That's a Carrier stat. BTW, I'm trying to figure out exactly what your
question is, and best I can tell you're wanting step by step
instructions on how to hard wire the RV in. "Have your service tech"
put O under R instead of Y, at the stat. There are no warranty issues
because the system is already out of warranty. Do not attempt to
rewire the old stat or any other HP stat back in yourself, as a dual
fuel system requires extra controls that may or may not be installed.
OTOH, you might be interested in knowing that RV noise is normal,
excessive RV noise is not. You may have an indoor airflow restriction
or an overcharge causing excessive head pressure in HP mode. I don't
know your location, but in the Mid-South a HP is currently cheaper to
run than a natural gas unit. Some people find the normal RV noise to
be irritating, especially if the unit is poorly located. If this is
the case, then you might keep in mind that Carrier offers a unit with
a Quiet-Shift (TM) defrost board, especially for customers like you.
I'm a Trane dealer. Wiring the 24 volts to the reversing valve
solenoid will NOT void the warranty, especially if you do it at the
thermostat wiring connections on the outdoor unit. Just wire orange to
red at that point. Yellow will continue to work the compressor
contactor. Blue (Common) should always be connected. White can be
disconnected in this application. Looks like he installed a new high
efficiency gas furnace and indoor coil in place of the air handler.
Probably didn't like the HP discharge temperature in heat mode. He
wanted that warm feeling that gas gives him. Very understandable. He
already had the heat pump outdoor unit & used it over. Nothing wrong
with that. His dealer did a reasonable thing to use the heat pump
outdoor unit over if it is not too old. The noise is the real problem
here, unlikely that the reversing valve will stick. This is just a
simple control issue. He does not need to throw lots of money at it
buying a new condensing unit. On the other hand, if the outdoor unit is
15 years old, he should have been sold a new condensor by the dude who
sold him the new furnace. But don't complicate things, have the
furnace installer come back and rewire the controls. Remember, low
sound levels are part of comfort.
PS. If you turn the HP breaker off, turn it on 24 hours before you
start cooling to energize the crankcase heater so you will protect the
Thanks very much for the post.
The gas furnace was installed at the time the house was built. There
was a kickback from the electric company if a HP was installed instead
of a traditional AC, making it cheaper for the builder to install a HP
thn to install a traditional unit. I'm not sure why they still
installed a high efficiency gas furnace, unless there was a concern by
the builder about the perceived comfort issues you mention below. I
think they did not want to try to sell houses with electric emergency
heat, and if they were doing a furnace anyway... well do a decent one.
This is Houston, and gas furnaces are an extremely high percentage of
heat units, especially in moderate to expensive homes. Some entry
homes are all electric, and these have been going HP for a while. But
it is pretty rare.
Easy fix. Remove the Reversing valve and pipe the suction line directly to
the suction line going to the compressor and then pipe the liquid line where
that needs to go , now you have no heat pump. Install a contactor so it
will energize fan and compressor at the same time easy HUh?
It will work and no more discussion is really required. Or just bite the
bullet, donate your HP to a needy family or charity, take your tax deduction
for the price of the heat pump then have a friggin Ac installed. Both of
these will solve your problems.
This is a good idea, but costly compared to wiring 24V to the solenoid.
Still I appreciate the suggestion because if the valve ever does fail I
could simply have sections of tubing installed rather than having a new
RV put in.
This is a big deal, because installing an RV in the field is a PITA,
what with nylon parts in the valve so close to where the heating is
taking place. I've read that some techs will not even try to do it in
the field because of the difficulty in getting it done without screwing
up the valve internals.
If the reversing valve fails after 10 years, it is more economical
usually to replace the HP. In your case with a straight A/C condensor
for just cooling. Make sure your new condensor matches the indoor
coil, or replace it at the same time to match.
Are you using AC right now? If you want the rev valve permanently energized
without the swoosh of it swithing over, just wire one lead of the solenoid
to the red wire coming from outside, and the common wire outside. On a
heatpuimp you almost always have hot and common at teh defrost board. After
you dun the AC for the first time it should stay there. My idea of turning
off the breaker is I didn't think you needed ac yet. If you don't just turn
the breaker on when you are ready to use the AC. Rewiring the internal
controls of your HP voids all warranties.
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