Leak

i epoxied a pipe on an auto condenser. Should that hold? I used jb fast and jb weld on a tiny slit. First cleaned it up real good, even tried to scrape it shut first.
Greg
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wrote:

    For at least the 30/30 warranty.
    30 seconds or 30 feet.

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Won't work... been tried... even by folks that supposed to knew what they were doing.... still didn't work.
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wrote:

    Everyone knows, the only thing that works is Bondo ....
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On 6/23/2011 8:44 PM, .p.jm.@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:

Duct tape is the only thing that works

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On 6/23/2011 6:05 PM, Gz wrote:

I assume that the pipe/line is aluminum. Here are several links to some information that may help you out. Trying to solder/braze the aluminum line is not really recommended because it is easy to burn through or weaken the tubing with heat.
http://preview.tinyurl.com/6kh5jeg
An aluminum brazing rod that may be safe to use:
http://preview.tinyurl.com/6g34krl
Aluminum repair epoxies for evaporators and tubing:
http://preview.tinyurl.com/6ck8w7c
http://www.laco.com/prod/45/heat-seal-stik-premixed-epoxy-sealer.aspx
http://www.highsidechem.com/redepxy.html
The key to the use of epoxy for the repair is careful preparation.
TDD
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It might hold for quite awhile , especially if you put a double layer on the leak with time for the first layer to setup real good . The preparation of the spot to be worked on is very very important --- sand it down real well then clean it with rubbing alchohol and let dry. Apply the first layer reasonably thick then let dry for a good 1.5 days before applying a second layer and waiting another 1.5 days before recharging the system. If that doesnt work, then try a product from AutoZone which is used to cold weld exhaust manifolds...cant remember the name of it right off hand but it has the word 'Thermo' something in it ; I fixed an exhaust manifold crack with this stuff and it held well. Only about $6.
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Should work fine. Now, evacuate to 400 microns, leak check, and charge by weight.
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