New Trane system rumbles on startup/shutdown, and other issues

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DO NOT MESS WITH ANYTHING ELSE!! Get somebody out there that actually knows what they are doing.
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Noon-Air wrote:

Calm down, I'm not messing with anything. Do you have anything constructive to add to the conversation?
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...

Heh...he's perfectly calm--if I have any clue.
You, ( OTOH ) seem to have but very few clues....suggest first make sure your heat pump isnt cooling when it should in fact be heating.....
After that, suggest re-read all posts ( hint--most of them are spot-on ) then go figure a while before doing anything.
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Jeffrey Lebowski wrote:

Right, which is why I'm here trying to learn more about it. There has been some good information posted and I appreciate that. Not sure why folks feel the need to bash me though. Oh well.
So it looks like this Add-on heat pump kit (TAYPLUS103A) is a fossil-fuel kit, correct? My thermostat has an option to choose the backup heat source as electric or fossil-fuel. Currently it is set to electric. There is also an option, if fossil-fuel is selected, to use an external fossil-fuel kit to control backup heat, or use the thermostat. This is not enabled because electric backup is specified. Seems to me that fossil-fuel should be selected as backup and the External fossil fuel kit should be enabled.
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Sorry, not familiar with all of the various taystat part ##.....suggest maybe you should try contacting the Thermostat Kings :.
www.the_thermostat_kings.com

Bye bye...
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What a wanna-be know-it-all dumbshit...
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Quit fucking around with it and call a qualified technician to set it up properly.
What a pissy little homoaner! Stop being so fucking stubborn and cheap and get that thing fixed.
Do you want to burn your house down or kill your family?
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With the typical setup, the heat pump will run continuous until it can no longer keep up with heating demand, at which point aux heat ( second, third stages ) will also kick in....typically the heat pump is kept active even while the aux is running.

Do your own homework, electric and fossil fuel prices actually do vary considerably depending upon physical location....an important constant for comparison being the value "BTUH"

You should fucking quit complaining and pay the man--then, also pay him to install new ductwork at some point after the holidays if the noise still bothers you.

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You're kidding right? I paid 12K for this install. I got top of the line components. I was told "you won't even hear the furnace it's so quiet." They damn well better make sure I don't hear it. Would you settle, or pay even more to get the problem fixed?
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Heat pumps typically need higher airflow capacity ductwork as compared to what is usually provided with a previously installed all-fossil fueled system.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joseph_Bessimer
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One of the problems with these high end systems is finding decent technicians to install them. I mean these guys told you they turn off one of the features on every install. That should have been your first clue. Does it sound like they know how to install and set up the system to work properly? They're messing around with fan speeds to solve noise problems. Does that sound right to you?
A $2k system installed properly is better than a $12k system installed improperly.
Jason wrote:

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Sounds like you got what you paid for. What other corners did they cut for such a cheap price?
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Jason wrote:

electricity compared to gas prices. The above also depends on how efficient the system is operating "in each mode."

the heating modes. The listed blower motor speeds, to be used, may NOT even be delivering the required airflow! Read all the links below & have the actual airflow CFM checked along with the ductwork! Bring everything up to the required specs, "& then do the proper tests to verify the results." I would guess that the heat pump might be operating at a lower percent of its rated efficiency - than the gas mode!

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PROPER A/C UNIT & DUCTWORK Sizing is over 70% of Operating Efficiency
http://www.udarrell.com/proper_cfm_btuh_duct_sizing_air_conditioning_systems.html
  Click to see the full signature.
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You can't control both stages of the gas furnace with that stat with a heat pump as primary and furnace as auxillary heat. X2 is the only source from the stat for aux heat, therefore, W1 and W2 must be jumpered together at the furnace.
Ed
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Did anyone check to make sure the ductwork was adequately sized for the new unit's blower cfm ?
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Jeffrey Lebowski wrote:

They said they did.
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Jason wrote:

results of the tests. You have to verify everything they did during the entire installation.
However, first you have to know how the installation & its sequence procedures should have been properly done! Follow the links on my Website, print & read the pages & then ask them to list there installation procedures in writing.
You paid $10K, - they can afford to do that for you! You deserve to get the operating efficiencies & the quality installation that they represented to you. - udarrell
--
PROPER A/C UNIT & DUCTWORK Sizing is over 70% of Operating Efficiency
http://www.udarrell.com/proper_cfm_btuh_duct_sizing_air_conditioning_systems.html
  Click to see the full signature.
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Jason, You can re-enable the Adaptive Intelligent recovery on the stat but it sounds like your system has more problems. Changing blower speeds because of noise is a sign of an improperly sized system or duct work or both. Each time the blower speed is changed the refrigerant charge needs to be re-checked along with all the performance data. Yes! It makes a difference. It will affect the performance. There is no "rule of thumb" on when to operate a heat pump or gas furnace. It depends on the price of the gas and electric in your area and the balance point of your home.Your installers should have given you all this info. Balance point is the point where the heat pump will no longer produce enough heat to keep your home at set temperature. The comfort R feature is no big deal. It provides a little more comfort while sacraficing a little bit of efficiency. You can use either way and see which you like. W1 and W2 jumpered is the lazy ass way to make a system use both stages. Unfortunately, the last stage of heat wont come on until the set time period in the board (up to 15 mins) has elapsed NO matter how cold it is in your home. This can get rather nippy on a cold winter morning when you wake. It needs to be properly wired to a multi-stage thermostat such as the Honeywell Vision Pro stat (and YES, I hate advertising like that. They should pay me). Your O terminal should be wired to the reversing valve. YLo and Y are for a 2 speed heat pump. Your fossil fuel board on the side of the furnace is a termination for most all the low voltage wiring. It handles the switching of the heat pump, furnace, defrost cycle and cooling. If you have the H/W Vision Pro stat, it handles all the functions of that fossil fuel kit. I prefer that way as it removes a lot of controls which can always malfunction and cost the homeowner money. Your system sounds like it isnt working in proper order/sequence. First stage heat pump should always heat first unless it is colder outside than the outdoor temp selection or if the system is in defrost. Continued dropping of the temperature in the house shuts off the heat pump and brings on the second stage of gas heat. A further drop brings on the 3rd stage of gas heat. Keep in mind that the H/W does have its own information logged and will vary this a bit according to the needs IT thinks IT needs. This is also if it is all wired properly and dip switch setting are set right. AGAIN, you need to call the installing company. Tell them your intentions.......that your system is not working properly and you want to have it working as it should. If they cant handle that request, then call another dealer and maybe even a Trane Rep and have it done right. Then decide what you are going to do to recoup the extra dollars you paid to have it done right. You also need to wisely decide to purchase a 5 or 10 yr parts AND labor warranty. It will be well worth it. And Finally.......This is more info than Ive produced in a long long time. You should pay me for it :-) NONE of this info is meant for you to get in and start mucking around with settings. You dont have the knowledge or know how. Have a trained professional do it. Bubba
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Bubba wrote:

Thanks for the reply. I plan on having the installer back on Friday and describing all of these things again to him. You mention the thermostat can control the fossil-fuel kit. I notice my thermostat has an option to enable using the fossil fuel kit, but it is currently disabled. I'll ask the installer about this as well, but could that cause any issues?
Thanks Jason
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NO! Now dont get confused. If you have a stat like the H/W Vision Pro you do NOT need that fossil fuel kit you have hanging on the side of your furnace. The stat does all the switching, thinking and changing. If you ARE using the fossil fuel kit hanging on the side of your furnace then that option should be disabled in the stat. Bubba
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