Running a 1/4 hp 220 VAC condenser fan motor on 110 VAC

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On 110 VAC it starts easily and runs quietly. Assuming it does the job, it would be preferable to run it this way.
Should I be concerned about overheating? Fire? Fuse protection?
It is located in the attic and if there is any doubt in using 110 VACI can easily hook it to 220 VAC.
The fan is not being used for a condenser. I am using the fan for an attic exhaust with the shaft horizontal.
The bearing will be lubed once a year with WD 20.
This is an interesting experiment.
The fan is blowing the air from the attic of one side of a duplex into the other side.
The supply air is coming from one side from the soffit vents and exhausted out the other side.
Hopefully this will cool both attics and cut down the electric bill. It seems to be doing the job quite nicely.
Advice, comments?
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You can *DO* what you want, but there is a reason motors are rated for specific voltages, amps, and RPM. I don't design them, so I defer to the data plates, as you should probably do.
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I think his post to the group got delayed because I found a picture of his house online already....
http://www.islandgazette.net/photo/pictures/images472004/P1010030.jpg
Here's yet another "interesting experiment" for him to try after he rebuilds the duplex.... http://www.zellersys.com/S1_Rewire/S1%20Wiring%20Project.htm
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You got fire insurance, correct?
Any children or elderly living in the units?
(What a dope.)
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a 220v ac motor is designed to operate at 220v not 115 volts. Believe it or not, operating that motor at 115 will most likely draw too much current and make the motor overheat. The exhaust air going over it to cool it may help, but it is dead wrong to run it at 115volts. The motor will try to run at its normal RPM, a factor of 60Hz and the number of poles the motor is wound for. Lets say it is a 2 pole motor; at 60 Hz, even though this is not made to be a synchronous motor, it will try to run at 3600 RPM.
It will more like run at and be rated at 3450 RPM or so due to normal "slip" at 230 volt operation. That will draw a certain current at 230 volts with the load. And, we are not even talking about the same load here.
1)When you try to run it at 115 volts, using the same load, it will try to achieve the same RPM, and at 115 volts, that RPM will require double the amps (sound strange, but true). If the windings heat up beyond the insulation class rating of the motor, it will burn up.
2) AC motors and transformers and other wound devices have inductive reactance which causes its impedance to the flow of AC current to be much, much lower than the DC resistance you would measure with an ohmmeter. The motors are designed to present this impedance to the flow of current at specific voltages that get the magnetic core at saturation design values. Operation at 115 volts will most likely not achieve this, and the motor may appear to be closer to the DC winding resistance value and draw lots of current converted into heat unless that saturation point is reached, but it will not be.
Those items 1 and 2 will try to make your motor fail and possible cause a tragedy in your life. It is not worth the experiment. Buy a unit designed to do what you need and run on 115v. I can't say it would be OK to run your setup at 230 volts either. Would your insurance company??
Using WD40 as a lubricant (WD20??) is not an ideal motor lubricant.
I have oversimplified the technical aspects of the motor, but I believe it to be pretty accurate as far as I went with it. Don't leave it running! You have been warned by many already.
Bob
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Bob,
FYI
http://www.wd40.com/Brands/3in1_product_info.html
Blue can: "It is a special blend of high-grade oils, equivalent to SAE 20. Its formulation is ideal for lubricating moving parts of electrical motors. "
( I meant to write SAE 20.)
I agree that running a 220 VAC motor with a run capacitor will draw more current proportionally then halving the voltage.
In a fan situation, the moving air will help.
After running for 9 hours, this motor did not overheat.
However, I will take you advice, and increase the voltage to 220 VAC.
Thanks
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So you fuck-up your facts, then turn and give him your "FYI-Allow me correct you" bullshit! What an ass.
WD-40, is WD-40.
3-in-1 oil, is 3-in-1 oil.
SAE-20 has two flavors. Try not to pick the wrong one.

Yea, it's just one mans advice. He just made that up through the years. It's just his opinion. How very graceful of you to put aside your all-knowing wisdom and apply his "advice". That's lovely!
Every time you ask a question to anyone, there first response must be "are you asking me or are you telling me?"
Stormy, will you please try to straighten this guy out!
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Thanks for the support Zero.
I was only trying to keep Stu from harm. When I think I can help somebody with what I do know, then I offer my help.
I do telephone tech support all day long on electrical/electronic machine controls, so I am used to people telling me many things. I have to sort all that out to figure out how to help them.
Regards,
Bob

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DIMwit posted for all of us...

Anyway let them talk until they stop. Ask a question and wait till they stop. Ask another question and so on. When they utter very few words they are worn out and receptive to what you ask and answers you give. Then they will either do what you want or do what they want; therefore they go on the defective list. Everyone has a story that they must unload before progress can be made...
--
Tekkie "There\'s no such thing as a tool I don\'t need."

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How true! I unloaded a while ago, and now I feel like progressing...

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Charmin
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"3-in-1 oil, is 3-in-1 oil."
Bull!
Heinz Ketchup, is Heinz pickles?
3-in-1 is a BRAND and not a product.
If you had taken 10 seconds to click on the link provided, you would have learned about the many 3-in-1 products.
Question: Have you or any of your associates ever seen a 1/4 HP run capacitor fan burn up and catch on fire on 110 VAC?
On another forum I have spoke to others who ran their 220 VAC motors for years. One guy ran them in a main frame computer room and the other in his attic. Both for years!
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What... Another attempt at deflection gone awry?
Didn't like your inadequacies made so openly transparent? Just,,, calm down, you'll be fine.

If I told you YES, would you really believe me or really give-a-shit?
"YES" is not what you want to hear, anyway. So wire it up.

And you need positive reinforcement from strangers to move forward on your little project. That's wonderful.
Wire it up and turn the switch already!
-zero
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Damn you idiot fool! do what the hell you want and stop looking for validation. I hope not to read about you in the news.
I am an electrician, not a HVAC tech. I told you what you need to know; the techs told you not to do what you did.
You can fry your food in 3 in 1 oil too if you want; maybe it won't hurt your giblets. why don't you try it and let us know.
there's lots of idiotic things people do and get away with until one day: a Darwin award is presented. http://www.darwinawards.com /
Life is scary enough without looking for trouble. Maybe you're a tough gang member who fears nothing?
Dimwit

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DIMwit wrote:

Only words, zero data.
You guys are the urban myth!
Any facts?

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"Running the motor at half voltage shouldn't pose a problem. 30 years ago we frequently did this to fan motors that were used in computer mainframes when it wasn't necessary to provide full cooling capacity and we never had a
problem with them. If the fan moves enough air to satisfy you, then there shouldn't be an electrical problem with it. The bearings, however, may fail after a few years of use because they were really designed to be used with the shaft in a vertical plane and not designed to handle a significant side load. "
This is an "expert" validation, not an opinion.
The naysayers are label readers with zero experiece outside the box.
Again: Have you EVER seen an AC fan burnt out running on half voltage? One?
"(and we never had a problem with them)"
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Who was the expert you qoute?
I never stuck an M80 up my ass either, but I am very sure It would be a disaster if I did and lit it. 0 experience on that, but an expert never the less.

No, I never saw one burn up, cause I never tried to be cheap and cool my house with a junk box spare part.
I have seen people smoking while they fuel their cars, but never saw one go up in flames. That is not to say it never happens either.
enjoy you(r) barbeque after you relish the electric bill savings and not having to buy the correct part.
by the way, if you were so sure you were right from the get go, why did you ask anybody?
Are you a dentist? dentists are the cheapest bastards I have EVER met.
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I will not quote any one of you some of you missing the point there for most of you are right but some of you are wrong you don't bother reading between the lines "SMILE" The motors as is been said that start with start capacitor or centrifugal switch on primary wining CAN NOT BE USED WITH REDUCE VOLTAGE, however the shaded pole and multi-tap winnings that use running capacitor or with out running capacitor CAN BE USE FROM APX. 20% of it's rated voltage to a full rated voltage, and you can use some of house light dimmers to control speed of the motor. the speed will not be linear but it will work those are the facts I did it and I have equipment that uses exact what I just describe. I know some of you will disagreed don't blame me because you lack experience. Dido

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Hold on a minute Dildo. I gotta go grab a big ol LSD pill and a couple pints and maybe, just maybe in a few hours I will be able to figure out just what the fuck that is that you typed down below. Bubba

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SIT ON IT thank you

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