Hi everyone, I got my central ac installed recently. i have nearly 2K sqf 2 story house and contractor said that trane 2 1/2 ton should be enough to cool it at summer time. They also said that they guarantee 20F difference after ac is on. Well, i run it now and can't get even 5F difference in the house.. i'm just wondering what is the normal expectation from 2.5 ton unit should be? can it perform to cool down temperature till 70F when outside temperature is 80-85F? there is no icing on the pipes coming out from compressor i don't know there should be any ice at all... i'm kinda disappointed with it especially remembering that i paid $4k to install it.... Thanks D
"the contractor SAID that trane 2 1/2 ton should be enough to cool it at summer time" Lemme see. Manual J comes to mind.
"they also SAID they guarantee 20F difference after ac is on" I do hope you understand that "SAID" and "guarantee in writing" are two COMPLETLY different things.
Start with calling them back and having them see if they can get you satisfied. If that doesnt seem to work, call another independent contractor and have an analysis done (yes, you'll have to pay for that). Now you have your info on what can be expected. Bubba
Well, you really haven't given enough information.... Like: Is there any insulation in your house? Are you having an issue with the temp. upstairs or downstairs?
Given that you have a guarantee to it will provide a 20 degree F differential, and it appears that the system isn't able to achieve that, you really just need to call the contractor back and say it's not working like it says it will in your contract. If recent means this past spring, they should be happy to sent someone over to fix whatever has failed. That's assuming there's language like "this brand spankin' new AC system will cool the entire interior of your home to achieve at least a 20 degree F differential below the local outdoor ambient temperature" You probably have nothing in writing that says that. You wouldn't be asking here if you did. If you push hard enough for the 20 degree F differential, they can perform a simple modification where they can guarantee the 20 degrees. Unfortunately, your house will be 20 degrees warmer inside than it is outdoors.
The other questions you ask.... "....what is the normal.... ....can it perform to cool...." are completely irrelevant. The only issue is what you contracted for. For the price you paid, the only conceivable work done was dropping a condenser outside, running a lineset, and modifying your existing air handler to accept an evaporator. What kind of thermostat did you get? They may need to replace it with a better one.
Oh.... And how is that foundation doing? Did you ever figure out how there was a 16 year difference between the age of the house and foundation? Maybe I was on to something about not having insulation.
First the heat d> Hi all,
And of course, you don't like the prices that you pay for anything.
Sort by relevance Sorted by date Is $500 too much to replace EVAP canister and vent control ... Group: alt.autos.nissan.maxima Hi I had to replace valvle and canister. Dealer wanted $600 for it, i figured that's too much and did it myself. It took me almost weekend but knowing what to do can take no more than 2 hours. valve cost $120 and canister $180 in my area. ... May 2 2006 by Djavdet - 3 messages - 3 authors
Thanks for the advice, i guess i coud figure out "calling back" part myself. I do have in contract : desing temperature 70 on a 90 day for cooling.. is that what you're talking about or it's not enough? D
There is an insulation but i am not sure what kind.. did not build the house... i started looking at downstairs first and haven't come upstairs yet since have a problem here...
i have a contract saying designed 70 on a day 90 for cooling , is that good enough? and i guess it covers your joke about house being warmer 20 degees than outside huh? :-)
what else could they do? the guy came over i let him walking all over the house, he looked up the heating system sized the house and said it's all cool , we can do it! what else should i be asking him? the contractor assured me that they performed all needed sizing and calculations. in fact i had 2 different ones coming and magically their numbers matched... that's why i kinda trusted the last one and let them do the job.
no, they replaced old one with new wireless one, with all cool led display and nice buttons..
What are you talking about?
what's it have to do with my question? i even never had a truck, what are you talking about?
sure i don't who does? are you running some sort of background check on me? i thought i could get some real advice on the freaking cenral ac! D
So, being the temperature where you live was 94 degrees at 5:00 PM Friday, you are trying to say that the house was 89 degrees with your "only 5 degree difference" and you didn't open the windows until Mr. contractor could get there ?
LED's? Bet that eats batteries. You probably mean LCD.
Uhh... You bought the house in early 2004. It was supposedly built in '85.... That ring a few balls?
My bad. It's a Maxima. I guess that's not a truck. You had heat problems with it none the less.
But of course! That's the first thing that is done.
Nope. That's what AHR is for. Oh, but wait ..... you already posted there. BTW: "How fast can you get 10F drop in your house?" isn't what you are after. Fast is bad, as usual. Also, think about the fact that the heating system is 12 years old. That means the original was replaced 10 years after the house was built. That should have told you something about what should have been done when you went to ADD AC to it.
Whoever did the design is an idiot. Assuming that your design temp is 90 degrees, and not knowing what you design RH is, a correctly sized system should be able to *MAINTAIN* 75F at 50% RH. Its not designed to bring the house down to that at the design temp, but to maintain that temp at the design temp. That means turn the system on at the thermostat, set it for
75F, and leave it to do its job. Do not turn it off when you leave the house, do not jack the controls around, do not expect the house to go from
90F down to 75F in 20 minutes...thats just not gonna happen, turning the thermostat down further is not going to make the system work any harder, just set the thermostat and let it be.
FWIW, $4,000 had to be the lowest bidder and they put in the cheapest equipment the installer could find. Care to post make/model/serial numbers to prove me wrong??
If you have everything on paper as to guarantee, record few days temperatures in side the house and outside and call your contractor back and if he does not make good on it, take him/her to court. Other guys that reply to you have better idea what you will need for that split of temperature and size of you house since I am not AC person. However I would say that you will need more like 4 ton or more. Good luck Tony
I did run it for the day. did not turn it off and did not play with the control. as i said almost no effect. i mean i f i stay on outlet yeah it blows cold air but knowing how ac works in the office i'd say either air pressure isn't enough or it's not cold enough. i put termometer on outlet it showed 71F with 85F outside.. is that good?
hey i am not trying to prove anyone wrong.. people in this group understand my posts wrong. all i'm trying to do is to gather some info since i'm not very experienced in this house stuff...
on the contract it says Trane XB 2.5 are you saying that some of the trane models are so much better than others so makes sence discuss it with contractor? i think they would be happy to sell me more expensive unit but all i heard from them is that it's more expensive because of seer number. D
Yes that's what i say about temperature in the house. contractor hasn't been back yet since i didn't call them trying to get more educated about central ac and what to expect and apply on the real situation in the house. no i did not open windows why? to make situation even worse?
yeah, sure it's my bad it's lcd.. interesting, you did not comment my story above? can you say anythig? is that how all contractors work or it's just my "cheapest" one? and there is alot more they usually do?
hmm it's about right, where is 16 year number's coming out from?
well at least you could get correct info first before start joking around... i don't care though.. as long as you provide any good info i'm interested in...
what for? are you doing it on everyone who posts in this group? why?
jeez, why are trying to guess what i'm doing instead of just ask me? if you think it's wrong group to post my question why didn't you simply say so? normally it's much better to ask in several different groups in related areas to get faster and broader information.
Not exactly. i asked about how fast the guy can cool the house down to compare what he has. so i could have at least some numbers.... yes i thought about 12 years old blower, so? according the contractor they did not do anything to it and i assumed that pressure the blower produces does not change after ac is installed or changes insignificantly, am i wrong? your guessed 10 years don't tell me anything, can you clarify what you mean by those "calculations"? designed lifespan for the heater 20 year. it says on the manuall.. are you suggesting that it is too old?
*> well at least you could get correct info first before start joking
*> around... i don't care though.. as long as you provide any good info
*> i'm interested in...
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You'll need to learn what components are generally involved, only then will any discussion about them amount to anything useful to you.
After you've read and digested the above link, go here and explore:
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(this really should just be the alt.hvac standard signature line )
i'm curious what are you trying to make out of it? what would the numbers tell you? anyway make is TRANE model is XB 2.5 as it says on the contract. coil thing model is: 2txcb036bc3hcaa condenser is 2ttb-svn01a-en and there is another number below it 18- ac56d1-1 is this what you're looking for?
well, if it does i can tell that it's not what i'm trying to do, besides i already paid the bill. i want to understand if that stuff i bought is capable to do what i want. the contractor said that it is and i'm not seeing it. originally i thought that home central air should be something similar to what i see in the office where it's bigger and more expensive and at home it should be less expensive not that big but doing something the same or very close. the reason i started asking around to prove if it is what people get or not...yeah instead i'm getting fingerpointed and laughed out.. heh, whatever.. D
If the thermostat is set for 75, and you have 71 degree air coming out of the vents, what is the temperature inside of the house?? IF you have 75 degrees inside, the air coming out of the vents should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 55 degrees. If you *DON"T* have this, then call the installer back and tell him/her you don't think its running correctly. Have them explain all this stuff you want to know, because we can't *SEE* if through the computer screen. Have them explain what you got and how its supposed to work and what to look for if its not running correctly. If the guy they sent out can't do this, then tell them you want the owner to come out and explain it. BTW... just because you got a Trane, doesn't mean anything.... it all has to do with the installation.
oh ok, here are some numbers, thanks. so the temperature should be somewhat around 55? did you just subtract 20 from 75? just corious, or there is some sort of table of temperatures?
i guess i understand that part. i looked up what they did, it looks ok to me. everything is sealed and coil is on top of the furnace. there are no holes or some suspecious noise or sticking out stuff.. air is stilling going through old duct system.. the only thing i can think of is that condenser is not working properly..ie does not cool enough coolant. is that possible?
I am not here to teach air conditioning 101. Do some homework, then get back to us. Start with basic electricity, then physics, thermodynamics, pneumatics, mechanical engineering, and a little metalurgy.
Looks don't mean anything... I have a customer that thought this was OK....
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This is what it is supposed to look like
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As far as the amount of refrigerant in the system, there is no way to tell without taking the appropriate measurements to check superheat and subcooling. Yes you can have too much refrigerant just as easy as not enough.
oh you people are so hard ... that was simple question, can you tell me how you came up with that number? don't tell me you were doing complex math with several long equations to calculate that 55f... i'm not asking you teach me all that... i appreciate your input anyway. thanks
and in both cases it would not cool enough to maintain desired temperature? D
thanks for the link, 99% i already knew, did not help ... however the information about relation between pressure humidity and temperature is insteresting but still don't give much help... D
yup. Now let your fingers do the walking, call the installer, get his happy ass back to your house and have him to fix it. If *YOU* were the installer and you have just been feeding us a line of crap as so many have before you, then you are on your own. Either way, your not gonna get it fixed over the internet. Call somebody local that knows WTF their doing.
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