And one more time, WHAT DID HE SAY WHEN YOU ASKED HIM WHY HE THINKS THAT STUFF NEEDS TO BE REPLACED.
That's why it should be used to find out.
Or you can systematically approach the issue, collect data and form hypotheses, which you would then test.
Quite likely, yes, it is very difficult for honest people to stay competitive in such businesses.
I think that the above is worth responding to.
i
He already did, dumbfuck. PJM is extremely knowlegible about the proper use of newsgroups, and specifically alt.hvac. You got good advice, now heed it and take your hacking whining freakshow out of here.
Thought I answered that...really the only other stuff he said was that the compressor was pulling 90A and did not kick on so he thought it was seized.....but then right before he left he was able to get it to kick on. Can a compressor be shot even though it occationally runs okay? I thought it would be a go or no go sort of thing.
I wouldn't know what to put where or what it would be telling me....All I know is the AC will run through about 4 or 5 cycle of on and off and then it will throw a breaker...Really that is all the HVAC prof. said...Then he checked to see if my comp was under warranty and said it would be a couple days before it came in....I since had a thrid party (prof) order the comp and have them holding off on installing it until I at least try a new cap.
As far as additional diagnosis and forming hypothesis..well I just don't know enough about it to do more than I have already done..based on what the profs have said they were going to replace.
I also think so as far as being "seized" is concerned.
Then, perhaps, some effort needs to be invested in finding a good professional.
I mean, yeah, go ahead and replace the caps and see if it helps, if you insist. But if it does not help, perhaps hiring someone would make sense if you find someone somewhat honest.
does it seize at particular time of day? (like midday) and restart in the evening?
Maybe one of your caps is bad and if th pressure in the system exceeds something, the compressor cannot start. And then in the evening, when the refrigerant cools and pressure drops, that one cap can get the compressor going?
I mean, there has to be something to explain this intermittency.
i
Actually yes you are. In a previous post you said that the tech measured 90 amps on the compressor, and you have a 30 amp breaker.... Whats wrong with this picture??? throwing parts at it because they are cheap is bullshit... thats what your accusing the folks in the trade of doing, and then when somebody comes along and says you need an expensive repair, then you blow them off and continue to screw around with paper clips and bubble gum. FWIW, $900 for a compressor change is damn cheap..... in fact half the price of what it is in the real world. A resi compressor that is drawing 90 AMPS is probably toast.... if not, it will be very shortly unless the problem is corrected.
Maybe you will figure that out once you get over your capacitor fetish..... and is doesn't matter if you put one in today, and the compressor gets replace tomorrow... it *STILL* gets a new capacitor and a filter drier so it hasn't saved you a dime....it actually cost you more money for the capacitor that you put in. Heres a news flash for you sport.... the new compressor may or may not even use the same value of capacitor as the old one.
The main problem is that alt.hvac is just a social club for pathetic, paranoid union types to get their jollies attacking anyone who asks a question. The fact that their "profession" is heavily infested with the incompetent, barely competent and outright crooks should be what they're attacking if they were truly the competent ones, but they're too stupid to realize that they are their own worst enemy.
Pete C.
There is nothing wrong with a motor to draw 3x its rated amperate at startup. That should not last very long and the breaker should not trip if such startup current is brief. Most breakers are designed to handle motor loads.
As motors go, 3x running current at startup is relatively mild.
My homemade phase converter's first idler motor draws 120 amps at startup, it is rated at 10 HP.
i
All true.... but thats not what he said. I'm still waiting on the make/model/serial number of the unit.
Hey wyredog,
Just so you know, this shitbag PJ only crawled in here a week or so ago, this was / is a very useful group of NICE helpful folks.
Ignore fuckface and soon enough he will slink back to the h*mo room.....
Jeff
( ready for your weak ass insults, little man.....PJ ?? )
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