Is A/C capacitor supposed to look like this?

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On May 4, 8:07 pm, "Stormin Mormon"

Well, what doesn't kill us makes us more knowledgeable. I did know enough to turn off all breakers including the one to the air handler before monkeying with the outside unit so I wasn't in any danger.
Next I need to clean the internal coils. Just looked at 'em, they're nasty. Obviously with as much suction as I'm getting plenty of air is getting through but they definitely need cleaning.
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Will you be using a belt sander to clean the inside coils? That's what professional idiots use. 60 grit open kote red garnet is good.
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Christopher A. Young
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On May 4, 9:02 pm, "Stormin Mormon"

Heck no, gonna fire up my trusty air chisel to really get those tough deposits. If you're gonna do something, do it right I say.
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On May 4, 8:07 pm, "Stormin Mormon"

Glad you got it running again. The run caps are usually cheap enough that, even if you are not able to test, replacing them is worth a shot. All you care about are the specs on it. Any shape will do. Occasionally you have to fiddle around with the bracket to get it bolted back to the chassis. Nice you found a supply house that was helpful even though I suspect it was easy to tell you are a homeowner. The hvac trade is extremely anti-diy.
You missed the breaker that the 24v transformer for the thermostat is on. The air handler starts the outside unit with a 24v ac supply to that contactor, aka relay. Unlike electrolytic capacitors these capacitors are not polarized so there are no positive or negative terminals. This is an ac circuit not dc. That board with the flashing led is the defrost board. It's not involved in the operation when you are using the unit in the cooling mode. Steady flashing usually means it is ok. When there is something wrong it will flash a signal where you can use the number of flashes to look up different problems. There should be a couple pages of spec sheets in an envelope inside the uinit and the flash code is often on those.
A few units will have a pressure switch that prevents the compressor from starting up if the unit has lost the refrigerant. Don't know if this one does or not, it's not all that common.
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As the other poster said, the contactor is powered by the 24V from the air handler inside your house. So even if you turned off the 240V, you would still here the relay click.
Congrats on fixing the unit yourself despite the sarcastic remarks some of these idiots made.
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I'm a professional idiot. Sarcastic comments are included in my job description.
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Christopher A. Young
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On Tue, 4 May 2010 21:01:21 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
Its about time you were honest about yourself.
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The King wrote:

It would really be nice if you deleted the bullshit groups and stayed with alt.hvac.
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wrote:

Do as i say not as i do is your moto isnt it. Fuck off.
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The King wrote:

Gee, that really hurt my feelings. Piss me off and I will turn the Mormon loose on you.
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At your service, O great one. May you live forever.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Don't encourage the incorrigible, he thrives on it. He might run a background check on you. ROTFLMAO
TDD
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The Daring Dufas wrote:

Apparently that makes you nervous. Something to hide, Dufas?
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Alexander wrote:

No, it doesn't because I've had background checks run on me by the feds so I could get into places that you will never be allowed to go. I also know how to avoid creating data trails and I can guarantee that you can not find any information on me. Don't waste your time trying. ROTFL
TDD
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Eek! The thought! He might find out that it's on my Permanant Record that I was throwing food in the cafeteria in 4th grade. That's the kind of thing that could prevent me from ever getting a job.
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wrote:

Cruel and unusual to be sure.
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The King wrote:

What can I say? Sometimes I just go too far.
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and that's on your business card
---
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And my yellow page ad, but you'd never know that.
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Mikepier wrote:

That's what happens if you crosspost to alt.hvac.
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