Running fan continuously?

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Rod wrote:

We can cure that! How much do you want? It was still snowing the first of last week and rained until Yesterday. You just have got to love this damned Global Warming. ;-p
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Don Ocean wrote:

Too bad we didn't accept Kyoto. D*mn Bush!
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Too bad that the general public is now finding out the hard way about the Montreal Protocol, and its effects on their wallets in a country that is in a hell of a financial recession..... Do you really want to go to Kyoto?? What will Kyoto do to benifit John Q Homeowner?? or is it just gonna cost more money??
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...
Kyoto would be a great idea if Kyoto was a person or company that was able to clean the atmostphere
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CJT wrote:

Yeah! I would like to send him my last winters heat bill. And this summers gasoline bill... ;-p

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.
I'm very happy with our amount of snow. I don't know maybe we could trade some of our summer humidity for some of ya'lls snow. My youngest girl was 4 years old before she got to play in some snow (finally snowed this last winter). If ya'lls ain't a word please remember this is the South. We tend to talk a little different (and date our cousins). Did you guys hear about the governors mansion catching fire here? It almost burnt down the whole trailor park. ;-) Rodney Rodney
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KJPRO wrote:

Yes... Should be at least a foot above normal snow level and should be insulated so as not to freeze. We use Armalite, but only if our outlet is well below snow level and requires an extension to correct this.

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.

It doesn't look like it has any insulation -- appears to me to be ordinary PVC (3" or 4" diam.)
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Ted Lee
Minnetonka, MN
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Ted Lee wrote:

Keep an eye on it. In certain cold weather conditions it will freeze shut and the furnace will shut down. When it is well below Zero that can really irritate you. It is common practice here to insulate that. I cannot find it in the international code, but it is in our local codes and you get just as cold there as we do. A bit of Armalite can preempt any problems. Output temperature depending on length of vent can be as in the vicinity of 120F which full of condensate can freeze easily.

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Well, until proven otherwise I'll have to trust the installers know what they are doing (they've been in business here for a long time.)
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Minnetonka, MN
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If it's piped correctly, it will likely be ok.
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Termination has to be a minimum of 12" above any expected snow load. This is probably the reason for the parascope design.
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Ah, that makes sense then (yes, we can get snow easily several feet above the ground). Anything about how far out from the structure it has to be? If it has to be a significant distance, that would explain the foot-long or so piece of pipe at the end of the second elbow.
Ted Lee Minnetonka, MN
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Not sure about Trane, but ICP states it has to be no less than 8" from the structure.
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Ted Lee wrote:

A concentric exhaust kit would have been just a short stub and never freeze up. Maybe your contractor was trying to save you about $200 or more. Lowest bid sometimes omits certain bells and whistles. I am not aware of anything that has an S vent on it though. I am in South Dakota. If money is not a problem... You might consider changing to a Concentric system. It might cost more as it is not part of the original job. Vents are prone to freezing shut in this end of America if not protected properly.

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There are reasons for not using a concentric kit on every install... snow loads can limit the use of such items. Which I would guess is the problem in this case.
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KJPRO wrote:

Agreed.
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Ted Lee wrote:

Let me also add that in a concentric system combustion air intake is legal. in the entire continent at the system intake. Also Minnesota combustion air intake laws are the same as ours. I do a bit of work in all 5 surrounding states. 10 feet is not what the code is. Your contractor may have found it more convenient to have the second PVC pipe that far away. There is a lot of space used up putting in fresh air intakes, combustion air intake, Venting, Humidifiers, air energy transfer systems.
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The fresh air ("combustion air" they called it) comes through a 6" round duct -- some of it sheet metal, most of it appears to be a flexible black plastic or fiber. It is not a small PVC. And that was not an easy install -- they had to go a circuitous route paralleling the main support beam so as not to have to cut through any joists in going 10 feet away. Two other factors may be relevant -- the fresh air serves both the furnace and the water heater and we do have a gas dryer, all of which are in the same room in the basement -- it's possible it was the dryer vent they had to stay 10 feet away from. (I suppose the fresh air also serves the dryer.)
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Ted Lee wrote:

I am not sure what you have there.. Most high efficiency furnaces have one PVC pipe for exhaust gases out of the house and the combustion chamber is usually enclosed(Airtight) with another PVC pipe bringing in combustion air. In a tight home it is also necessary to bring in outside fresh air for human consumption. Which is many times brought in through an air exchanger system that takes the heat out of stale air and transfers it to incoming fresh air. That fresh air is blended into the warm air coming from the furnace throughout the home. Yes, it is necessary to have a certain amount of combustion air for Gas water heaters and Gas dryers etc. Many newer homes also have demand water heaters that are vented much like the furnaces. Indoor air quality is written into the codes to prevent sick house syndrome.
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