Payne Furnace won't stay on

Hello,

It is a Payne (and a pain.) We think it was manufactured & installed in

1990. The model # is hard to read but we believe it says 397GAW036125. Last month we had a HVAC guy look at it. He said everything was working ok but it needed a new filter & he didn't have any. He vaccumed the old one & showed me where to put the new one. So I bought one this week and after I placed it in, I couldn't get the furnace to come back on. I tinkered with the panel covers and hit the reset button. The furnace came on for a few hours then went out. I redid the reset button again and again it came on for a little while. The panels are so damn difficult to get on and off. I believe I am getting them back on right. I wonder if the problem is with the reset button? I noticed that the HVAC guy had put electrical tape holding it in. What is up with our furnace?
Reply to
Smokey Eyes
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Call a tech that knows what he is doing

Reply to
Noon-Air

Yeah but see that is part of the problem--finding someone who knows what they are doing. I feel that I have already been burned by hiring the company that I did last month. Can anyone recommend a good repair company in the Seattle area?

messagenews: snipped-for-privacy@j27g2000cwj.googlegroups.com...

Reply to
Smokey Eyes

by pass the door switch and see if that works

Reply to
daytona°

It sounds to me like the furnace was working fine until the tech opened the blower access door to change the filter. Since you say he taped the safety switch closed, its a good probability he too was clueless on how the door was properly installed. The switch is a safety item and under no circumstances should it be taped or bypassed.

If the door is not securely installed, the door switch is doing the job it was designed to do. I recommend you learn how to properly install the door, so that you can change your filter on a regular basis. Now, there may be a problem with the door switch. If so, it must be replaced, not bypassed.

Reply to
gofish

Ask your friends, family, in-laws, outlaws, the folks you go to church with, etc.

Reply to
Noon-Air

Reply to
Steve Scott

I think what you mean by "reset button" is the button that the door pushes in. It's a door switch. Maybe the doors are just loose, or clips are broken. Put the bottom door on first then the top door and tape them if you have too. It's possible the vibration from the fan is causing the door to move off the switch.

There is no problem bypassing a door switch, it won't be unsafe. Just use your wall switch or breaker to turn the furnace off before you open the doors.

-Canadian Heat

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Reply to
Anonymous

Well, Danger is your middle name. Tape the doors on? WTF! Bypassing a door switch is not unsafe?? Okayyyyyyyy. Whatever you say. I wonder what happens when the tape falls off, the door switch is tapped and the blower stars pulling in flames, fumes and sewer gasses? You really are scary Danger. Like I said, all you gotta do is type and your true colors come flying through. I wouldnt let you work on a light bulb in a dog house. Bubba

Reply to
Bubba

The door switch isn't a safety. And if you can't figure out how to put the doors on a furnace you shouldn't be touching it.

The door switch is redundant like bubba. HAHA

-Canadian Heat

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Reply to
Anonymous

The interlock door safety switch is indeed a safety and should not be bypassed!!! You are aware of the safety issues involved here aren't you??? This is something Stormy might do...

Joseph

Reply to
Joseph

All I can say is "wrong", it is a safety!

Reply to
Joseph

what a complete f****ng moron.

please do, bypass the blower door interlock safety on your furnace then have your long haired wife, or better yet your small child change the filter. oh, be sure not to tell them you've bypassed a manufacturers safety item.

you bring nothing to the table other than your gross incompetency

Reply to
gofish

what does redundant mean?

what does redundant mean?

DIMwit

Reply to
DIMwit

Why not just fix the little fucker? It won't take much effort, time, or expense.

Bypassing safeties is not real smart. I hope your professional liability insurance is paid-up--but then again it won't cover you for willfully doing something stupid and or criminal.

Reply to
Oscar_Lives

FWIW, every upflow furnace we install gets a filter base, so there is absolutely no reason for the owner to touch the furnace panels. AFAIK they started using them as soon as they hit the market-- somewhere in the early 90's. I started here in 96 and they had been in use for several years then. Besides preventing problems as described in this thread, it insures the filter is properly held in place, and is so much easier to change. I have had customers say that alone is worth the price of the new equipment. Actually we use them on air handlers too, for that reason. Larry

Reply to
lp13-30

Danger Heat: the door switch is not installed to be a disconnect means, to protect the HO from getting shocked, or sticking their hands in the blower while it is running. If that were the case, why are they only on furnaces and not on air handlers? They are there to prevent the blower from sucking in fumes and possibly flames if the blower door is not put on properly. The switch also acting as a disconnect is definitely a plus, but it is only a fringe benefit. Larry

Reply to
lp13-30

........and thus ends the story of the Canadian Hack. Bubba

Reply to
Bubba

replying to Smokey Eyes, Ken wrote: I'm about 11 years late, but... I've lived in my house since 1998. Had a guy come out two months ago and do one of those deals where they power vacuum all the dust and crap out of the ductwork, via the furnace. That part went well, but he must have bent the door or something, because once a week or so the furnace (or air conditioner) will just suddenly quit. After some troubleshooting, I found that the door no longer completely closes the switch. Pushing the door back into its proper place was just a temporary fix because it would eventually shut off again in a few more days. Wasn't exactly sure how to bend the door back to its proper shape, so I super glued two nickels together and then glued the stack to the inside of the door opposite the safety switch. For a 10 cent fix, the safety switch now works as intended once again.

Reply to
Ken

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