Heat Pump Fan Motor Install Question

Same with the black wire, the only other wires attached to the incoming power side of the contactor besides the hot wires would be an optional crankcase heater. There are a few different crankcase heaters but there would be a pair of small wires that stayed energized when the compressor isn't running going to the CC heater which can be a stainless steel band that wraps around the lower part of the compressor housing or a ceramic cartridge around an inch in diameter stuck into a well in the base of the compressor. ^_^

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TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas
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With the wiring you describe, and 230 volt system. I'd call the black wire hot, and I'd call the yellow wire hot.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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From looking at my diagram, the motors only appears to be only 230v at start up. Excludingthe capacitor, that leaves two wires: Black and Yellow. Black is "Hot". Just what, then, are you going to call the other wire--do you prefer the term "neutral"?

Bill

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I am thinking it is only a 230v system because of the capacitor. There appears to be only 1 pole powering the fan motor. Does one refer to both wires power a 110v appliance as hot? Admittedly, they are both carrying current.

In your terms, the latter hot wire is connect to common, or somewhat equivalently, back at the main panel, ground.

Bill

Reply to
Bill

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I am thinking it is only a 230v system because of the capacitor.

CY: Most central AC and heat pumps, use 230 volt compressor, and 230 volt fans.

There appears to be only 1 pole powering the fan motor.

CY: One pole is switched.

Does one refer to both wires power a 110v appliance as hot? Admittedly, they are both carrying current.

CY: In 110 appliances, there is typically a black hot, and a white neutral.

In your terms, the latter hot wire is connect to common, or somewhat equivalently, back at the main panel, ground.

CY: From the fan wiring I've done, black and yellow are both hot.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

But only when the fan is actually running, right (see what I mean, there IS a difference). Kind of like whether you put a disconnect in front of an appliance or after it.

TY VM SM! I've "seen you around" the Usenet

Bill

Reply to
Bill

Both black and yellow are hots. One of course is switched. So, one is hot only when the contactor is pulled. (switched hot, y'know.) But, if you follow the wires to the other side of the contactor, they are both hot, all the time.

In the case of 110 volt appliance, one is hot, other is neutral. Switched on or off.

YW, glad to have met you around the usenet.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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But only when the fan is actually running, right (see what I mean, there IS a difference). Kind of like whether you put a disconnect in front of an appliance or after it.

TY VM SM! I've "seen you around" the Usenet

Bill

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

As I had my condensing unit disconnected for a few days, I reconnected it to evaporate any of the refrigerant that may possibly have combined with the crankcase oil. Even if I replace the fan, I'll be sure 24 hours have passed before I test the system. That's the "standard" waiting period, isn't it?

Bill

Reply to
Bill

You could always heat the crankcase with a propane torch. ^_^

TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

I think there's a waiting period, and a background check. Oh, you were talking about crankcase heaters?

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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As I had my condensing unit disconnected for a few days, I reconnected it to evaporate any of the refrigerant that may possibly have combined with the crankcase oil. Even if I replace the fan, I'll be sure 24 hours have passed before I test the system. That's the "standard" waiting period, isn't it?

Bill

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

What? And avoid the background check?

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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You could always heat the crankcase with a propane torch. ^_^

TDD

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

That shouldn't be a problem or an issue unless its either a heat pump and its winter, or you turned the condenser upside down.

Reply to
Steve

It depend on type gas was in system and type of oil??? You as technician must decide that at time you examine the equipment.

Reply to
Grumpy

The length of the line is an important fact took no?

Reply to
Bill

Yes, it's a heat pump. The "Assembly Booklet" says to wait at least 24 hours, so I will.

Thank you, Bill

Reply to
Bill

Oh, I didn't notice you said "and its winter".

Reply to
Bill

SM: I think I'm getting it at another level. There nothing to keep what's on Common from coming back, if you will, and zapping you in the butt!!! : ) I'd say that qualifies it as "hot". Is that about right?

Bill

Reply to
Bill

I believe SM is incorrect. NEC requires both legs (conductors) to be disconnected by the contactor for a 240VAC load.

The motor will be a single phase 240VAC 60HZ motor (well, technically split phase, but there is a single electrical phase driving it).

Each of the black and yellow will measure 120v to ground if you test them with a multimeter, and they should test 240v to each other when the load side of the contactor is energized (the line side of the contactor will measure hot unless the compressor disconnect is activated or the breaker is disenaged).

scott

Reply to
Scott Lurndal
230 volt systems typically don't have a common wire. They have two hots, and a ground.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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SM: I think I'm getting it at another level. There nothing to keep what's on Common from coming back, if you will, and zapping you in the butt!!! : ) I'd say that qualifies it as "hot". Is that about right?

Bill

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Hmm. I've worked on a lot of illegal devices, then. Most residential AC outdoor units have a single leg that's switched.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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I believe SM is incorrect. NEC requires both legs (conductors) to be disconnected by the contactor for a 240VAC load.

The motor will be a single phase 240VAC 60HZ motor (well, technically split phase, but there is a single electrical phase driving it).

Each of the black and yellow will measure 120v to ground if you test them with a multimeter, and they should test 240v to each other when the load side of the contactor is energized (the line side of the contactor will measure hot unless the compressor disconnect is activated or the breaker is disenaged).

scott

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Thank you for helping me to accept that. Alot of evidence was building up on that side, and I've been fighting it tooth and nail. The wiring diagram, and the rest of the pieces, makes more sense in that light!

Dern lady at the electrical supply emphasized I should attach the yellow wire to Common!!!

Thank you again!

Bill

Reply to
Bill

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