas
The above unit was made in 1997.
A replacement Rheem (appropriately named) unit will cost $897 installed
I called a few other places and the cost was about the same but it
would take at least a week. I've dealt with these people before and
would rather give them my business since they have always arrived the
same day to diagnose the problem.
I was going to say that the plumber will charge you $1000 installed, but
you could simply drive to Home Despot and pick up a new one and install
it yourself for $300.
So I was $100 off.
They're not that heavy you know.
And easy as pie to put in.
Real men know how to install replacement gas water heaters.
If you can attach a barbeque tank to a barbeque grill you can replace a
gas water heater.
I replaced exactly one water heater about 4 or 5 years ago - still
working just fine.
You would not need a torch to disconnect the gas line from your water
You shut off the gas valve in the line going to the water heater, then
you take a wrench and unscrew the coupler at the tank gas inlet.
Naturally, you'd drain the tank and close the water valves going to (and
coming from) the heater (if you have such valves) or you'd shut off the
main water supply. Then you unscrew the couplers and move the old tank
out of the way.
When I replaced my tank, I added a ball valve to both the incoming and
out-going side of the copper water lines going to the tank, to make
replacement easier the next time.
The gas input of the old tank matched exactly (in terms of height from
the floor) of the new tank, so I didn't need to rework the gas line.
Just move the new tank into position, screw the coupler back, turn on
the gas, spread a little dish-soap on the connection to see if it
bubbles, and the job is done.
That's what insurance companies like to hear after a house burns down.
They just walk away ... with their check book as full as when they
arrived ... while the code official writes a citation for installing
the unit without a permit.
The gas inlet is threaded pipe. The water inlet and outlets are also
threaded connections. Nobody makes gas water heaters with that don't
have threaded connections.
You show me a water tank that has short lengths of raw copper pipes
sticking out of the top. You won't, because you can't.
Same goes for the gas inlet. NO TORCH OR WELDING REQUIRED to hook up
the gas line, like BGM (the OP) claims.
Even if I did have to rework the iron gas line, it would be a simple
matter of screwing a few short lengths together, a 90-degree elbow or
two. But I don't see why you would have to - unless you wanted to
relocate the new water tank. It should have lined up with existing
Yea - that's something I didn't think of.
Your water heater doesn't move around, shake or vibrate like a clothes
dryer does. The use of a short flexible link to connect a gas water
heater is a much safer application of those flex lines than any other
gas-using consumer device.
What - do you expect every joint and elbow in the water distribution
lines in house is going to have threaded connections?!
What kind of bone-head are you?
The point of this discussion is that you people are claiming that it's
hard, oh so hard to connect a new hot water tank yourself because you
have to break out the torch and welder, because nobody uses threaded
connections, yet you completely miss the point that the most crucial
location (and really, the ONLY place you need or want to have threaded
connections) is on the friggin device or appliance itself. Why you
would want threaded connections or unions anywhere else makes absolutely
And if you want a threaded joint somewhere in a water pipe where it
currently doesn't exist, you cut the friggen copper pipe and solder one
on. If you can't do that, then what the hell are you doing reading and
posting to this news group? You should be reading rec.crafts.sewing or
baking or similar.
Actually it is a common occurrence in state like New York and
California. If you insist on doing your own work...Go get a permit and
have it inspected to cover your ass and to keep your family healthy.
Use a little common sense for crists sake!
But the average plumber, and most DIY installers, cheap out and
thread the connector to the water heater with pipe soldered to the
connector, then solder that pipe right to the water pipes in the
house. Saves them 2 unions at something like $10 each, and saves them
2 solder joints.
Didn't say they did. But they don't have unions on them either.
Different brand of water heater - and 24 years later. New one has
different gas valve and piezo ignitor, about 15 degrees of rotation
from the original in reference to the water pipe connections. About 6
inches difference in height too if memory serves me correctly - and
different diameter - so EVERYTHING had to be modified. No problem - I
had it changed in just over an hour - this wasn't my first prom!!!
On Wed, 21 May 2014 15:11:04 GMT, Scott Lurndal wrote:
An example from last month:
The fire broke out just after 10 p.m. Saturday
He said the family had replaced the water heater Saturday.
Yea, but it doesn't say if they did it themselves, or had a
"professional" do it.
But there's a bigger issue with that story.
Water heaters are supposed to have safety valves.
Even if there were shut-off valves on both the inlet and outlet - and
they were both shut off,
Even if the thermostat fails and calls for continuous heat,
The over-pressure valve is supposed to kick in and prevent a pressure
buildup (and tank explosion).
Also note that it doesn't say if the tank is electric or natural gas.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.