talk about FUBAR....

gas fired infra-red heater, no big deal right? Try finding a honeywell gas valve # V444-1137. oh yeah, 120 volt coil on the damn thing. no pilot, no thermocouple, just gas in & gas out. Now find a 1/2" Allen wrench! Thats to take off the 1/2" brass union screwed into the discharge side.
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Call your local, COMPETENT..... oh, sorry, that would be you.
Transformer and step down that power, eh mate?
As for the blooming allen wrench, take a 5/16 - 18 bolt, turn it bass ackwards and cram the half inch head into the allen hole. Turn the stupid threads with a pair of vise grips, man! Learn to mickey mouse the stupid thing, like the rest of us hacks. Don't forget the rectorseal #5 and teflon tape.
http://www.adamkoford.com/Redneck.jpg
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And provide flame sensing how???

Why not just use the proper allen key?
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1) The OP didn't mention flame sensing. 2) Sometimes you don't have the right tool with you.
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How about your hvac instructor, when you were getting your license?? Did he mention anything like that????

You're an hvac tech and you don't have the proper tools for removing a plug on a gas valve?? How do check the main valve pressure?? Do you improvise a manometer too????
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Stormy learned that even without a flame sensor, the gas would eventually get ignited by something.
This is very true unfortunately, stormy. Why did it have to be mentioned?
Stormy has a manometer in his underwear; uses bulge size as a gauge. (only my opinion of course)
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DIMwit posted for all of us...

Well that means everything will be under pressurized.
On the other hand if you're talking about his vapor output bulge: Popcorn farts = under pressure. Beer & eggs satisfied = correct pressure. Toxic hell = overpressure. Pop up a wet one = thread sealant.
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We don't appear to be fixing NG overhead infared furnaces at the moment. We appear to be attacking someone else on the DG (with respect to Dave from Illinois.)
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We appear to be attempting to, once again, show you why it's necessary for you to THINK before you post about something you know very little about. As stated before, you need to learn the subject before you try to teach others. For some unknown reason, you seem to be incapable of absorbing that concept. You think these "attacks" as you call them, are because of your religious persuasion. They're not, at least in my case. I don't give a flying fuck if your resurrecting the Jones Town Cult. Understand this....you and your internet twin, Dildo, need to listen more and speak less. Personally, I have no pre-conceived bias towards your religion, but after reading your numerous posts, I am starting to wonder if all of your bretheren are as thick as you. In here, you represent Mormons through your own doing,and like it or not, and when you constantly post error-laden advice, you do your organization a disfavour. Simply put, you are causing your kind to look bad! Want to cast the Mormons in a better light? Don't try to teach a subject that you haven't yet learned. Peace.
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Bob_Loblaw posted for all of us...

Sure; he's a sucker so if he can overcome it - git 'r done!
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snipped-for-privacy@gonefishin.net wrote:

I think a gas-rated ASCO would work just fine in that app, Fish... if you can't located the Honeywell.
From what I've seen, I also believe Mike is right on the control side.
Heck, I've got a 1/2" Allen... doesn't everyone? My set goes to 7/8 as I recall. I also have metrics up to a 27, I think.....(-;
Then again, we need them for tightening up those biggie lugs on stuff.
Jake
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Jake posted for all of us...

Do you spit on your hands and wipe them to really get that extra yankability?
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Tekkie wrote:

Nah... I have a $350.00 Klein insulated OSHA approved three foot breaker bar.... you can 'break' some stuff with that, I assure you (-;.
Jake
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I've broken a few things with a rubber handle 25 incher. Yes, I'd guess you can snap a bunch of stuff off with a 36 incher.
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Soak it all good with WD-40 first. It really helps get it loose. It also helps it get tighter too. As a bonus, it makes it all waterproof!
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Oscar_Lives posted for all of us...

No no no, soak it in cider..
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I'm the only hvac tech I know who carries an allen that fits the main lugs in an electrical panel....same size as the really old suction service ports....anyway the local tool vendor had a nifty 1/2" allen for a 1/2' drive ratchet. Cost of the tool gets added to the job.
About the gas valve......seems that ALL oem parts in DAYTON (Grainger) products are oem for Dayton only. I didnt want to try any other valve than the oem one that works with the direct spark control module. .047 amp draw bla bla bla. I should have an oem replacement next week, a slightly dumbed-down version of the smart valve :))
gotta love that Honey well !!
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