Hi everybody. I need to replace our existing, officially dead A/C
system before Summer gets serious here in Orlando. I've gotten 3
quotes & am down to just a couple questions. Hopefully you guys can
1) Size. House is 1345 sg ft, in high heat & humidity Florida. I
cannot tell the size of the existing unit & have been told it's 3 ton
or 2.5 depending on who I talk to. I have been quoted on both 3 ton &
2.5 ton. The guy suggesting the 2.5 says longer cycles will control
humidity better & the guys suggesting 3 says it will get on top of the
heat better in broiling July. In all cases a 3 ton variable speed air
handler would be used. Suggestions?
2) Trane vs. Carrier. The 3 possible systems are: 1)Trane XR13 3 ton
with 410 refrigerant & 4TEE3F37B air handler. 2) Carrier 25HCA36 3 ton
with FV4BNF003 air handler. 3) Carrier 25HCA330A003 2.5 ton with
FV4BNF003 air handler. I've been told by the Trane guy that his is a
much better unit. I've been told by the Carrier guy that the entry
level Trane was not designed for the higher pressures of 410 & is a
potential leaker. Carrier also said their air handler is much tighter
& will not draw hot air from the garage where its located.
If it was your house, would you go Trane or Carrier & 3 ton or 2.5?
Thanks in advance for the advice.
Confused in Florida.
First find a contractor that will *DO* a room-by-room heat load/loss
analisys on your home. You could need anywhere from 2 tons to 5 tons. Unless
you do the calculations, your only guessing.
Try here for a competent tech in your area
Did any of these guys offer any actual proof of the supposed shortcomings of
their competitors equipment??
Did any of these folks suggest that their systems would be elegible for the
frderal income tax credit??
Did any of them offer a 10 year parts and labor extended warranty??
Did any of them offer an ARI certificate of efficiency??
Did any of these guys actually *DO* anything besides bash the other brands??
I wouldn't have a Carrier in my home. Trane is a good choice, However I
prefer the brand that I carry.
76-wetbulb a 17 degree drop gets around 45% relative humidity.
You have around 2600 hours of A/C runtime a cooling season, that is
close to the highest runtime hours which is a little south of you in
Florida at 2800 runtime hours a cooling season.
Therefore, getting the heatgain as low as possible before you do
anything else, followed by a thorough testing of the ductwork system for
leaks & proper sizing will be critical to achieve the most efficient
operation of a high SEER system. Do some reading of my page below - with
many more linked info pages on it
"After" you do everything you can to your home to reduce the
heat/humidity-gain, then have an accurate no fudge manual J done, a
Manual D, & a manual S should all be done.
If you want efficiency & a low humidity level, "Never oversize the A/C
Then learn everything you can before making a decision on the contractor
& the equipment you go with.
A proper install is the key factor in whether you get the performance
you paid for!
WISDOM PRINCIPLED EMPOWERMENT COMMUNICATIONS -
THE REAL POLITICAL ISSUES and WISDOM BASED PEOPLE EMPOWERMENT
How do you determine the R value of insulated walls of a home unless you
open them up?
Same goes for windows. How many of us can accuratley determine the R value
of a window or door?
I suspect most guess, which brings into question the reliability of a
Ask 3 contractors to do a manual J and you'll get 4 different results.
It's pretty hard to get a truly accurate heat loss/ cooling load calc in
anything other than a new home with known R values.
I'm not saying you shouldn't do one, but I question the true value of one
on an older home with so many unknown variables. It'll get you in the
ballpark, but 3 different, competent contractors doing a manual J could
come up with 3 different suggestions for needed equipment.
On 13 Mar 2007 10:05:19 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
My Turn! :-)
1) Get 10 more quotes. Line them all up for the same day and space
them out 1 hr apart. Hey, we quote em for free so why not find the
2) Dont worry about the size. You're like everyone else. When its
95-100 degrees out you want the house cooled down quick. Get a 5 ton
and stop worrying about it.
3) Buy a Goodman. They are cheaper so you can get a higher efficiency
unit for less money.
4) Dont worry about a Trane or Carrier. Its going to rust out in
Florida faster anyways so get the cheap unit.
5) Get an R-22 unit. The refrigerant is way less in cost than the
R-410a. Who cares if production of 22 will cease soon.
6) A roll of duct tape will seal all the air gaps you want so dont
worry about a unit in the garage.
7) When you're all finished, sell the house because it will be worth
more with a new HVAC system installed.
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