Hello. I have a relatively new house (2.5 years) that has an American
Standard Heat Pump (2a6b3018-060a1000a). It also has some form of
American Standard aux heater (bayhtr???) in the air handler. This is
controlled by a Panasonic TH8000 thermostat.
We have had a long period of cold weather here in Seattle and I have
noticed that during this time two unusual behaviors are happening with
my heating system:
(a) I have not see the AUX Heat indicator come on on the TH8000
thermostat. I have seen this frequently before and I took it to mean
that the aux heater was helping the heat pump along. But I have not seen
it at all in at least a week and I have looked frequently at the thermostat.
(b) There are times when the heat pump is not operating (I can see the
fan blades stopped) but there is significant cool air (not icy cold but
certainly not warm) coming out of my heating ducts. It is clearly being
blown by a circulating fan in the system but there is no warmth.
I have looked as much as I can at the heating unit under the house and
see nothing unusual. I checked the electronic air filter and it seems fine.
Any idea what may be wrong here? Thanks.
I have 1 million ideas as to what can be wrong. Send me a dollar per
idea and we can play, otherwise you can call a licensed hvac
contractor and they can actually walk up, touch it, see it, and fix
it. Merry Christmas!
I am the real ftwhd and I approve this message.
Come on, guys, how bout giving him a straight answer. It's probably
going through a defrost cycle. Your HVAC guy can adjust it so that the
heat strips kick in when it's in defrost so you don't feel so cold.
Thanks. I have tried putting the thing into emergency heat mode and I
find that this both gets heat coming from the registers but also gets
the aux heat indicator showing on the thermostat. So it seems that at
least part of the thermostat is ok and that the heater is working. But I
am not sure what to conclude must be wrong here. Happy holidays!
Most likely there's nothing at all wrong with your thermostat--but with a
trane / american standard then in order to get your electric strips to come
on during condensor defrost you need to connect the black wire ( defrost
signal ) at the condensing unit outside up to the aux heat terminal at the
inside air handler--probably you'll find there is a spare white wire that
you can use for this.
Thanks for your tip and happy holidays to you. Can you think of any
reason why this would have been working fine and suddenly stops working?
Perhaps it is in some way due to this very long and cold spell we have
had here in Seattle recently? I have to believe that this has been wired
correctly as I know I have seen the aux heat indicator come on the
thermostat before. I remember having to look it up in the thermostat
manual to find out what it means. Cheers!
Thanks once again for your responses. I just found some info on the
that made me start checking things more carefully.
When this cold spell hit, I raised the temperatures on my thermostat
schedules. I have never done this before. Under the previous schedule, I
had simply raised the temp manually on the thermostat to what I wanted
when needed. Thinking back, this is when I typically saw the aux heat
indicator show on the thermostat.
So I just manually raised the temperature from its current setting by a
couple degrees and indeed the thermostat does show the aux heat
indicator. For this reason, I am thinking that the aux heater does, in
However, I am not sure about if it is working during the defrost cycle
of the heat pump. I only found out recently that there was such a thing.
I may never have noticed it before because it has never been this cold
this long since I have been in this house with the heat pump. Maybe the
heat pump only has to go through a defrost cycle when it is very cold.
Or maybe it does it frequently but I have only noticed it now because
the air being used right now is so very cold.
Do I have to call in a pro to see it the thing is properly set/wired so
that the aux heat comes on during the defrost cycle? Or is there some
way I can check that?
Thanks and happy holidays to all!
Yes defrost only happens when its fairly cold outside, and the colder it
gets outside the more noticable the cold air blast inside will be.
Yes it would be a good idea to call in a pro, like I say it's the black wire
outside that needs to be traced /connected up to aux ( you will find voltage
there in relation to common only during defrost )--also suggest ask him
about a lockout thermostat, this is placed outdoors and can lower your
operating costs by locking out the electric strips unless the outdoors temps
drop below a set value say 40 deg or so.
As far as testing, its easy to test defrost operation--there's probably a
tst and speedup jumper wire or somesuch on the board but off the top of my
head I cant recall the exact configuration that trane / american standard
uses at this point in time.
You need to do what you need to do. Anything could have happened or
nothing at all did. Remember, during defrost, the aux heat strips kick
in to "TEMPER" the air. Its not meant to heat the home at that time.
Watch the info you get from all the crack pots in here like "doh" and
others that want you to add a wire to something or others that think
we all owe you something and should answer your every question with a
smile. This group was mainly started with all professionals. In other
words, this is what we do to put food on our tables. If everyone
answered for free it wouldnt make a whole lot of sense for us. Take
what you get.
Well no shit dude glad to see that maybe you finally learning to keep up.
Go fuck yourself most likely you don't encounter a heat pump with electric
more often that perhaps 3 times per decade.
--Pretty sure it was you about 2 years back that was trying to tell us all
about how best to add an outdoors thermostat so as to shut the heat pump
clear off and go to aux only during cold spells but hey now it's not worth
my time looking it up.
It has been suggested that the thermostat is in adaptive recovery mode
because I switched the scheduled temperatures. An I have seen the
recovery indicator on the thermostat so that must be the case.
I think I understand that while in this mode, the thermostat does NOT
call upon the aux heater. The manual says it can take about a week for
the system to adjust. But does this recovery mode only kick-in around
the time(s) that the schedule changes? It seems like that is the only
time I see the recover indicator shown on the thermostat.
I feel the cold blasts at times other than when the schedule changes and
I see the recovery indicator on the thermostat. So these may be defrost
periods. Would the thermostat in recovery mode have any effect on the
use of the aux heater during defrost?
I feel that with your help I am starting to focus in on the problem and
actually understand a little more of how my system works. Thanks again
for all your time and help. Happy holidays.
Obviously your not happy or comfortable with the way the system is
operating. We can't check it or make any needed repairs or adjustments
through the computer. Instead of screwing around on here and never *KNOWING*
if its its right or not, make the call to your favorite *competent*,
licensed, insured, professionally trained, HVAC technician to come check the
system, make any needed repairs/adjustments, and service the system. This
will remove all doubt if its right or not. Ask your servicing technician
about a prefered customer service agreement.
No, its not gonna be free, and I highly discourage using the lowest priced
contractor. The required training, education and experience are not free,
nor is the truck, nor or the spare parts inventory on the truck...for that
matter, the techs time isn't free either. Small companies are a good thing
because you know that the teck will most likely either be the owner or a
very well trained tech, as opposed to the large companies where you never
know who your gonna get.
In a non-union world, where there is no actual apprenticeship or journeyman
levels. Master level is achieved through passing SBCCI, NATE, or other
recognized equivelancy exams. Master level is *REQUIRED* to even qualify to
take the SBCCI Contractor exam. Here, the big companies only have one or 2
that are certified Masters, and most of the rest of their "techs" are
anybody that can fog a mirror. With *legitimate* small companies, its a
different matter entirely.
No..Stormy is better because we can make a lot more money mopping up
behind him..:-p Actually Stormy may be a lot better then his press
releases here indicate. He hasn't been shot dead by an irate homeowner,
so who is to say?
No Nooner is better just because--and it dont matter a bit if that he cant
find anyone thats still breathing thats willing to work alongside of him for
The joke is on all of us if we dont all keep a pluggin away man.
Profound shit and sad but true.
Nooner does service his area--he could be the ONLY BIDDER but so far he
hasnt posted any pics of gold ear rings and some BMW service vehicles.
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