Different strokes for different folks I guess. IMO if your going to
charge top dollar you should have enough professional integrity to do
the job right and in this case make an attempt to find the leak. A
quality the OP's tech apparently doesn't posses.
Maybe he was out of Windex leak detector. :)
As I said, limits don't matter check the PT chart it will tell you if theres
Your pulling "venturi effect" out your your ass and you know it...it's not
going to happen except perhaps once in a thousand years because the
specific conditions that must be met are all but completely impossible to
Fuck it just sell them a new condensor...
--( your question has little if anything to do with your determining whether
or not there were non-condensables in the refrigerant ).
Referring someone to specific federal law enacted by the government agency
having jurisdiction over refrigerant purity is "pawning it off" according to
your twisted view....
Daltons law describes the effect on pressure with a combination of
gases and Charles law describes how pressure and volume react to a
change in temperature.
P.S. The condensing unit is indoors, there is liquid in the system,
the sg moisture indicator goes from green to yellow. The moisture in
the system freezes at the metering device causing a temporary
restriction that cycles the unit off on the pressure control above
atmospheric pressure for a short period at which point the moisture
thaws and the cycle repeats.
How does the moisture get into the system?
Yeah I forget exactly but temp/ vapor pressure relationship is basic gas law
not going to look it up.
Not sure where you are going with this but feel free explain--it does appear
you are assuming above there already was enough moisture present in the
sysyem to freeze and cause a restriction.
So also need to explain how the moisture got there in the first place though
I suppose it could become more concentrated upon repeated topping off.
Still, this has little to do with the need for checking pressure temp in
order to verify non-condensibles as opposed to routinely replacing the
entire charge because there "could be" moisture in it.
trapped in the drier. After the drier absorbs to capacity the excess
carries along with the refrigerant and oil. That makes nasties as you
know. Eventually the compressor burns out. That's why is always good
practice to change the drier every time you open a system.
Just think, with todays POE oil and if there's a moisture problem you
also must change the oil and the new oil can only be exposed to
atmosphere for 15 minutes tops. If POE oil is exposed longer than
that has just become bio waste. That's not a big deal with a semi
hermitic but it can be with a tin can.
You're right about the way to check for non-condensibles. Usually if
you find non-conds in a system you have a larger issue.
Well -410 and POE wasnt a part of the original discussion here--actually it
was the OP has a -22 system and is tired of the runaround concerning a
supposed evap leak and so he was considering a complete replacement vs $1200
to replace the evap.
My own experience here is that before doing anything else make him take a
beeper to the schraders.
Maybe then at least I got one thing right this time.
Yeah right, I'd much rather go back and replace his *new* "shit" evap under
warranty (at my expense) because it's rotted from the inside out.
Why don't you and the OP get together and find a clue!
5 year MANUFACTURE WARRANTY!!!!!
It's your puppy, if you didn't do the job correctly the first time!!!!
Get a damn clue dude... you're so far off in left field your complete
business theory is blown to hell.
Your wasting your breath.... he doesn't have a clue about resi, just
centrifugal chillers and industrial. But that all you can get from sitting
on the bench in the union hall.
I bet he would freak if he looked inside the heat pump system I installed
last week. Prolly not too many in here have seen a mother board with a
daughter board in a resi heat pump...... and that doesn't include the boards
in the AHU or furnace.
This is the particular equipment match that I installed;
Split System: Heat Pump with Remote Outdoor Unit-Air-Source
Outdoor Unit Model Number: RPNL-030JEZ
Indoor Unit Model Number: RHLL-HM3617+RCSL-H*3617A*
Manufactured by: RHEEM MANUFACTURING COMPANY
under the Trade/Brand name: RHEEM RPNL SERIES
has been rated in accordance with
ARI Standard 210/240-2006 for UNITARY AIR-CONDITIONING AND AIR-SOURCE HEAT
and is certified by the Air-Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration
Institute to meet
the following product performance ratings:
Cooling Capacity (Btuh): 29800
EER Rating (Cooling): 12.75
SEER Rating (Cooling): 15.00*
Heating Capacity(Btuh) @ 47 F: 31600*
Region IV HSPF Rating (Heating) 9.25
Heating Capacity(Btuh) @ 17 F: 19800*
A * following a rating indicates a voluntary rerate of previously published
data, unless accompanied with a WAS which indicates an involuntary rerate.
ARI Reference #: 3228149
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