HVAC run and start capacitors

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Which HVAC capacitors are most likely to fail? (run caps, starting caps or does it matter)
If there a brand that's better then the rest?. It appears they all come from Mexico or China. I can't seem to find Mallory or GE any more.
If a dual 440V cap is rated as 60+10 is either a 55+10 or 60+7.5 an acceptable substitute long term?
TIA
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If my memory serves me:
There is a + or - allowance of (about) 10% on capacitor replacement. A 55 may work fine in place of a 60, but I wouldn't replace a 10 for a 7.5 (or the other way around). Even when they do fall in the allowable range, it should only be used temporarily until the proper one can be obtained...
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Plastic ones

Very astute observation

No
YW
Now call you local *COMPETENT*, licensed, insured, professionally trained, HVAC tech that will probably have the exact OEM replacement part on the truck. While he is there, have him clean and service the system. Then pay the man.
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If you're trying to decide what capacitors to stock, a lot depends on the equipment you normally service. As for brand, go with what your supply house sells.
I'm not sure if this applies to start capacitors also, so these comments are about run capacitors.
The 10% +/- formula will get you through in a pinch, but it's not a good idea to make a habit of it, and you should always try to get back with the right capacitor ASAP.
If you have the physical room, you're better off combining different capacitors. You can combine a multitude of single duty and dual capacitors to achieve different ratings. It may not look great, but it'll get the job done. Just be sure to secure them properly.
If you wire two capacitors in parallel, the mfd rating becomes the total of the two mfd ratings. The voltage rating will be equal to the lowest voltage rating on either capacitor. e.g.: a 35mfd/370v plus a 10mfd/440v is equal to a 45mfd/370v.
If you replace a three terminal dual 35mfd/10mfd/370v capacitor, you can use a three terminal 35mfd/5mfd/370v and a separate 5mfd/370v, two terminal capacitor. Put a jumper wire from the 5mfd capacitor's "C" terminal to the "C" terminal on the three terminal capacitor, and another jumper from the other terminal of the 5mfd capacitor to the terminal marked "Fan" on the three terminal capacitor. You can also use a two terminal 35mfd/370v capacitor and a separate two terminal 10mfd/370v capacitor. Either one of these combinations will get the job done.
You can make a lot of combo's this way.

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There's also the Amrad Turbo200 field configurable cap.
http://www.americanradionic.com/content/view/31/61 /
I just wonder if they're a reliable cap?
wrote:

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Don't know. My supply house has them, but I have no experience with them. They looked a little bulky and pricy, and I already stocked up to 45mfd and several duals.

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It is not recommended to undersize a capacitor at all for either voltage or mf. You can go up to 10% over on mf rating and I don't know what the over voltage could be allowed (I frequently use 440 for 370).
I have found them to be very reliable. I keep 2-3 of them on the truck and use them when I have to. I normally will have the right cap in the truck though. Inexpensive to stock the truck with a complete inventory of both the run and start varieties. Cost is the issue for using them exclusively over the OEM caps.
In fact I carry the sizable V-belts on the truck too. After lengthy field trials they appear to last as long or longer than the regular v-belts. Again the issue for not using them exclusively is the cost factor. But great for emergencies and when a trip to the supplier is costly.
Joseph
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I've used 3 of them in the past year and as far as I can tell, they are still running. The only thing I don't like about them is they are rather large (almost the size of a Coke can) and they are a little pricey (I think I paid $35 for the last one).
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You're right they are pricey. I looked them up in the Johnstone catalog and they're about $80+ for the 200X. model. A std. 60+10/440V is about $33.
But dimensionally they spec'd out the same. In fact the 200X was about 1/4" shorter.
On Mon, 28 Jan 2008 01:34:34 GMT, "Dr. Hardcrab"

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Physical size doesn't mean anything. only the microfarad value and voltage are important.
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You simply jumper them to the value(s) you want and they come rated 440V. I think the model 200X had enough sections to jumper to 60+10.
I just don't know if all these seperate sections in one can lead to greater potential for long term reliablity issues.
wrote:

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Thats not an issue if you carry and install OEM parts.
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I agree. I'm not in service anymore (don't be hatin' me) but I still have "friends" calling me that I haven't heard from in a long while:
"Hey! How you doin'? Blah-blah-blah Oh, and by the way, I am having trouble with my heat pump....."
Had 3 last summer where they said "The outside unit is running but the fan is not and it's getting real hot!" I know it can be several things but each time I took one of those universal caps with me and each had a swollen capacitor. Swapped it out and they were up and running. I DID go back on two of them and put an OEM back on (within a month). The other still has one on it....
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Do you really carry OEM vs. generic parts? Even for common things like capacitors, contactors, motors, etc?
For example, if Goodman, Rheem, Carrier all specify their own P/N for the same value run cap then you'd use the P/N from the manufacturer vs. stocking generic/same value caps from the supply house? You must have a pretty big station wagon to hold all these OEM parts :-).
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Do you really carry OEM vs. generic parts? Even for common things like capacitors, contactors, motors, etc?
For example, if Goodman, Rheem, Carrier all specify their own P/N for the same value run cap then you'd use the P/N from the manufacturer vs. stocking generic/same value caps from the supply house? You must have a pretty big station wagon to hold all these OEM parts :-).
Rheem, RUUD, and Weatherking all use the *SAME* parts and part numbers. I carry enough of basic parts so that I can install exact equivelant value replacement parts on *most* all systems. In most cases, the parts I install are a lot better quality than the part that failed. FWIW, I don't *DO* station wagons.
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What's the difference from your Ranger and a station wagon noonie? Your pickups in most anyones book are personal vehicles. Lettering a little pickup with a personal cap not a commercial cap is laughable hack boy. Hack you ask? Yeah. I bet if you are giving your customers 60% delivered air they are doing good. Makes you like every other half-ass like your mentor Turtle.
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wrote:

Sorry, I have *NEVER* owned a Ranger.

Actually not... but then you probably don't have a clue about being incorporated either.

Sorry sport, wrong again

Yeah right.

If ignorance is bliss, you must be euphoric. Bring your hummingbird ass down here and observe *FIRST HAND* what I do and how I do it, otherwise STFU
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keep them from taking all you own.

Noonie most know exactly what you do. That you think you're better than any other hack is laughable. Your post with the filters nailed your ass. Seeing as you were too big a pussy to post the duct static you size for. Still want to talk quality? How about you talk about your need for training? I pity your customers.
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Nooner's a good guy. He's helped me on more then one ocassion. I didn't mean to make fun of his station wagon.
Does he remove the kill filter after so much time in the penalty box??

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His nose would snap off if he actually used it.
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