Revised diagnosis, a/c freezing up

I just talked to the tenant in the house. He showed me where the outside ac unit was freezing. It's at the valve on the end of the insulated tubing going to the outside compressor unit. When it freezes, about every few days, the compressor is still running, but the air handler is not running. FWI: The syste3m is 9 years old, and ia a Goodman, Janitrol CKT 30- A3208 Any help is appreciated.
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Well Mr.Fins I am not AC person However I just can stand by and read all the crap! why don't you fix your air handler "fan" see that is running when comprssor is on and also make sure your filter is clean I bet 9-1 problem will be fix. if your air handler does not operate properly there is no load on cooling coil and eventually will freeze up and the suction to you compressor like wise. Tony

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On Mon, 04 Jun 2007 06:45:59 -0700

Fins,
I am assuming that you know for sure that the inside blower is not running - as opposed to just no air flowing through the ducts. If you have a situation where the fan is running, but no air is blowing, the evaporator has froze up and is blocking the air flow. Check/clean/replace the filters to ensure proper airflow.
Now, assuming that the inside fan is indeed not running at all, but the outside unit still is - a highly abnormal condition - here is my bet:
The outside unit contactor has gone bad and its contacts are sticking every so often. When this happens, the power will remain on at the outside unit causing it to continue to operate. Without airflow inside, the evaporator will then quickly ice up. Thus, it is a problem with the outside unit not shutting off as opposed to the inside unit shutting off prematurely.
The contactor is a just a relay that switched the power to the outside unit. You will have to get the correct one for your unit, but here is a popular example:
http://www.drillspot.com/products/152964/SQUARE-D_8910DP31V14_Compact-Definite-Purpose-Contactor
My advice is to get the largest one that will fit your unit. For example, if they have a 25amp model (such as the Square D 8910DP21V14) and there is a 30amp model with the same mount and connectors (e.g., 8910DP31V14) go with the latter. 40amp and above contactors will often not use screw terminals (so you can't attach loop connectors to them).
The contactor will be the thing the 220V input power cable connects to.
Do let us all know how it turns out,
Mike Shell
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wrote:

Its entirely possible that all it needs is to be cleaned/serviced, and the only reason its freezing up is because the idiot is running it with the cover off of the air handler.

http://www.drillspot.com/products/152964/SQUARE-D_8910DP31V14_Compact-Definite-Purpose-Contactor
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Thanks Mike. It has been running OK for a few days now. I am going to get a contactor and have it ready.
I haven't been there when it stopped working. The coil has been cleaned, and no, the system was not run with the air handler cover off.
Thanks to all
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Just remember, the money spent on parts (that my have not been needed) could have helped pay for a competent tech to correctly diagnose and repair the system.
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But... but.... if he paid a tech, the tech would "go away" after the repair. He wants this to be a zero-sum game, with something to fondle after it's all over.
LLoyd
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I first called a repair man, who said he has been doing AC work for 30+ years. He checked pressures, filters, duct sizes, evap coil.
He said the low side pressure was a little high? and the coil was a little dirty from what he could see thru the removable panel.
He also said the return ducting was on the small size.
He cleaned the coil in place. Had to cut into some ducting to get to it, and said it cleaned up good. He said the pressures were better after the cleaning.
The next day it had the same problem. No airflow, and compressor running. My tenant says when it happens, the insulated line at the compressor freezes up. I havent been able to be there when it happens.
The Tech said putting in another return might fix it. Because it has been working for 9 years, I'm hesitant to have a new return put in. Am I wrong here.
I ran ok for 1 1/2 days and this morning it frooze again. Of course he wasn't able to contact me, so I could check if the coil was frooze. He shut it off after he couldn't contact me, and when I got there 3 hours l;ater, it was unfrozen, and the coil had a few drops of water on it. The pan wasn't very wet, but it's Florida and hot, so maybe it dried out. We turned it back on and am waiting for it to stop cooling again.
Some call me cheap for wanting to fix it myself. I just paid the Tech. $175 for 1 1/4hrs work, which is fine if it fixed it. But it didn't. I'm retired with a low income, and have more time than money to try to get it repaired. Just hope you all understand.
Thanks
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has anybody inspected the ductwork? just because its worked for nine years does not mean there could be a duct / air flow issue thats just not being addressed. did anybody wire brush the blower wheel? maybe the blower wheel is so loaded with crud it cannot move enough air regardless of how clean the coil may be. maybe the return air duct is choked off. maybe the tenant has closed off a bunch of grills.
If you had a brain you would call up the $175 guy and tell him you have the same problem as before his repairs and does he warranty his work? If he wants to add more return air, let him, pay him, and get from him a performance warranty. no warranty, no payment. if he fails tro follow thru on any warranty work, nail his ass to the wall & contact the BBB as well as any State Licensing Boards etc.
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If you have a 9 y/o Janitrol air handler and it still has the original POS blower relay, I will give you 10 to 1 odds that is the problem. They go intermittant, and of course never act up while you are watching them. I usually just replace it with a regular spdt relay and never havve any more problems. Larry
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