High efficiency boiler question?

1. Any one have a High efficiency boiler, has your fuel consumption gone down, if so how much % wise?
2. It takes more energy for a furnace in a home to heat 70F air instead of 100F air. Likewise a high efficiency boiler's Air Vent Intake with air of -10F in winter cannot possibly be 92% efficient???????? (Those AFUE values are probably done in spring like weather?)
3. Actually I'm a little suspicious why high efficiency boilers need an air intake but not regular cast iron boilers, my point of vue is they need cold air from the air intake to promote condensation which defeats the purpose and any $ savings???
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1. My customers 30 - 50 %
2 not 92%....94.6%
3 It has been proven to use outside air to combust fuels, because you are not using inside air that has already been heated. Thus causing a vacuum to the point you are drawing outside from some place to equal the air being drafted up the chimney. Where do you think the O comes from to combust fuels?????
4. if you wonder so much....you can design a more efficient hot water heating boiler then

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Yes.
Whatever you say, Einstein.

Wow, you figured out the secret. The damn Iraqis have come up with that design and were trying to get us to use more oil.
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Oscar_Lives wrote:

It can't possibly be 93% efficient with -10F air ventilation intake (same size as the chimney exhaust) in winter???
No Einstein, just logic since it takes energy to heat air from 70F to 110F, likewise more energy most be consumed if the air ventilation intake in winter is -10F (drops the temperature of the burner's flame)?
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Hey Einstein: Tell me more about this cold flame. Most of them I have seen have been pretty hot.
Thanks.
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On 6 Aug 2006 08:31:33 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

2,785f - 80 = 2,705f

-zero
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zero wrote:

Seems to makes sense although flame is 300 to 400F...
.... but as oppposite, if one instead measures the hot air exciting out of a chimney (120F?)and compares it with the same diameter size ventilation cold -10F air going into the boiler (or the energy needed to heat furnace air) then the effect is more considerable??
As well I believe a ventilation air intake is manditory for high efficiency condensing boilers but NOT FOR CAST IRON....logically it seems they do it on purpose to lower the temperature and generate condensation (flue gas ONLY condensates below 130F) which defeats the purpose (meaning not 93% efficient)??
In spring warmer air vent intake is ok because the boiler runs less hot (below 130-140F)?
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zero wrote:

Seems to makes sense although flame is 300 to 400F...
No, it's much hotter. No one can teach you years of info thru a bunch of usenet posts.
See the link I posted in your other thread.
.... but as oppposite, if one instead measures the hot air exciting out of a chimney (120F?)and compares it with the same diameter size ventilation cold -10F air going into the boiler (or the energy needed to heat furnace air) then the effect is more considerable??
As well I believe a ventilation air intake is manditory for high efficiency condensing boilers but NOT FOR CAST IRON..
Your very wrong. Always follow the manufacturers installation instructions per that specific piece of equipment.
..logically it seems they do it on purpose to lower the temperature and generate condensation (flue gas ONLY condensates below 130F) which defeats the purpose (meaning not 93% efficient)??
In spring warmer air vent intake is ok because the boiler runs less hot (below 130-140F)?
Nope. You need to start over. (...or are you troll patrol?)
-zero
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