I have a central heating system in a 3000 sq ft house that works by taking hot water from the main water heater (a high efficiency 48- gallon unit) and sending it to the air handlers. (When cooling, the same air handlers take cold water from water chillers outside.)
What is the range of temperature I should expect to see between the air intake and the registers when the system is operating normally?
The house is under a purchase contract, but the buyer's home inspector failed the heating system because he could not get hot air from the registers. That was because the water pumps were not plugged in (it was still in "summer" mode). I now have the system configured to work correctly, and I'm getting 15 degrees difference between intake and registers. I'd like to know what I *should* be getting, so I can confirm for the buyers that it's working properly.
Then you better call someone that *IS* familiar with a system like this
Gee, why didn't I think of that?!?!
Let's see. I called the company that installed the system. They are out of business and gone. Next I called the company that manufactured the cooling side of the system (Robur) and asked for qualified service techs in Arizona. They gave me the name of the number of the company no longer in business and the names of two other outfits that never heard of Robur. Next I called the company that serviced the cooling side last fall (Parker and Sons). They're familiar with the cooling side, obviously, and a little with the heating side, and they're the ones who looked at it this morning. Next I looked for but could not find a web page for the company that made the air handler. Meanwhile, my realtor has been on the phone looking for HVAC techs with experience with hybrid systems like this, to no avail.
So if there's anyone on this newsgroup who KNOWS this kind of equipment and can offer assistance that goes beyond "call a professional" (gee, why *didn't* I think of that?!), it would be greatly appreciated.
Some of the old Arkla-Servel's (now owned by Robur) had a boiler alonside the chiller portion. Those old dogs were called chiller heaters. Typically they produced 45 degree chilled water for cooling and 155 degree hot water for heating. Two seperate pumps were involved.
Your situation sounds somewhat different, in that the hot water you say is being supplied by the domestic hot water heater, with a temp of
120 degrees.
To realistically arrive at a correct answer for you, we need to know cfm in airflow, & gpm in hot water flow.
Ideally when the t-stat calls for heat, the circulation pump is interlocked thru the controls so the pump runs as long as the t-stat is calling for heat.
On the chiller side of the coin, usually there is 7-10 degrees drop across the indoor coil. 45 degree water in and 52-55 degree water out.
With your supply water temp of 120 degrees, I think you will be very lucky to get 15 degrees across the coil in heat mode.
At one time SoCalGas Co listed all of the Robur certified installing contractors, I dont know if they still do. There are damn few of us left in the state of Ca. There's a pretty good outfit in Palm Springs who do Robur work, their name escapes me at the moment.
120F where? Are you testing tap water? That's no good. There's probably a mixing valve or anti scald valve installed for domestic hot water, that's why you only get
120f at a tap. The air handler bi-passes the ASV or mixing valve. It should be fed
140f at least. Look for a thermostat control on the tank itself. See what the setpoint is. Go to the air handler walk 6 feet away and measure your supply temp in the duct. Then measure the temp in the return air duct. There's no way your getting 120f out of a register....that's crazy. The poor dog would burn his nutz.
Your shooting for a 30-60f difference with something like your system. So if you had 68f coming into the air handler, you want at least 98-128f in the supply duct leaving the handler.
Also check for dirty filter, faulty pump-melted impellar, or air in the system. Attach a hose to the drain valve in the air handler and let it rip.
-Canadian Heat
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DANgER (dangerThere's no way your getting 120f out of a register....that's crazy. The poor dog would
so first you tell us 120f at the register would burn the dogs nutz, then you tell us he should have 98-128f in the supply duct leaving the air handler.
LOL you idiots think a 130f supply temp at the air handler, 6 feet away, will result in a 130f at a register?
You clowns make me laugh...
bobby have you figured out how a G26 works yet? Your a waste of time bob...you have no skill or understanding...still posting questions asking how a fan belt works...LOL
Isn't it clear you guys are just wasting your time around here....noone has ever found either of you helpful...and quite frankly you give the trade a bad name. Maybe gofish can explain what temps he would expect to have at a register? Or would he measure tap water too? BAHAHAHA
Waiting for your technical response fishy....
-Canadian Heat
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DANgER (danger LOL you idiots think a 130f supply temp at the air handler, 6 feet
Oh, gosh, golly gee, no!! It would be around minus 7, right Dangerous?? HAHA. If you want it hotter, you'll have to jumper the gas valve , right dangerous?? HAHA
On 09 Mar 2007 21:05:03 GMT, DANgER (dangerLOL you idiots think a 130f supply temp at the air handler, 6 feet away, will result in
ever found
In case you havent figured it out yet DANgER, nobody has to respond to you. You are the clueless idiot and EVERYONE knows it, INCLUDING the homeowners. All we have to do is watch your responses and guesses and switch jumping. You ARE DANgEROUS. That is a given. Here's hoping you bash you own head in with a rock someday soon. Bubba
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