Match 13 Seer Compressor with 10 Seer Coil?

I have a 10 year old Trane furnace which apparently came with a 10 Seer coil. It was installed to go with an existing Bryant 8.5 Seer compressor, which is now 20 years old and needs to be replaced.

I've been told that I can probably get an expansion valve so that the Trane coil will work with a new 13 seer compressor.

Is this a good idea?

Do I lose the efficiency benefits of the 13 seer compressor?

What should an expansion valve cost?

Reply to
km
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No

Yes

Whatever the hack charges you.

Reply to
<kjpro

Just have the coil changed with a TXV on it.

Reply to
daytona°

ummm....no

no

yes

Without getting the correct coil *AND* expantion valve, you wasting your money. You might also check to see if your existing furnace is rated for 13+ SEER systems. A lot of manufacturers require a variable speed blower to reach the advertised 13 SEER.

Reply to
Noon-Air

Sometimes it&#39;s just fun to read. I&#39;m still left speechless at times with the hackery that goes on out there. Bubba

Reply to
Bubba

Why ?

Reply to
Jeffrey Lebowski

KM I am not AC person and I know I will get bombarded by arrogance from some guys out there for what I am going to say the only way you will get high efficiency if all components are matched, however choosing 13 seer condenser with all

10 seer cooling coil you will not get less then 10 seer perhaps even 12. is it good idea to do this "no" it is not but vs. cost of installing new coil it maybe cost effective because your new unit will not last 20 years that I can guarantee, new units that are manufacture is nothing more then throw way crap. So if I was you replace condenser and use old coil. Tony
Reply to
Tony

The SEER Rating is a combination of the condenser and the compressor as it is matched with a evaporator coil. What is the tonnage of the 10 SEER E-Coil? What is the tonnage of the rated 8.5 condensing unit?

Where do you live? I will look up the Summer design dry-bulb & Wet-bulb figures for your area. Do a Manual J to find out what the BTU/hr heat-gain is. Then do a manual D on the ductwork. Make sure there are NO duct leaks!

Then do everything you can to Reduce the heat-gain of your home! I personally, would borrow the money if necessary to reduce the cooling & heating BTUH requirements.

The 13-SEER holds considerably more Refrigerant than a 8.5 or 10-SEER condenser, therefore if you can downsize the condenser tonnage by a Ton below the E-Coil, & by installing a TXV, it "might" work without causing damage the compressor. (A proficient TECH could determine if it is operating within normal perimeters - Efficiency of operation could be determined within a ball park figure.)

It is important to get enough heatload on the condenser to make it function near its capacity. The blower and duct design locations of the Return air intakes & Supply air outlets makes a difference depending on how well the air is mixed.

All of the above is mere theory that you can discuss with local contractors, do NOT follow it as advice! Discuss all the dimensions of your situation with a number of local HVAC Contractors and follow the best advice you get! Learn all you can before making a decision! - udarrell

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I am NOT liable for your decisions, you make your decisions along with your contractor(s) Advice! - udarrell

Reply to
udarrell

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