Radio interference from Bryant hi-ef furnace.

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Bubbs your like that piece of toilet paper that won't fall off...HAHAHA you are obssesed with me :)
-Canadian Heat
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And you claim to be in the trade?

And you claim to be in the trade?

And you claim to be in the trade?

And you claim to be in the trade?

And you claim to be in the trade? Seriously Dido, what exactly do you do for a living?
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Respectfully, Bob

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HOW MANY TIMES YOU NEED TO BE TOLD THAT I AM NOT IN YOU TRADE DUMB ASS BUT THEN AGAIN WHAT ONE CAN EXPECT IDIOT WHO CAN'T EVEN HOLD SCREW DRIVER IN HIS HAND WITH OUT READING MANUAL OR BEEN SHOWN HOW Happy days or here DIDO
wrote

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So if you're not in our trade, why do you continually try to answer HVAC questions? Questions that only someone in the trade could answer? Also.....how DUMB do you think YOU look to the rest of us every time you do this? So like I said, brainiac, what is it that someone alledgedly pays you $100 an hour to do? Answer questions that your not qualified to answer??? Why don't you go to alt.airline_pilots and tell them how to fly their planes? ROTFLMAO!!! Lastly, what country are you from, so I can be sure I never go there.....     
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Respectfully, Bob

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Dido is in the accelerated life test business. He does have a web site too.
wrote

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wrote

DIDO is in Refrigeration. He actually is pretty good at it. He does all that cascade and weird refrigerant shit. I have spoken to him a couple of times about what he does and it's out of my league (spare the attacks on that one). So when he talks about Resi HVAC he is applying it from a refrigerant standpoint and a language barrier.
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That's fine. So he should stick to answering questions about that. That's what we've said all along to him, but he's as thick as a brick.
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Respectfully, Bob

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The furnace has a hot element ignitor.
The static reaches a blazingly fast crescendo which I'm fairly sure is not part of a cyclical control feedback loop. BUT, I will replace the battery in the thermostat, just in case. Wouldn't that be a kick in the ass!
Knowing that the capacitor is used all the time is helpful. If no one has a better idea, I will be changing the capacitor soon. Do you think I could use the capacitor from an old microwave I have, as a temporary replacement to see if the capacitor is the problem? It is a lot bigger so I would imagine that its capacity will be greater. I would guess that that wouldn't hurt. I can provide you with the exact specifications, if necessary. I for sure don't want to burn out the motor.
I will be sure to ground the capacitor before I work on it, if you tell me that I don't have to worry about damaging the motor or other electronics by doing that. I could, of course, CAREFULLY disconnect the leads to the capacitor before I grounded the capacitor terminals.
Sincerely, BlackHawk
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wrote:

Deffinatly not! capacitor must match value of one that is on the unit presently
I have, as a temporary

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SNIP

Thanks for the advice, DIDO.
I have another furnace which is a year younger, with a different control board. If the capacitor on that unit is identical, I will use it for the test.
Sincerely, BlackHawk

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wrote:

Why don't you quit fucking with stuff you don't understand and get it fixed by a pro?
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I recall this discussed before, don't remember the final answer.
http://groups.google.com/groups/search?lr=lang_en&safe=off&numP&q=radio+interferance+carrier+group%3Aalt.hvac&safe=off
-zero
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BlackHawk96 wrote:

    You should always start with radio interference problems establishing that the unit is grounded. It could well be a component, but many circuits count on the ground to shield other circuits from RFI.
    Also, don't count on the installer as having grounded the unit. I had to tell mine to do so even though the installation instructions clearly specified they should do so.
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Thanks for the advice Ken.
I checked the wiring and the furnace is properly grounded, at least by visual inspection. Do you have any other ideas?
Sincerely, BlackHawk
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'Visual Inspection' is NOT a good way to check for proper grounding.
What... exactly... did you do during your 'visual inspection'?
Jake
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I took off the cover of the connection box and observed that the ground wire was wire-nutted to the green pigtale which was firmly attached under the grounding screw, which was tight. It doesn't make sense to me that this is a grounding problem due to the nature of the problem. Why would the static intensity be in the form of a bell-shaped curve if grounding were the problem?
Sincerely, BlackHawk
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BlackHawk96 wrote:

A wire-nut connection is NOT a solid ground. Secondly... I don't really understand here... Are you saying there is a ground wire coming from your electrical panel that is then wire-nutted to a pigtail on your unit? Proper grounding means a Green ID'd wire coming from your primary panel and FIRMLY attached to the unit by approved methods. A lug is usually provided for this in commercial stuff (I don't know about resi so much). Then, every raceway and metal contacting the unit is 'bonded' to the unit itself by approved methods. It is important for your safety that this is all done correctly.
It's a bell-shape because the motor is running variable-speed. It's using a cheap 'frequency chopper' to do this, most likely. Maybe the HVAC guys will chime in here, but I doubt this is a DC motor.
A 'chopper' generates one hell of a lot of electrical 'noise' that needs dumped off. Usually, that's done through the ground... which is why it's critically important here.
I had a neighbor with a similar problem last year, as I recall. As it turned out, HIS unit was fed from a sub-panel where the grounds and neutrals were improperly bonded... another dangerous but common practice.
Jake
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Thanks for your input, Jake.

I must be misunderstanding you here. Are you saying that wire nuts are NOT an acceptable method of connecting conductors?! They are in my electrical code.
Secondly... I don't really

Sort of. It's actually a #14 bare wire in 14-2 metal cable feed from the furnace switch that is connected to the green stranded pigtale in the connection box on the furnace.
Proper grounding means a Green ID'd wire coming from your primary

Around here, residential grounding is always done using a bare ground wire in the cable. The only place I've ever seen a green ground wire is in a fixture or an appliance. Never seen green in solid wire cables, only in extensiion cords. Stranded green ground wire fished through conduit might be used in unusual cases.
Then, every raceway and metal contacting the unit is 'bonded'

To settle the grounding issue once and for all, I ran a grounded extension cord from the panel outlet to the furnace burner fan ground lug. This made absolutely no difference in the static.

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wrote:

Try an audio inspection.
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Oscar_Lives wrote:

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