Motor Load vs HP vs Current

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On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 11:29:14 -0700 (PDT), Bobby Joe

    I merely pointed you to the basic fan laws, as that seemed to be your question. Please don't credit me with the bizarre and incorrect conclusion you seem to have arrived at with them.
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On 07/24/2010 11:29 AM, Bobby Joe wrote:

Actually I just taught you a bunch of motor basics that many people are ignorant of. They go to school, and think that physics classes are for sleeping through. Then one day they need to pick a motor...
But it's good that you didn't. It only begs the question that if you're so damn smart, why did you have to ask a question in the first place?

Go ahead and try to fix your broken system by putting a motor into it that's way too big for the job. Then instead of making the number of problems smaller, you -- or the poor bastard that inherits the result of your maintenance 'genius' -- will have to fix it later, along with all of the problems that it causes.
In the 1970's half the house fires my dad fought were from jokers that "improved" their house wiring by putting pennies behind their fuses. They were maintenance 'geniuses', too.
And you know what? If you come on this group again, asking how to bypass your circuit breakers so that you can run 50 toasters in your kitchen? I won't tell you how to do it! Instead, you'll get a lecture on basic physics! And maybe even house fires!
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Tim Wescott
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Since the motor is over amping. Another poster suggested load may be high or low. I'd also want to flush out the berrings, and relubricate. Might be full of dried out oil or grease.
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On Jul 24, 5:47 pm, "Stormin Mormon"

or the Voltage at the motor is too LOW, yes LOW..
Mark
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wrote:

    Oh, kee-rist.
    It's a little 1/2 HP residential blower motor - sealed bearings.

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On Sun, 25 Jul 2010 09:25:21 -0500, "Oscar_Lives"

    I guess if the leads are trimmed really close, that means it's Jewish ( been snipped ) ?
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.p.jm.@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:

Click WHERE? All I see is plain text. If you want a link that works for everyone, you need to prefix the text with http://
Like this: http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com
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Real Pisser wrote:

My point is that not all news readers see it as a hot link, without the http:// prefix.
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On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 09:39:31 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"

    Thanks so much for the internet wisdom. Seeing as it works just fine for everyone else the way it is, I think I'll just leave it like that.
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.p.jm.@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:

Fine. I hope that you enjoy your glass belly button.
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Sure, if the voltage is too LOW, the motor won't run EFFICIENTLY. Yes, EFFICIENTLY.
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Bobby Joe wrote:

Not just HP vs. RPM. Think winding. Doesn' tha motor has any speed taps? If it is running at hi speed tap and bogging down, The motor is too small. Byt other factors are duct size, blower blade pitch/size, mothr efficiency. Not all is created equal. Also why is the voltage sagging? If you turn off the motor, it does not happen? Thin simple.
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On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 09:18:14 -0700 (PDT), Bobby Joe
Guessing from your choice of groups and your posts - are you an EE ?
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Bobby Joe wrote:

If I were you, I'd start by diagnosing why the motor is running slow and drawing too much current. Its highly unlikely that a motor as a component of some appliance would have been designed to run in such a manner. The only other possibility is that something has gone wrong.
A run cap has failed, centrifugal starting switch is stuck, excess voltage drop in the contactor or supply ckt., frozen bearing, etc.
Find the problem and fix it. The motor may still be OK. If you just drive a stuck fan with a bigger motor, eventually that bearing will really freeze and burn the new motor up as well.
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On 7/24/2010 11:18 AM, Bobby Joe wrote:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/AO-SMITH-Direct-Drive-Blower-Motor-4KA36?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Direct-Drive-Blower-Motor-4M183?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Direct-Drive-Blower-Motor-3LU91?Pid=search
It sounds like you have an electrical supply problem and you're chasing butterflies. You mentioned losing connection to the net, I would assume you're referring to your Internet connection and the power to the whole house is sagging. If that's the case, your problem may be in your main electrical panel. It's not unusual for loose connections in main electrical panels to burn up in hot weather when heavy loads from AC systems stress them to the braking point. I would start at the main electrical panel first and inspect ALL of the connections and circuit breakers related to your AC unit. I've traced many AC problems back to the electrical service.
TDD
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I've seen service panel problems. It sounds like good advice, to check the panel box. Look for white corrosion, or dark burnt areas. If you find either, call a licenesed electrician.
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Bobby Joe wrote:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/AO-SMITH-Direct-Drive-Blower-Motor-4KA36?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Direct-Drive-Blower-Motor-4M183?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Direct-Drive-Blower-Motor-3LU91?Pid=search
Was the motor working normal before? If answer is yes, either you have bad cap. or dying motor motor. Over or under rated motor has poor efficiency. RPM is pretty steady at rated independent of Hp.
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Any chance that wire has loop where you are taking current reading?
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