Yep
Probably, since it is 80% R-134a and 20% R-142b and would probably have a
400 series number.
Not if someone makes a combo unit, heck the ones for cars are usually receiver, drier, and sight glass all in one unit.
Yep.
Wow.
Yep
Probably, since it is 80% R-134a and 20% R-142b and would probably have a
400 series number.
Not if someone makes a combo unit, heck the ones for cars are usually receiver, drier, and sight glass all in one unit.
Yep.
Wow.
Sure, when the sight glass first goes clear instead of having bubbles go past it means the liquid level in the receiver has risen above the bottom of the outlet dip tube, if you then add another ounce of refrigerant to the system that ounce will be almost entirely held as a higher liquid level in the receiver, if you overcharge the system the receiver will become completely filled with liquid which will cause the liquid to back up into the condenser and reduce its effective condensing area which will raise the head pressure.
For optimal performance you want as close to the entire condenser and evaporator coil as possible to be active with a mix of vapor and liquid. In actual operation this isn't actually possible as the first part of the condenser will always be rejecting the discharge gas's superheat and the last part of the evaporator will be "dry" to avoid liquid floodback of the compressor.
Yeh, but is it Halal ?
Also - this is properly done when the system is within normal operating parameters.
Which of course is quantified in terms of superheat.
Just thought I'd throw that in.
Correct, if it is 90° dry bulb inside etc. all bets are off, also I have seen so many screwups online with systems hacked in, things like TXV balance line not hooked up or the sensing bulb not properly strapped and insulated, let alone not enough airflow due to improper ductwork.
Thank you., and in this case it would be suction superheat.
I use word "GAS" let them decide what I am putting in
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