Bubbs your like that piece of toilet paper that won't fall off...HAHAHA you
are obssesed with me :)
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HOW MANY TIMES YOU NEED TO BE TOLD
THAT I AM NOT IN YOU TRADE DUMB ASS
BUT THEN AGAIN WHAT ONE CAN EXPECT
IDIOT WHO CAN'T EVEN HOLD SCREW DRIVER
IN HIS HAND WITH OUT READING MANUAL
OR BEEN SHOWN HOW
Happy days or here DIDO
So if you're not in our trade, why do you continually try to answer HVAC
Questions that only someone in the trade could answer?
Also.....how DUMB do you think YOU look to the rest of us every time you do
So like I said, brainiac, what is it that someone
alledgedly pays you $100 an hour to do?
Answer questions that your not qualified to answer???
Why don't you go to alt.airline_pilots and tell them how to fly their
Lastly, what country are you from, so I can be sure I never go there.....
DIDO is in Refrigeration. He actually is pretty good at it. He does all
that cascade and weird refrigerant shit. I have spoken to him a couple of
times about what he does and it's out of my league (spare the attacks on
that one). So when he talks about Resi HVAC he is applying it from a
refrigerant standpoint and a language barrier.
The furnace has a hot element ignitor.
The static reaches a blazingly fast crescendo which I'm fairly sure is
not part of a cyclical control feedback loop. BUT, I will replace the
battery in the thermostat, just in case. Wouldn't that be a kick in
Knowing that the capacitor is used all the time is helpful. If no one
has a better idea, I will be changing the capacitor soon. Do you think
I could use the capacitor from an old microwave I have, as a temporary
replacement to see if the capacitor is the problem? It is a lot
bigger so I would imagine that its capacity will be greater. I would
guess that that wouldn't hurt. I can provide you with the exact
specifications, if necessary. I for sure don't want to burn out the
I will be sure to ground the capacitor before I work on it, if you
tell me that I don't have to worry about damaging the motor or other
electronics by doing that. I could, of course, CAREFULLY disconnect
the leads to the capacitor before I grounded the capacitor terminals.
Thanks for the advice, DIDO.
I have another furnace which is a year younger, with a different
control board. If the capacitor on that unit is identical, I will use
it for the test.
You should always start with radio interference problems establishing
that the unit is grounded. It could well be a component, but many
circuits count on the ground to shield other circuits from RFI.
Also, don't count on the installer as having grounded the unit. I had
to tell mine to do so even though the installation instructions clearly
specified they should do so.
I took off the cover of the connection box and observed that the
ground wire was wire-nutted to the green pigtale which was firmly
attached under the grounding screw, which was tight. It doesn't make
sense to me that this is a grounding problem due to the nature of the
problem. Why would the static intensity be in the form of a
bell-shaped curve if grounding were the problem?
A wire-nut connection is NOT a solid ground. Secondly... I don't really
understand here... Are you saying there is a ground wire coming from
your electrical panel that is then wire-nutted to a pigtail on your
unit? Proper grounding means a Green ID'd wire coming from your primary
panel and FIRMLY attached to the unit by approved methods. A lug is
usually provided for this in commercial stuff (I don't know about resi
so much). Then, every raceway and metal contacting the unit is 'bonded'
to the unit itself by approved methods. It is important for your safety
that this is all done correctly.
It's a bell-shape because the motor is running variable-speed. It's
using a cheap 'frequency chopper' to do this, most likely. Maybe the
HVAC guys will chime in here, but I doubt this is a DC motor.
A 'chopper' generates one hell of a lot of electrical 'noise' that needs
dumped off. Usually, that's done through the ground... which is why it's
critically important here.
I had a neighbor with a similar problem last year, as I recall. As it
turned out, HIS unit was fed from a sub-panel where the grounds and
neutrals were improperly bonded... another dangerous but common practice.
I must be misunderstanding you here. Are you saying that wire nuts are
NOT an acceptable method of connecting conductors?! They are in my
Secondly... I don't really
Sort of. It's actually a #14 bare wire in 14-2 metal cable feed from
the furnace switch that is connected to the green stranded pigtale in
the connection box on the furnace.
Proper grounding means a Green ID'd wire coming from your primary
Around here, residential grounding is always done using a bare ground
wire in the cable. The only place I've ever seen a green ground wire
is in a fixture or an appliance. Never seen green in solid wire
cables, only in extensiion cords. Stranded green ground wire fished
through conduit might be used in unusual cases.
Then, every raceway and metal contacting the unit is 'bonded'
To settle the grounding issue once and for all, I ran a grounded
extension cord from the panel outlet to the furnace burner fan ground
lug. This made absolutely no difference in the static.
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